The Alchemy of Watches - Men's Folio
Time, Editor's Pick

The Alchemy of Watches

  • By Asaph Low

Similar to mixologists concocting a cocktail, watchmakers dabble their art in watchmaking alchemy — creating watches constructed from a mix of metals. Steel and gold (two-tone) watches was the first of its kind when Rolex first released its two-tone watch in the 1930s, its interpretation of sports luxury alchemy. These days watchmakers continue to experiment with material combinations from unconventional pairings to redefining the tried and tested pairings.

Pictured Above: Zenith Defy Inventor — Alchemy of Light-Weight

Mixing high-tech materials has been in the Zenith Defy collection DNA since it was relaunched in 2017. The Defy Inventor challenges watchmaking traditions by incorporating high-tech materials into watch cases and using high-beat movements. Zenith’s alchemical experiments for light-weight combinations resulted in a watch case made with titanium and featuring an Aeronith bezel, the world’s lightest aluminium composite material. This potent mix makes the Defy Inventor feel feather light on the wrist while ensuring maximum strength and toughness. Powered by the proprietary Zenith Oscillator, the ultrahigh beat mechanism beats at 18 hertz while a normal automatic mechanism beats at 4 hertz.

Tudor Black Bay Chrono S&G — Alchemy of Contemporary-Vintage Aesthetic 

The Tudor Black Bay Chrono S&G (steel & gold) launched during BaselWorld 2019 was credited for getting the two-tone fever in full swing, after the 2017 release of the Tudor Heritage Black Bay Steel and Gold. Tudor defined the alchemy of vintage sports watches with the Tudor Black Bay Chrono S&G — a blend of modern sports watch paired with vintage gold elements reminiscent of vintage chronographs of yesteryear. The Tudor Black Bay Chrono S&G features a stainless steel case with a gold tachymetre bezel, gold chronograph pushers and gold sub-dials set against a rich black dial. 

Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra — Alchemy of Luxury-Sporty Aesthetic 

Omega’s alchemy of luxurious seafaring is a watch that is both sporty and sophisticated. The Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra’s combination of stainless steel case and 18K Sedna gold bezel is all about simple refinement. The triangular indexes are taken from diving watches of the past, while the silvery dial features horizontal stripes that replicate the wooden decks of luxury sailboats. The Omega Seamaster is powered by the adventure-ready Co-Axial Master Chronometer calibre 8900.

Montblanc 1858 Automatic Dual Time — Alchemy of Rugged Utility

On first glance, the glint of the Montblanc 1858 Automatic Dual Time bezel can be easily mistaken for gold, it is in fact bronze. Montblanc is credited as the first watchmaker to combine stainless steel and bronze on a single watch. A distinguishing hallmark of bronze is the patina that it develops over time, making it unique to the wearer. Powered by the automatic caliber MB29.19, Montblanc showcases the alchemy of ruggedness with a travel watch that is sure to hold memories of adventurous road trips taken with its owner.

Tissot Seastar 1000 Powermatic 80 Silicium — Alchemy of Robustness 

Dive watches of old are characterised by stainless steel cases paired with a steel dive bezel. Tissot presents the alchemy of robustness with the Tissot Seastar 1000 Powermatic 80 Silicium — a representation of modern day dive watch with its stainless steel case and ceramic bezel. Ceramic is prized for its highly scratch resistant properties and whether you’re desk-diving or out for a proper dive trip, you can be assured the Tissot Seastar returns unscathed.