There is nothing quiet about Brunello Cucinelli – not the fashion label, and certainly not the man it is named after. The fashion media tends to oversimplify and condense complex ideas into snap judgments and snappier headlines. A few years ago, the Internet collectively decided that ostentatious displays of wealth were gauche, and that the nouveau riche should feel embarrassed about making them. Instead, it leant into a logo-less vision of linen, beige and rectangular dress watches as signifiers of good taste – dubbed “quiet luxury”. Brunello Cucinelli and his plush, impeccably crafted, often neutral sartorial offerings were often unwillingly trussed into this bucket.

If you have read interviews with Cucinelli, you will know that the 73-year-old Italian is anything but hushed. He possesses a booming exuberance, exemplified by his pull-worthy quotes, including this gem from his granddaughter: “When I start working at your company, the first thing I’m gonna do is fire you on the spot.” Another banger is “When you wake up in the morning, do you really think, ‘Today I want to be quiet? No! You want to be chic.”

Cucinelli is vocal and passionate about his craft and guiding principles. In the creative field where Al is deeply frowned upon, causing some brands to tiptoe around their stance and discreet use, Cucinelli stands 10 toes down – even launching an Al-powered e-commerce site. But he does it on his own terms. “Al must be governed with humanity, measure, and balance – complete with a sense of responsibility and courage,” he says. “This is why I prefer to speak of Human Artificial Intelligence, and I see many opportunities for collaboration between the know-how of human beings and this extraordinary new frontier of operational knowledge.” Cucinelli refers to Solomeo Al – the HQ-based research centre focused on the creative, scientific, and technological applications of Al – and its products, including Callimacus, a chatbot that offers a fluid, personalised brand experience through users’ questions and intentions. What is unmistakably human in the process is his belief that Al can only analyse, calculate, synthesise, suggest and execute; while human intelligence possesses feelings, dreams, desires and the ability to sense and create. He does not look at Al technology as a means of substitution, but more as an opportunity to enhance the human experience.

It is thus unsurprising to see Cucinelli’s frustration with catch-all labels like “quiet luxury”. The term essentially flattens the thought processes and rigorous handiwork involved, rendering his designs as products of a fleeting trend. In fact, compared to him championing Al technology, it feels more dehumanising to strip the creative journey down to just a facsimile that disregards the artisanship and material considerations involved. Some designers shroud themselves in mystery, preferring to speak through their collections and perhaps a brief elucidation at the end of their shows. But when there are artists like Cucinelli who practise an open-door policy with his inspirations and operations – sharing enough material to release Brunello: The Gracious Visionary, a documentary film about his life – you immediately recognise Cucinelli’s approach to his artistry is led by pride, passion and an intrinsic grasp of the human spirit. Men’s Folio speaks with the maestro to get a glimpse of his vision and the inspirations that guide him.

YOU OFTEN CITE GREEK MYTHOLOGY, PHILOSOPHY AND MOTHER NATURE IN YOUR INTERVIEWS. HOW DO THESE INFORM YOU ABOUT LIFE AND WORK?

The classical world, first in its ancient Greco-Roman form, and later through he Humanist Renaissance, remains for me not only endlessly fascinating, but also a constant source of inspiration.

The philosophers and their thoughts, alongside the lessons we can draw from myths, spirituality and Mother Nature herself are, for me, like companions in conversation, with whom I can question and engage in a daily dialogue. They speak to me, offer me suggestions, and continually inspire new reflections and actions.

So my days begin with a thought that always takes me back to the Emperor Hadrian, who said: “I felt responsible for the beauty of the world.”

DESPITE THE UMBRAGE FROM CERTAIN SECTIONS OF SOCIETY, DID YOU ENJOY CHRISTOPHER NOLAN’S ADAPTATION OF THE ODYSSEY?

Nolan’s film is an original work, full of evocative ideas, but one to be seen only after reading The Odyssey. Through Odysseus himself, his wanderings and all that he experiences along the way, the poem still has something to say to the human beings of our time.

In other words, one should not expect a straightforward screen adaptation of the great epic, but rather a highly original motion picture that takes its inspiration from an immortal text whose power to fascinate us has remained undiminished through the centuries.

DO YOU RELY HEAVILY ON INTUITION IN LIFE? WHEN IT COMES TO RUNNING A BUSINESS, DO YOU SEE IT AS SOMETHING MUTUALLY EXCLUSIVE OF COLD, HARD DATA? HOW DO YOU BALANCE THEM?

Intuition is a very important faculty, and perhaps we would do well to listen to it with great attention. In my own work, for example, it was intuition that gave me the courage to take a risk 40 years ago and colour such a delicate fibre as cashmere.

When it comes to running the Solomeo Enterprise, of course a great deal of attention is rightly given to research, analysis and all the different factors that help us make better decisions and steer our work in the right direction, but without ever sacrificing intuition, genius or creativity. Finding the right balance between them is the true secret.

YOU REBUKED THE ASSOCIATION WITH QUIET LUXURY WHEN IT WAS ALL THE RAGE. HOWEVER, I’M CURIOUS WHETHER THAT ASSOCIATION REACHED ANY NEW MEANINGFUL AUDIENCES?

I have never been particularly interested in “fashions”, but I have always focused on taste, the most refined essence of fashion, and interpreting beauty in a contemporary way – balancing tradition and innovation. I believe in a gracious, gentle form of luxury, expressed through chic sportswear that has become one of the distinctive features of our collections. This is another reason why I think it is so important to “listen” to the people who wear Brunello Cucinelli and understand what draws them to it.

