Interest and fascination in the vintage watch world has never been higher. What was once a quiet, esoteric pursuit defined by scholarship, historical appreciation, and a keen eye for nuance has steadily entered the mainstream. Yet beyond the growing collector interest and its accessibility lies a more enduring question: what gives an old watch the ability to remain relevant even after its original era has long passed?

In most cases, the answer lies in discovery when watches emerge from family estates or forgotten troves to begin a new chapter in the hands of future generations and custodians. Surfaced pieces may find new significance as archivists and specialists piece together gaps in their timelines to establish new provenance. Historically important and significant watches in particular thrive in these moments of discovery when they are elevated as vessels of history and culture.

Renewal is another facet to consider, often taking place at the watchmaker’s bench. Ailing and dormant calibres start ticking again with vigour as worn components are painstakingly recreated with period-accurate techniques in restoration ateliers. It is here where generations of savoir-faire are called upon to return a watch to its former glory. Instead of erasing the flaws of yesterday, the goal is to preserve a timepiece’s integrity while highlighting the passage of time faithful to its origins.

In line with this month’s theme “Begin Again”, we raised the earlier question “what gives an old watch the ability to remain relevant even after its original era has long passed?” to Vacheron Constantin and Phillips Auction House. Few are better placed to answer this question than these two revered institutions in the watch industry. The former safeguards 270 years of watchmaking through restoration, archives and preservation, while the latter uncovers and reintroduces historically important watches to the world. We are joined by Ziyong Ho, Senior International Specialist of Phillips Auction House, who shares his views on Phillips’ role in the watchmaking universe.

Paul Newman’s personal Rolex Cosmograph Daytona

This month’s theme centres around “Begin Again”. In your view, what gives a watch the ability to renew its relevance across generations of collectors?
Some pieces are truly timeless. For example, the Rolex Submariner from the 1950s, famously featured in James Bond movies, remains a coveted reference for collectors. This association continues to inspire new and seasoned collectors to seek out a Rolex Submariner. Some might be drawn to vintage models for their nostalgia, while others might prefer modern versions for their adventurous spirit. Watches like these possess a unique ability to transcend time, connecting the past, present and future. They have become symbolic objects that carry sentimental value, representing special milestones and memories that define one’s life.

Some watches have surfaced after being hidden away in family collections, safes or estates. Can you share a particularly memorable discovery that exemplifies the idea of a watch beginning a new chapter?
For decades, Paul Newman’s personal Rolex Cosmograph Daytona “Paul Newman” was almost mythical. Collectors knew of its existence via photographs of Newman wearing it, but its whereabouts were unknown to the wider collecting community. It resurfaced after Newman gifted it to James Cox in 1984, the boyfriend of his daughter, Nell Newman. When Phillips offered it at the WINNING ICONS – Legendary Watches of the 20th Century auction in New York in 2017, it was the first time the watch appeared on the market.

Having joined Phillips in 2017, WINNING ICONS was the first Phillips auction I attended, and I vividly recall the room’s atmosphere, especially when the opening US$10 million bid was announced. As someone who loves vintage Rolex, the occasion remains deeply personal. The sale was more than a record-breaking auction result. It marked the moment a single watch transcended its function and became a cultural artefact.

Another example is the Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 96 Quantième Lune that belonged to Aisin-Gioro Puyi, the last Emperor of the Qing Dynasty and of China. For decades, the watch remained outside public view. Its existence was largely unknown to scholars and collectors until extensive research reconstructed the chain of ownership through his Russian interpreter, Georgy Permyakov and his family. Phillips spent years authenticating the provenance using archival material, witness testimony and documentary evidence before it was finally sold in 2023.

A Patek Philippe Ref. 96 Quantieme Lune once belonging to Aisin-Gioro Puyi and a watercolour painting

Auction houses are essentially stewards in uncovering historically important watches. for Phillips, How significant is the role of preserving horological heritage?
Unlike paintings or sculptures that are often publicly exhibited, many historically important watches spend decades hidden in private collections. Phillips’ role extends beyond bringing them to the market; it’s about uncovering provenance, documenting history, and ensuring that significant timepieces are preserved within the broader narrative of horology. Without rigorous research, provenance work and public exhibition, these objects can effectively disappear from the historical record. In many cases, the auction is where a watch’s next chapter begins.

