A Second Look At the Patek Philippe Cubitus - Men's Folio

A Second Look At the Patek Philippe Cubitus

After an initial reportage on the Patek Philippe Cubitus, we take another look at the manufacture’s first model in 25 years.

By the time anyone reads this, a few weeks would have passed since Patek Philippe’s launch of the Cubitus. Considering that the last ever model Patek Philippe launched was nearly three decades ago, this was a seismic move from the Genevan watch manufacture. There was buzz, lots of buzz, surrounding the release, as various media outlets broke the news. Even if one is not a watch person, one would have at least caught a glimpse of the Cubitus somehow. With the dust settling a little, we can look at the collection again and consider some opinions gathered from Thierry Stern, president of Patek Philippe, during the group interview.

The Cubitus marks Patek Philippe’s bold re-entry into introducing completely new designs — a break from a 25-year hiatus since the Twenty~4. For Thierry Stern, this was both a challenge and a personal mission. “We haven’t done many square watches in Patek Philippe’s history, and I felt it was missing from our collection,” said Stern, who had the clear vision of creating a square watch that is both sporty and elegant. The Cubitus’ square shape honours the manufacture’s back catalogue while simultaneously embodying what a modern Patek Philippe could be.

However, for many, a significant amount of that intrigue lies in its similarity to the Nautilus, Patek’s iconic porthole-shaped creation from 1976. Stern acknowledges some likenesses, chief among them an embossed horizontal dial and integrated bracelet, but insists the Cubitus was intended to stand alone. “I wanted it to have its own DNA and power, even if people see a resemblance,” said Stern. This balancing act between the new and the old is representative of Patek Philippe’s philosophy, enabling the Cubitus to be integrated into the company’s product line with ease while simultaneously creating its own identity.

Beyond the apparent Nautilus references, the Cubitus Ref. 5822P conceals the seriousness of its design and technical complexity. This platinum timepiece stands 9.6mm thick and is slender enough to retain a decorous elegance typical of Patek Philippe, making it comfortable on most wrist profiles.

As underlined by Stern, it has been a challenge to keep the watch slim, achievable with the complex instantaneous grand date, day, and moon phase indication driven by the calibre 240 PS CI J LU. “The grand date complication was a technical challenge and was on the level of grand complications,” Stern further emphasised. That attention to detail is emblematic of the craftsmanship for which the watches from Patek Philippe are renowned.

Adding to the intrigue, the strategic pricing of the stainless steel Cubitus models offers a new entry point into the Patek Philippe family. “We will never offer watches at €5,000 or €10,000. That’s not our segment,” Stern pointed out, characterising the move as one of expanding access without compromising quality and brand equity. The Cubitus thus represents a carefully measured approach to broadening Patek Philippe’s appeal while maintaining its exclusivity.

Looking ahead, Stern hinted that the Cubitus is only the beginning of a new line, and there are already considerations for variations in size and style, ensuring that this bold square design will continue to evolve. “The 45mm model is just the start,” Stern noted, setting the stage for what could be a transformative chapter in Patek Philippe’s storied history. For now, the Cubitus stands as a testament to the brand’s ability to innovate while staying true to its roots — a truly rare feat in haute horlogerie.

Once you are done with this story, click here to catch up with our December/January 2025 issue.