HOW HAVE THE YOUTH INSPIRED YOU, IF AT ALL?

Young people have always been a source of inspiration for me, not only because of the way they express their own generational taste, but also, and above all, because of their dreams. My most heartfelt wish is that they never stop pursuing those dreams, even when they seem impossible to achieve.

I also find it particularly inspiring that young people are increasingly choosing garments with supply chains that can be traced, complete with production that meets certain standards of dignity and sustainability. This has been at the heart of what we do ever since 1978, when the story of the dream of Solomeo began.

HOW HAS YOUR PERSONAL STYLE CHANGED OVER THE YEARS? DO YOU STILL SEE TRACES OF THE YOUNGER BRUNELLO WHO LIKES JIMI HENDRIX AND THE BEATLES? HAS THAT, IN TURN, INFORMED HOW THE DESIGN LANGUAGE HAS EVOLVED AT THE BRAND ITSELF?

My personal style, I would say, is continually inspired by the great themes of humanity, which also serve as a source of inspiration for the style of our fashion house.

Like everyone else, I have naturally gone through my own journey of growing and changing, but my passions have always stayed with me. They guide me from day to day, and very often a passage from a book that I return to, or a song that I used to love listening to with my wife Federica when we were young, will light the way.

WHO ELSE IS ON YOUR PLAYLIST THESE DAYS?

How could I not have the great masters of classical music on my playlist? Then there are our daughters and grandchildren, who are always introducing us to new voices and new sounds. Here too, I believe in finding a harmonious relationship between the classical and the contemporary.

Our dear Academy Award-winning maestro Nicola Piovani, along with the great Maestro Giuseppe Tornatore, who directed the film, composed some extraordinary music for the film of my life, Brunello: the Gracious Visionary, and I am very fond of it. More recently, we have taken to enjoying the neoclassical and electronic sounds of the talented Italian pianist Dario Faini, from the Marche region, who performs under the name Dardust. We liked his work so much that we chose him for the soundtrack of our international campaign #BeYourChange, which was intended to convey a strong message of trust and hope to the younger generations.

HOW WOULD YOU ADVISE YOUNG PEOPLE TO BUILD A WARDROBE THAT STANDS THE TEST OF TIME INSTEAD? IT’S ALSO INTERESTING TO KNOW THAT SOME YOUNG PEOPLE FEEL THE PRESSURE OF HAVING TO “RUSH” OR “GROW” INTO A SPECIFIC STYLE.

There are two real tests of quality here, and both are fundamental: the quality of the raw materials and the quality of the entire production process.

To young people in particular, I would say: do not let yourselves be caught up in the rush. I think that applies to every part of life, from relationships to work, and even to what I would call “good politics”. The best choices always come from taking the time to reflect, to observe, to discuss things with others, and to have the genuine courage to make your own decisions.

WHEN IT COMES TO TAILORING AT BRUNELLO CUCINELLI, DOES FORM OR FUNCTION COME FIRST?

I would like to answer that with a little remark which says a great deal: our highly skilled tailoring is about creating beautiful forms that also feel right to wear. And this can only be achieved through doing things properly, at every level, from the creative to the production process, from the selection of the raw material all the way through to the finished garment, and including the way we communicate it.

FOR SOMEONE NEW TO BRUNELLO CUCINELLI, WHAT’S ONE PIECE TO BEGIN THEIR JOURNEY IF NOT A CASHMERE JUMPER?

We began as a company with cashmere sweaters, and I still carry with me, both in my mind and in my heart, the image of those first six jumpers, with their soft lines and delicate colours. I placed them in the hands of Alessio, the master dyer, who could hardly believe what I was asking of him. I had to persuade him to take that first daring step and try colouring cashmere.

IS IT ULTIMATELY PUTTING HUMANS FIRST INSTEAD OF MACHINES?

For us in Solomeo – and I say this with consideration to both the E=enterprise and the people who bring our little village to life – we believe in the human being and have always placed the dignity of their life, work and quality leisure time at the centre of what we do.

This is why, after 5.30pm and on weekends, no one is allowed to work; it is also why emails should not be sent indiscriminately and, whenever possible, it is always better to pick up the phone and speak directly to one another. I would like each one, after work, to be able to cultivate their own passions, devote time to those they love, and perhaps also lend a helping hand to those who are more in need.

WHEN IT COMES TO THE BUSINESS PART, I REALLY RESONATE WITH YOUR CONCEPT OF HUMANISTIC CAPITALISM. WHY DO YOU THINK NOT MANY COMPANIES ARE ADOPTING THIS APPROACH?

The great Pericles used to say: “At Athens, we do things this way.” We say: “At Solomeo, we do things this way; we try to do things this way.” I am not one to judge the choices made by others. What matters to me is staying true to the commitments I have made. In a way, this has become one of the guiding principles behind what I like to call Humanistic Capitalism and Human Sustainability. We have chosen the path of ethics.

WHAT IS IT LIKE WORKING WITH FAMILY?

It is wonderful and stimulating. Federica has always shared her views with me, and she has passed on to me her great taste and unmistakable sense of style. When I think of my dear father, who knew nothing about cashmere either, I believe that in his own way he too made an invaluable contribution to my work, through his honesty and his constant reminder to remain a decent, good person.And our daughters never stop looking for new ideas, innovating and bringing fresh creativity to what we do. I find that truly fascinating. Now it is also time to listen to what our grandchildren have to say, because they see the world through new eyes.