Towards the end of my immersion trip to Japan with Grand Seiko, we were challenged to write a haiku encapsulating the entire experience. That was mine: a philosophical introspection of, in the grand scheme of things, impermanence rather than the casual observation of the tides, waves and coastlines. Just as the ocean never remains still, neither do our lives; everything exists in cycles: success and failure, growth and decline, joy and grief. On deeper reflection, the haiku does not merely say that change is inevitable, but rather argues that change is formative. Over centuries, tides have carved coastlines, shaped landscapes, created habitats and sustained ecosystems. Similarly, the ups and downs we go through mould our character, identity, and perspective.
My haiku was inspired by the very watch that brought me to Japan. Grand Seiko’s protagonist of the year, the Evolution 9 Spring Drive U.F.A. Ushio 300 Diver, takes its name from ushio. It is the Japanese word for tide and an apt choice from a watchmaker whose home is surrounded by oceans and tides, if you will. To grasp a deeper understanding of the watch and its inspiration beyond what a press release could ever convey, it demanded immersion in the environment that inspired it. Tokyo is Japan, but Japan is more than just Tokyo. Our first port of call was Tokyo, but the destination was the Izu Peninsula. Over the course of four days, we followed the currents to discover the story behind ushio and the inspiration for Grand Seiko’s new watch.
In some ways, the watch is the embodiment of Grand Seiko’s “Nature of Time” philosophy. From snow-clad birch trees to frozen lakes and now the tides that surround the Japanese archipelago, most of its watches drew aesthetic inspiration from their surroundings; this was also a means for Grand Seiko to understand time.
Our journey began at the Seiko Museum in the populous and luxurious Ginza district of Tokyo. The museum stood as a sanctuary and a haven for Seiko’s, Grand Seiko’s, and Japan’s horological history. The institution was established in 1981 to commemorate Seiko’s centennial, before being relocated to its current Ginza location in 2020 to mark the 160th anniversary of the birth of Seiko’s founder, Kintaro Hattori, and his birthplace, Ginza. From Japan’s first wristwatch, the Laurel, to other timekeeping artefacts and documents dating back to the 1600s, the exhibition offered a glimpse into the rich history of Japanese timekeeping. In April 2024, the museum’s sixth storey was dedicated to Grand Seiko to showcase where its pursuit of precision first began. Amongst the archival records on display were the first Grand Seiko watch, powered by the Calibre 3180, from 1960, and the certificates from the Neuchâtel and Geneva Observatory Competitions in 1967 and 1968.
Although accuracy has always been central to Grand Seiko’s narrative, what struck me was that the watchmaker’s story is never solely about precision. Beneath every technical achievement, record-breaking or not, lies questions about Grand Seiko’s relationship with time. From Grand Seiko’s perspective, the answer lies in its relationship with nature.
The second leg of our trip brought us to the Izu Peninsula via the Saphir Odoriko train service. The peninsula is designated as a UNESCO Global Geopark and is regarded as one of Japan’s most extraordinary landscapes: rugged coastlines, dramatic cliffs, and volcanoes dominate the region. Izu did not begin life as part of Japan’s mainland. Instead, it was an island on its own until it converged with the Japanese mainland roughly 600,000 years ago due to intense seismic activity. After our train pulled southwest away from Tokyo and Yokohama, grey concrete-scapes gradually dissolved into endless sapphire coastlines. It was this sight that earned the train its namesake. As we zipped through Hakone towards Atami en route to Izu, the towering Mount Fuji greeted us in the distance with its majestic presence, reminding me of Japan’s emblematic connection with nature. Slightly more than two hours later, we arrived at Izu, and our journey of discovery truly began.
Our local guide Mochi-san, who was later joined by free diver and IPA Sports Photographer of the Year Kohei Ueno, shared with us that the peninsula continues to push against the land to this very day, which inadvertently causes Mount Fuji’s height to fluctuate. As ancient as those geological forces are, the backdrop of Sagami Bay reminded us that the tectonic movements are not the only invisible forces at work here. One of our first pit stops on the Izu Peninsula was the picturesque Jogasaki Coast viewpoint, where its dark volcanic coastline met the Pacific Ocean. Natural formations sculpted by the ocean’s endless motion over millennia were a testament to the trip’s central theme of ushio. As we had a moment to ourselves on the Kadowaki Suspension Bridge to take in the scenic beauty, the colours of the seawater that influenced the Ushio 300 Diver’s dial caught my attention. Varying shades of white begin from the dial’s centre evoking the sea spray before gradually shifting to either blue or green. The former was an obvious choice, as sunlight dissolves into spectral blue, the latter is evident in nutrient-rich areas, as sunlight interacts with plant-like organisms that contain chlorophyll. This phenomenon is not a coincidence, as two major ocean currents meet around the Izu Peninsula. The warm Kuroshio current flows northward, while the cold Oyashio current descends from the north, creating one of the richest and most unique marine ecosystems around the peninsula. The kinmedai (splendid alfonsino) in particular flourishes in these waters and thrives at depths from 300m and deeper in the pressurised obsidian. And even though there is no real connection, it was symbolic of the Ushio 300 Diver’s ability to thrive in diving conditions.
