Shimmer Hour at Watches & Wonders 2025: Jewellery Watches - Men's Folio

Shimmer Hour at Watches & Wonders 2025: Jewellery Watches

From Cartier to Piaget, Van Cleef & Arpels to Patek Philippe, see here a curation of the precious timepieces that captured the new sparkling spirit of innovation at Watches and Wonders 2025.

Chanel J12 BLEU

In a history-first, the CHANEL J12 is made in blue matte ceramic — powerful, sensual, deep, and unmistakably a hue representative of CHANEL’s presence in fashion, beauty and jewellery’s history books. The exclusive colour of the J12 BLEU is the result of five years of research by the CHANEL Watch Manufacture, the velvety ceramic scratchproof, highly resistant and durable, after being hand-polished for eight hours. Here, the openwork blue dial featuring the flying Tourbillon of the J12 BLEU is magnified by a 65-facet solitaire diamond — Gabrielle CHANEL’s favourite stone — and set with 34 bright blue baguette-cut sapphires.

Cartier Tressage

Play this year for Cartier looks like distinct volumes and a curious mix of materials — the two key features that spotlight the maison’s most recent contribution to the watch universe — the Cartier Tressage. This rendition of the timepiece spotlights the elegant juxtaposition of opulent stones and smooth calfskin leather — a striking sight, sculptural in every way. A soft navy blue strap sits snugly between two dazzling braids and a rectangular snow-set dial, both beaming with the striking shine of brilliant-cut diamonds that do more than adorn.

Bvlgari Serpenti Aeterna

What better time to transform Bvlgari’s Serpenti than during the Year of the Snake on the Chinese calendar? In a single sweeping gesture, the Bvlgari Serpenti Aeterna presents a never-fluid statement that is part-timepiece and part-jewellery: a tapered and intense open bangle with a snow-set dial of precious gemstones, extending along the spine to the very tip of the tail. On the white gold version, the oversized diamonds create an especially enchanting three-dimensional effect; a mesmerising homage to and rebirth of the revered Serpenti.

Patek Philippe Nautilus

Patek Philippe has bejewelled the Nautilus in various ways over the years, but never quite like this. Rows upon rows of diamonds dazzle from the rounded octagonal bezel and dial — stout baguette-cut stones encircle a dial snow-set with smaller brilliant-cut ones, while elegantly slim baguette diamonds take up positions as hour markers. It doesn’t stop there. The central links are also set with baguette-cut diamonds, while the main links feature regular rows of brilliant-cut diamonds. With a total of 1,285 brilliant-cut and 195 baguette-cut diamonds, this stunning timepiece is not a figment of imagination but fleshed out in real life.

Van Cleef & Arpels’ Lady Arpels Baldes Amoureux Automate

In recognition of Van Cleef & Arpels’ birthplace, the new Pont des Amoureux watch celebrates the City of Lights in its latest iteration — the Lady Arpels Baldes Amoureux Automate. This act of the celestial ballet recreates the romantic atmosphere of a guinguette — an open-air dance cafe often found in Parisian suburbs in the 19th century — and sees the automaton movement bringing a couple closer together for a kiss at noon and midnight. The key marvel is the use of grisaille enamel — a rare traditional métier d’art developed in the 16th century to evoke the chiaroscuro of a starlit night. It requires some 40 hours of work and a dozen kiln firings per dial to achieve the desired result. Just observe the white-to-blue and yellow lantern dots and you’ll know why this lovely timepiece is worth marvelling at beyond its depiction of time.

Piaget Limelight Gala Precious

Piaget’s two new Limelight Gala watches revive a hand-engraved wavy motif across the dial and bracelet, highlighting a sobriquet from Piaget’s earlier days — House of Gold — and its masterful hold of colour-play. In this Limelight Gala Precious, the asymmetrical lugs that extend from each side are decked in a gradient of gemstones that range from diamonds to pale pink sapphires to deep red rubies, framing a rich shade of burgundy that draws from the opulent gowns and deep “pigeon’s blood” shade of the hedonistic 1970s red carpets. Precious, opulent and decadent, this timepiece demonstrates Piaget’s unrelenting pursuit of luxury.

Once you are done with this story, click here to catch up with our May 2025 issue.