Asaph Low (AL): Hey Stuart, have you ever wondered why watches are mostly round?
Stuart Danker (SD): I was about to ask you that. It seems to be the most efficient way to measure time, and is the easiest shape for watch hands to traverse across. But the more important question now is, are form watches seeing a resurgence? And why?
AL: It’s thanks to Patek Philippe and its polarising Cubitus. I’ve never seen such levels of furore over a release. Obviously, there are aesthetic similarities to the Nautilus, but the collective impact has firmly put form watches back on the radar. However, let’s not discount the fact that brands like Cartier, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Van Cleef & Arpels and MB&F, to name a few, are already strong in this field.
SD: Agreed. You’re speaking to someone who’s already a fan of form watches from the past, especially of the four-sided variety. What newer form watches have caught your attention? I’ve been intrigued by the Reflection de Cartier.
AL: Staying on Cartier, the Baignore, Coussin, Pebble and Tortue are other prime examples that demonstrate the wealth and richness of its design archives.
SD: Cartier really embraces the form watch, doesn’t it? Almost every design does not adhere to the traditional round or circular dimensions. The Crash is one outstanding example. Then again, the zanier designs from recent years have also been quite the eye-openers.
AL: Such as?
SD: Hublot Murakami Rainbow. We’ve seen the flower designs on the dial, but I personally have not seen a flower-shaped case before.
AL: That was a jolt in the system and points towards how conventional watchmaking has been and continues to be. Hublot’s other projects with Samuel Ross and Daniel Arsham, while not in the same vein as the one with Murakami, are highly avant-garde too, especially when we thought we’d seen it all in watches.
AL: Is it safe to say that form watches stem from two schools of thought or references: “Traditional or heritage” brands that reference their archives and revive them and the daring, independent brands that push ahead with forms that are not defined or exist yet?
SD: Thus comes the money question. Which do you foresee happening in 2025?
AL: Perhaps a more daring approach towards a form watch, because the clients have been micro-conditioned over the past three years by different brands to be more open to form watches. The retro, vintage hype also has a hand in this movement. So yes, more form watches on brand catalogues this year. You?
SD: With the amount of avant-garde watches making the news this year, more unique designs will surface in the near future, beyond the traditional squares, triangles or tonneaus. I suspect we’ll still see a lot of rectangles or squares for 2025, though.
AL: I’m advocating for more cushion-shaped watches because, in terms of fit, they’re the most forgiving across male and female, large and small wrists. Also, some shapes just don’t work if they’re too big, and similarly for others if they’re small.
SD: I actually wonder why there aren’t more cushion-shaped watches. Vintage Heuer Autavia comes to mind, but Vacheron Constantin’s Historiques American 1921 is a great low-key cushion watch, too. I would love for more modern models to adopt this silhouette.
AL: You’ll have a constant supply with the Panerai Radiomir. [laughs] On a serious note, the Hermès H08 is a wildly successful cushion-shaped watch, and bonus points for being a sports watch, too!
SD: Some watchmakers might be hesitant to try certain shapes because other brands have staked their claims on certain aesthetics. That’s why I think brands who wish to push beyond round watches will tend to go the daring route instead of these more traditional shapes.
AL: What do you think is holding them back? Fear of backlash or taking the safer route without risk?
SD: I think there’s this danger of looking like an homage, no matter how hard they try to market it differently. Try as you might; you just can’t make a rectangular watch and wrest the prominence away from brands like Cartier and Jaeger-LeCoultre. Another example: can anyone do the triangle better than Hamilton’s Ventura?
AL: Unfortunately that’s how things are these days. So if we were to close this topic, what’s your one hot pick for Watches & Wonders? Mine would be square or rectangle watches with rounded edges for that softer, elegant, chic appeal that ties in with the retro craze.
SD: I predict traditional form watches from older watch brands and more experimental shapes from the younger ones.
SD: Stone dials! It’s an interesting way to tackle watch design without changing much else. The meteorite dial Rolex GMT-Master II, for instance, differs wildly from its normal counterparts. And I love what Piaget has been doing here, too.
AL: Piaget’s stone dial Andy Warhol and Polo are great pieces.
SD: Also, I’ve seen a lot of aventurine dials prior, but I think Bell & Ross really hit it out of the park when it chose aventurine for its new BR-03 Astro. There’s just something about aventurine and space that goes hand in hand.
AL: I don’t think anyone would’ve expected Bell & Ross to put out an aventurine dial. Kudos to the brand for making it work within its DNA and storytelling that doesn’t feel out of place.
SD: Stone dials have made the news quite a bit this past year. What do you think their appeal is?
AL: There’s this charm about it being naturally occurring. They lend a certain touch that a machine-made or even hand-engraved dial doesn’t possess.
SD: Admittedly, I’ve never sought out stone dials and never paid them much heed when looking to buy a watch. But there’s something about those smooth-looking stones — tiger’s eye or lapis lazuli — that’s so aesthetically pleasing.
AL: What you said earlier is very true; one small touch changes the look of a watch’s entirely.
SD: That “different look” can also be a downside, because I feel like some combinations just don’t go well together, like turquoise and gold. That’s my personal preference, of course.
