The Cosmic Cruiser collection by creative director Hedi Slimane brings about the whimsical, chaotic tensions of 14 artists. We speak to four of them about this iconic Celine Homme collaboration. Photography by Celine by Hedi Slimane.
The Celine Homme Spring/Summer ‘22 collection, Cosmic Cruiser, first sat us along the Mediterranean Sea on the Grand Gaou Island, south of France. By now, Hedi Slimane’s design style is seen as provocative and youthful – a step away from his predecessor and a style trait for the house that the French designer has been honing amongst audiences.
A peculiar form of romance lives within this collection, completed with 14 artists who have each contributed their artistic flair to these ready-to-wear pieces. As of late, Slimane is known for choosing collaborators who embody inner turmoil and embrace stark contrasts from the usual pristine, careful disposition of high fashion. Slimane is not exactly subtle — each print or design contributed by the artists is an overt call for attention.
Anne Mackenzie (based in New York) began her commission from Celine Homme in a rather organic, surprised manner — an Instagram message or an email from a brand representative asking to collaborate for a show, and for some of them, this marks their first foray into luxury fashion. Her stand-out design, PLEASE DREAM OF ME is an ode to a generation who grew up in the digital age. “We are some of the first to display our most vulnerable thoughts and feelings online with total strangers. To some people that’s crazy, but to me it sounds like a huge celebration of life. Sharing your feelings isn’t seen as shameful [but strong].”
Mackenzie’s contribution to Celine Homme seems to convey a double-edged, wistful cry for help. “When I drew this, I was in a relationship that challenged me and fundamentally changed the way I look at all of my relationships. I was a very depressed romantic, and I would easily give into feelings of jealousy and intense longing. I still have the same feelings but now I can peer at them from a distance and ask myself, do I really feel that way or is my brain grasping at love I’m afraid to lose?”
I wrote “Please dream of me” because I couldn’t be near my partner for a time, and I craved for some way to connect even if it meant I had to see them in dreams. Repeating the phrase captured the intensity of the longing I felt at the time. I felt like I could just keep repeating it into infinity. — Anne Mackenzie.
Sara Yukiko Mon’s “Lucky Lover” black enamel pendant necklace in sterling silver.
Another artist who so freely wears her heart on her skin is Sara Yukiko Mon, the brain and hands behind the LUCKY LOVER design — taken from an original drawing that she worked on for a previous project which offered an outlet for Mon and her partner to unpack the intrinsic feelings that come up in love. “The artwork was inspired by text on a sign I saw. I liked the ring of it, and thought it would be fun as a charm-like drawing.”
Her irresistible, bubblegum-pop text looks like a wonderful addition to a pop star’s wardrobe, and the sterling silver chain necklace adaptation is favoured by the artist herself. This seeming influence is not far off from how she feels about the rock-rebellion spirit of the Celine Cosmic Cruiser, either. Perhaps this was what Slimane hoped for when approaching new and underground artists — a smooth burst of idealism, and the creation of something visceral and instinctual.
“I love pairing unexpected pieces — vintage band tees with my favourite designers; sweet and girly with my boyfriend’s black metal tees. In my art practice, I turn elements from my imagination into reality and push myself to make works that are anything but ordinary! I like sprinkling my flare to everything around me to create my own unique world,” says Mon.
“I can see someone like Zoë Kravitz rocking this one!” — Sara Yukiko Mon.
Scott Daniel Ellison’s “Cripy Smiley” oversized Teddy Jacket.
Living up to Slimane’s raw edge, Celine Homme roped in Scott Daniel Ellison — a great accompaniment to the motocross riders (branded with Celine, no less) in the Spring/Summer ’22 runway — an artist known for tapping into the oddities. “There’s a long history of visual artists working in fashion and I’ve always found it inspiring,” says Ellison, when asked about future possibilities of becoming more involved in this avenue. His CRIPY SMILEY and WHITE SNAKE designs must spark a chord with goth and punk lovers, who would love to sport these classic misfit pieces from the Celine Cosmic Cruiser collection.
I started with the idea of creating a ghost of sorts. I’ve always admired Celine and often use punk and fashion iconography in my work. I think my interests and some of the recurring motifs blended well with their style and vision. — Scott Daniel Ellison.
Amy Dorian’s “Brain On 2020” wool jacquard cardigan.
That is not all to the experience of collaborating with Celine Homme. As artist Amy Dorian puts it, “I was recruited to contribute to the Cosmic Cruiser collection by someone who works for Hedi Slimane. They asked specifically for the Brain on 2020 drawing, and to submit anything else I wanted – including patterns. The experience itself was relatively mysterious, which made things exciting. Nothing at all was revealed until the video for the runway show was released, so all of the garments and artist features were a total surprise.”
Dorian’s work is fascinating. The artist views luxury brands as functional rather than decor. “Especially ready wear. Often, the pieces are good investments. I’m happy to design for anyone or anything that is innovative or harbours groundbreaking vision,” she shares. Dorian’s brainchild, a studio called RARE BOOTS that is focused on creating functional design pieces, arose from not wanting to charge people for art if it was purely for decor or luxury instead of a necessity.
Celine Homme’s Cosmic Cruiser certainly displays an evocative approach to fashion — giving rise to greater possibilities of merging the abstract with tactile and whilst in the process of sustaining its cultural influence, the house makes room for new voices to enter the scene. As Slimane’s rock style continues to impress upon audiences, the direction towards injecting optimism and powerful performativity seems to be setting the path for new generations to come.
“I’ve been interested in experimenting with pattern-making. I submitted a compilation sheet of nine different nature-inspired patterns that felt like Celine to me. I love anything deliberate and intentional that can harness chaos to bring out its beauty and I think Cosmic Cruiser really illustrates that well.” — Amy Dorian.
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