The Ushio 300 Diver marks an important milestone for Grand Seiko as it is the smallest dive watch to date at 40.8mm, while the watchmaker’s other dive watch iterations measured 44.2mm across. I recalled speculating about the watch’s specifications with my Thai colleague during a separate work trip just a week before Watches & Wonders. He already had access to the watch’s details after signing the NDA, and my predicted 41mm diameter (and pricing) were spot on. More importantly, it was Grand Seiko’s most accurate dive watch ever, featuring the new Spring Drive Calibre 9RB1, which delivers an astounding annual accuracy of ±20 seconds. The calibre builds on the Spring Drive Calibre 9RB2, with subtle changes to meet the demands of the dive watch. A three-month-old quartz oscillator and a temperature-compensating ultra-low-power IC are housed in a vacuum-sealed package to eliminate fluctuations caused by temperature and humidity differences. An included regulation switch allows corrections if any deviations in accuracy occur due to ageing after assembly.
The watch is housed in a High-Intensity Titanium case with a ceramic bezel rated to 300m water resistance and features a new locking extension clasp with micro- adjustment. One of the biggest changes was shifting the power reserve indicator from the movement to the dial side while sealing the watch with a closed case back. “The power reserve indicator has been positioned on the front side in Calibre 9RB1 to reduce potential water ingress pathways,” lead designer Kiyotaka Sakai explained. “It’s essential that divers can check the power reserve level while wearing the watch.” Sakai-san shared that other changes include omitting the date display and increasing the thickness of the oscillating weight to enhance its durability against shocks. Design has always played an integral role in Sakai-san’s life while growing up. One of his passions during his younger years was restoring older motorcycles, which he would then cycle around his favourite coastal destination in Japan, the Enoshima and Kamakura area near his hometown.
He recalls crafting objects and his fondness for a particular watch during his high school days being the seed that eventually blossomed into a profession as a watch designer. “My teacher advised me that attending an art university could be the first step to becoming a product designer. I forgot about watches after entering Art University to major in product design. However, at one point, I purchased an automatic Seiko watch from the 1970s, which reminded me of my past fascination with craftsmanship. This led to the fortunate opportunity to become a product designer at Seiko. Looking back, I realised that there have been several significant moments in my life where I was connected to now.”
Given how attuned Grand Seiko is with nature, I was curious about Sakai-san’s inspiration behind the watch. Waves would have been the more apparent choice than currents. “As an island nation, Japan is blessed with rich marine resources, and people have long lived in harmony with nature. This theme is also based on our brand philosophy, ‘The Nature of Time.’ Many different currents meet around Japan, which is very rare in the world.” Apart from ushio, shio-doki (潮時) is another term related to tide. While “tidal hour” is shio-doki’s literal translation, metaphorically it means the ideal timing or a good moment to start something. When quizzed about why this was the right moment for Grand Seiko to unveil a dive watch of smaller dimensions, Sakai-san pointed to several factors, including the compact Spring Drive Calibre 9RB, strong market demand for compact dimensions, and the watch’s suitability for daily use.
“We designed the watch so it’s easy to use without much thought. It should feel natural, like the watch is just a part of your normal movement. There should be no discomfort, so the best condition is when you feel no problems while wearing it.” Sakai-san shared, when asked about the watch’s design details that become obvious only when the watch is seen in person or worn.
While aesthetics are the most apparent quality of a watch, the other Ushio 300 Diver design elements are based on Grand Seiko’s Evolution 9 signature style that manifests through the aforementioned aesthetics, legibility, and wearing comfort. “What I think about is whether the watch fits well, and the size feels natural and comfortable when worn. The Evolution 9 style values unique features positively as a Grand Seiko flagship model. For example, the wider bracelet, 12 o’clock hour index, and the thicker handset stand out clearly.” Even though the [titanium] Ushio 300 Diver feels much lighter than conventional dive watches, it commands a presence when worn as Sakai-san intended. “Although the watch is compact, I designed it with a strong, and powerful presence in mind.”
After experiencing the waters and tides up close, we journeyed inland on our penultimate day towards Ao Terrace and later to Koganezaki Park at Ugusu to take in all Izu has to offer from a higher vantage point. Ao Terrace provided a panoramic view of Suruga Bay with Mount Fuji perched in the distance. Rain pelted us as we caught glimpses of Mount Fuji’s snow-capped summit peeking through the grey clouds rumbling in. Nature was in motion around us, and it felt symbolic of ushio. Just as tides inevitably turn, so too did the weather. By the time we arrived at Koganezaki Park, the clouds began to part. Mount Fuji emerged in all its majesty, bathed in the warm glow of the setting sun. Moments before we left, a double rainbow stretched across the horizon to end the rain-drenched day on a high. It was a magical moment that etched itself into our memories; nature is never guaranteed, and its ephemeral beauty was something Grand Seiko always sought to capture and convey.
Our final stop was the Tombolo Land Bridge at duskfall. We huddled by the shoreline as Kohei guided us through a breathing exercise to be one with ourselves and all that surrounds us. Each inhale and exhale was accompanied by the advancing and retreating sounds of the tides and ocean. That experience was a reminder that ushio was more than an inspiration or a poetic Japanese word, and that time is the continuous force that quietly shapes the people we become and the world around us.
From the meeting of currents to the shifting weather and the fleeting moments that enthralled us, it all spoke of the meanings behind my haiku. Even though change is inevitable, it is transformative at its very best. Just as the invisible forces shaped the Izu Peninsula over millennia, the moments that defined us are often the ones we never saw coming. Grand Seiko calls this The Nature of Time, and I came to understand the complexities behind what that truly meant.
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