AL: I get what you mean. Is colour theory important? If that’s the case, is white gold or stainless steel the safer choice? Do you know what would be interesting? Pairing a “high-tech” case material with a stone dial could be an interesting contrast between natural and artificial.
SD: So, ceramic and jade, for example?
AL: Imagine IWC’s Ceralume (luminous ceramic) case with a malachite dial. This would lead us down another rabbit hole, but perhaps it might be something worth exploring in the future.
SD: Anyway, let’s talk trends. What do you foresee in 2025?
AL: Well, more stone dials, for sure. I think it’ll start normalising and then trickle into the more “accessible” realm rather than remaining in the “unobtainable” box. I know it will be a tough ask for scarcity’s sake, but we’ve seen micro-brands pricing them low.
SD: I still think stone dials will remain in the realm of unobtainable for 2025, reserved as limited or special editions. Maybe we’ll see the normalisation in a couple of years, but I’m calling it a premium for this year.
SD: Let me start by saying that I’ve never been a fan of rainbow watches, especially on established watch models. However, the more experimental designs — like the Jacob & Co. Astronomia Revolution 4th Dimension and Hublot MP-15 Takashi Murakami — have warmed me to this concept in the past couple of years. I enjoy seeing the rainbow bejewelled bezels now.
AL: You mentioned Jacob & Co. there; it took a hard hitter to convince you. Interestingly, this effect you’re experiencing was coined by John Mayer during his discussion with François-Henry Bennahmias and Ben Clymer. Mayer said he “enjoys a watch that can win him over after a period of time and having his mind changed.”
SD: The strength of the rainbow concept lies in the execution. It’s when the watchmaker goes beyond just lining the case with colours that it becomes attractive. Maybe that’s why I became a convert. Bell & Ross’ BR03 Cyber Rainbow or the Zenith X Pantone watches are such examples.
AL: Are you a diamond-watch kind of guy? Not fully iced out, but subtly, on the hour indices or bezel. I’ve grown to appreciate diamond set bezels over the years; the turning point was when I strapped on the green Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5711/1300A-001 with a diamond set bezel.
SD: I’m all about the understated and subtle. But I’ve also opened up to precious stones in recent years. After having written about High Jewellery pieces, I realised that I wouldn’t mind wearing them, regardless of whether they’re marketed by gender. So, what are your thoughts on the rainbow trend?
AL: I believe the rainbow execution will continue to excel this year. After last year’s sapphire set iteration, Zenith did a wonderful job with the Chronomaster Sport Rainbow unveiled at LVMH Watch Week 2025. The LVMH brands seem to be pivoting toward this direction with Hublot’s usual offerings, Zenith’s new foray, TAG Heuer’s lab-grown diamonds and Bvlgari’s inherent flair in jewellery. I’d like to see Parmigiani trying it out with the Tonda PF or Vacheron Constantin release a rainbow Historiques 222 to celebrate 270 years in style.
SD: I think that rainbow models, in particular, will not be as common this year unless used as a move to gain hype. If you ask me, vibrantly-coloured dials have a better chance of spicing up the tried-and-tested watch models. Speaking of which…
SD: Brightly-coloured dials are my jam! I found myself staring too long at pieces like Maurice Lacroix’s purple Aikon when it first came out. I’ve always been a sucker for this concept, as it adds that pop, especially for your fun second watch. Oris’ Cotton Candy Diver 65 series checked that box for me, too.
AL: Speaking of Oris, the ProPilot X Kermit Edition was such a hit at Watches & Wonders in 2023. The booth was clamouring with people. The Cotton Candy Divers have been tugging at my heartstrings for a long time.
SD: I almost feel that colours for watches are divided into two main categories: special or loud. Examples of the former are TAG Heuer’s purple Carrera and Grand Seiko’s Wisteria. Then there’s the loud kind like many of H. Moser’s selections. Both styles are awesome and tend to draw double-takes. What about bright colours that do it for you?
AL: It’s a refreshing departure from the usual black, blue, white, and even green dials. It’s bound to be an attention grabber and makes you happy just looking at the dial. The effect is similar to changing a watch strap, changing the dial colour gives the watch a whole new dimension.
SD: Besides the dials, have watches with vibrant cases or straps caught your attention?
AL: The Grand Seiko’s SLGA025 Atera Valley looks gorgeous, as do its Sekki editions. anOrdain is one that I’ve never had a chance to see in person, but the fumé dials look so good in pictures. I’m not sure if you recalled Mido’s Ocean Star Decompression Timer 1961 Limited Edition. I thought that was a banger. I hate to say this, but I feel the five coloured Rolex Oyster Perpetual, and later, the Celebration and Puzzle dials made coloured dials sit comfortably alongside the usual black, blue and white dials.
SD: If there is one bright colour you would like to see more of in 2025, what would it be?
AL: A pastel shade of green, or maybe yellow.
SD: I think there’s more room for hot pink dials. Let’s close this up with predictions. Mine is that many brands will begin experimenting with colour in 2025, especially if there are no new technical upgrades for the model.
Once you are done with this story, click here to catch up with our March 2025 issue.