Look 1 from the Celine Men’s Summer 2023 telegraphed everything Hedi Slimane wanted to say with the collection: a new exciting way to dress up for night.
Hedi Slimane clearly knows what excites his audience of customers — something sexy, something everyday but elevated (his jeans have been a consistent shopfloor hit), and something youthful without relying on the usual visual tropes of something youthful. This consistency that touches across the universes of Celine however, is what gives the French House some cache.
One does not go to Celine to reinvent what he’s already working with (though he most certainly can). One goes to Celine to build up on what he already has — the picking of pieces that integrate seamlessly within his existing wardrobe. Some could be a little more difficult to work with (the spangly jackets from the Celine Men’s Summer 2023 show) but then again, Slimane himself has already created a visual language for the Celine customer. It’s a look that comprises of a great jacket, a simple top (or sans, sometimes), a pair of jeans and a pair of boots. So sublime is its simplicity that sometimes, shopping at Celine becomes a thankfully brainless task.
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The collection is called Dysfunctional Bauhaus, a tribute to the Palais de Tokyo’s Art Deco architecture.
While the Celine Men’s Summer 2023 show involved the universe of Slimane’s personal interests — artworks from David Weiss, Alyss Estay, and Renata Petersen with the soundtrack scored by Gustaf — here, our favourite 10 looks that telegraph the Celine man of the season.
Look 12: The already insouciant look of a leather trench coat gets some slouchy-sexiness with a dramatic drop shoulder.
Look 14: Every graphic t-shirt Slimane has done for the house becomes a collectible. The version from the Celine Men’s Summer 2023 show has a print of the show’s name itself.
Look 17: Everybody, the it-item of next season — the blingy coat that masquerades as a bathrobe.
Look 27: A new variation of the Celine denim cut the House is famous for. This season, it’s worn even lower on the waist but sliced off so to reveal the top half of boots.
Look 37: Chaps on the runway. ‘Nuff said.
Look 41: Something so frumpy like the grandma jacket (notice we’re not using pa) becomes elevated with some jewels. The Slimane styling trick though would be to pattern clash it for full effect.
Look 48: The leopard print shirt and denim vest get their rock-chic appeal heightened with an almost x-ray print and spangles, respectively.
Look 60: The brassiness of the Celine man’s sexuality becomes emboldened with the inclusion of an age-old item — the fishnet cropped top.
Look 65: Spangly on top, shiny on the bottom – the dual rules of sexy summer dressing.
Look 67: A short proposition on shorts at the Celine Men’s Summer 2023 show — they should hit a palm’s width upwards from one’s knee cap.
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