When Phillips handles a major watch, our specialists reconstruct ownership histories, verify authenticity through archives and technical analysis, gather documentation and eyewitness accounts, publish detailed catalogue essays, exhibit the watch internationally before sale and create a permanent public record through catalogue and auction results.

Many important pieces come through long-standing relationships with collectors and families. In several cases, Phillips specialists worked closely with owners who inherited watches from parents or grandparents and helped them understand the historical significance and market context of their pieces before deciding whether to sell.

What shifts in collector preferences have surprised you most in recent years?
I noticed the impact of instant gratification on newer collectors. Earlier generations of enthusiasts often spent years studying references, comparing and researching subtle variations before making a purchase. Today, many collectors prefer a more direct route, relying on trusted specialists to identify the best examples rather than undertaking lengthy research themselves. While this reflects changing consumer habits, I remain optimistic that deeper scholarship and appreciation for detail will continue to play an important role as collectors mature.

Culture and social media are becoming more powerful and influencing buying decisions. Younger collectors are often drawn to watches associated with personalities they admire, whether celebrities, athletes or public figures. Cultural connections have become an increasingly important gateway into watch collecting, particularly among first-time buyers.

Data from the recent Phillips Spring 2026 report showed that 35 per cent of registrants were under 40. How has Phillips adapted the way it educates, engages and builds confidence among first-time bidders?
We’ve evolved from being a purely transactional platform to becoming educators and trusted advisors. Through scholarship, provenance research, digital content, specialist access and greater transparency in the bidding process, we help first-time collectors understand what a watch is worth and why it matters.

Auctions remain an unfamiliar territory for many newcomers, particularly in Asia. As a result, Phillips is investing considerable effort into guiding first-time bidders through the process. Specialists regularly engage prospective clients before sales to ensure participants understand exactly what they are committing to. Confidence building is a gradual process rather than a single transaction.

Have you noticed younger collectors approaching vintage watches differently in terms of the brands they pursue, the stories they value, or the way they define collectability?
Yes, younger collectors are entering vintage watch collecting with the idea of finding a watch that reflects their personality and taste. Traditionally, collectors of vintage watches focus on brands, condition, and provenance to decide whether a watch is worthy of their collection. Today, the new collectors of vintage watches have less emphasis on such matters. They collect it based on how they like the watch and how special it is to them. As a result, watches with strong design identities or compelling stories can resonate just as strongly as traditionally important collector references.

For example, vintage Cartier watches are surging in popularity today, as younger collectors like the timeless, art-driven geometric case shapes that are not commonly found in today’s watch design.

F.P. Journe, Chronomètre à Résonance “Souscription, No. 007”

The auction market has helped elevate appreciation for independent watchmakers alongside established maisons. Are collectors redefining significance in watchmaking today?
They are re-evaluating what makes a watch significant, and the auction market has played a key role in this transformation. Traditionally, a watch’s importance was determined by factors such as brand prestige, precious materials, rarity, and age. However, today’s collectors are considering a much broader range of criteria. Auction results from Phillips and other major auction houses indicate that significance is increasingly defined by creativity, originality, provenance and cultural relevance, rather than just the name on the dial.

Independent watchmakers embody this appeal, as collectors enjoy the opportunity to discuss design, movement finishing and other aspects of a watch. These interactions create priceless moments in their collecting journey. When special commissioned pieces or highly anticipated releases from independent brands are auctioned, both new and seasoned collectors express significant excitement.

Scarcity is another defining factor. Unlike larger manufactures, independent watchmakers operate with finite production capacity and limited resources, making access as important as affordability. In many cases, collectors are attracted not only by exclusivity but by the opportunity to support a singular creative vision and participate in the evolution of contemporary watchmaking.

Looking ahead, which watch categories do you believe are currently being overlooked and may one day experience their own renaissance?
I believe that the Métiers d’Art category is highly underrated and often overlooked. It represents a centuries-old accumulation of decorative and fine-art craft skills designed to enhance the beauty of a timepiece. Techniques such as enamelling, engraving, and marquetry are passed down from one master artisan to another, ensuring that no two pieces are alike. This craftsmanship transforms these timepieces into unique miniature works of art.

This century-old craft is also becoming increasingly rare, raising genuine concerns about its potential disappearance in the future. Only a handful of master enamellers, guillocheurs, and marqueteurs remain, with top-tier manufacturers like Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin being two notable brands that continue to invest in and train young talent to preserve the traditions of Métiers d’Art.

Once you are done with this story, click here to catch up with our November 2026 issue.