Ten years of work for every minute on stage — a Chinese adage that reflects the nuance of the Hermès Spring Summer 2021 collection. Its presentation was showcased in a live performance entitled “Hors-Champ” — which loosely translates to off-camera in the French luxury Maison’s native language .
Imagined in artistic collaboration with Cyril Teste, the live performance documented the intimate backstage moments before a runway show — dressers preparing the models, stage managers giving art directions, models biding their time and artistic director of Hermès men’s universe, Véronique Nichanian setting the final touches to the looks.
“Though the current situation [5 July 2020] forbids a live audience, spectators will be able to see backstage, and thus share in those moments of creative truth. Circumstances have forced me to pare down, both in conception of the collection and in choice for this presentation. For me, these constraints are an opportunity and incentive to be inventive, to research, to recreate. It is quite rewarding to hone in on the essential, and to distill, refine, sharpen. It all pointed in one direction, the one I wanted to follow for this collection: simplicity, nonchalance, lightness,” shared Nichanian in a conversation with Teste about the presentation.
31 years in Hermès and Nichanian still possesses the unmissable passion in her eyes — the satisfaction she exudes when sending her looks to walk across the hall of the Hermès workshops at Pantin, Paris. The ease in the models’ gaits that comes from the lightness of the Hermès Spring Summer 2021 collection was also evident — Nichanian and the Hermès atelier’s expert manipulation of the fabrics were so apparent that it jumped through the screen.
This was a tall order given that warm fabrics like leather and knit made appearances for the Hermès Spring Summer 2021 collection, but Nichanian made it a non-issue. The blue metis goatskin jacket had the fabric sliced so thin that it functions like an overshirt. Similarly, the lightweight treatment of leather is seen on a grey-blue technical calfskin hooded jacket with a reversible fluorescent lime green Plume canvas that is water-repellent too. Sleeveless knits and knit sweaters were given the English ribbing treatment — the technique was chosen to give a fuller and thicker result yet summery mouliné cotton was used.
Nonetheless, linen and cotton remained mainstays of the Hermès Spring Summer 2021 collection. Tops — suit jackets, blousons and shirts — are imagined as striped summer shirts and are effortlessly layered on each other. The message of being in the moment without restrictions brings forth the limitless styling where zipped overshirts are layered under shirts while three-button suit jackets paired with mandarin-collar shirts are sophisticatedly tucked into straight pants without looking frumpy. These out-of-the-box layering of streamlined silhouettes can only be achieved from sure hands.
Unencumbered also describes the Hermès Spring Summer 2021 collection. Collars are made loose — V-neck, cowl neck and mandarin shirt collars — while pants are cut straight and roomy with elastic waistbands. A unique detail comes through a secret pocket under the lapel of the three-button suit jacket so mobile phones could be safely and conveniently stashed away.
The accessories for the Hermès Spring Summer ’21 collection are likewise well-considered. House signature travel bag, the Haut à courroies Cargo bag is rendered in H canvas and Evercalf calfskin to allow for dreaming of a time when travels are allowed again. The Slim d’Hermès watch in stainless steel and strap in Barénia calfskin was chosen to feature in the collection with its refined aesthetics and lightweight exteriors. Bracelets are given snap-hook clasp, belts are designed in canvas or rope, and the choice footwear is a pair of comfortable sandals.
While Nichanian has chosen to pare down for the Hermès Spring Summer 2021 collection with a colour palette consisting of mainly blues and greys, fluorescent colours are also injected to excite. The serene colour theory is showcased in the La Danse des chevaux (the dance of horses) print on cotton shirts and short-sleeve sweaters. Details are not meant to shout — sketched chaine d’ancre links are weaved into the stripes of tops — so that wearers are excited to discover them with every wear.
It is easy to dismiss something “simple” but making it flawless can be a feat. Nichanian’s pure intentions to present the Hermès Spring Summer 2021 collection in a novel fashion — for wearers to experience unencumbered, lightweight and timeless clothing, and truly be in the here and now — pushed her to perfect simplicity.
Her parting sentiments tell it best — “I have always believed it takes time to create clothes that last, that age well, that are more than merely functional and for which we feel real affection. My work has always focused on form, material and colour. The frantic aspect of fashion does not interest me in the slightest.”
Once you’re reading about the Hermès Spring Summer 2021 collection, click here to catch up with our April 2021 issue.
RELATED ARTICLES
I’ll Meet You When the Flowers Bloom at Night
