Louis Vuitton, Dior, and Kenzo: Reviews of Paris Fashion Week FW24

By Men's Folio
February 06, 2024

Here, compiled for easy reference, are our reviews of the Fall Winter 2024 Men’s shows from Paris Fashion Week.

Louis Vuitton

No dream is ever too big, and the Louis Vuitton Men’s FW24 show wholly believes in that philosophy.

Read the full review here.

Dior

The prettiness of couture and the tactility of modern menswear converged at the Dior Men Winter 2024 show once again. This time, owing its flamboyance to the theatricality of ballet, an obvious stylistic match for the romantic designer that is most notably Jones.

Read the full review here.

Hermes

The colder seasons do not stop the Hermes man from moving. For FW24, the house envisions a wardrobe for the man with places to be and things to do. A feeling of lightness and playfulness emanates through Véronique Nichanian’s vision of dressing for men.

In Hermès’ version of casual attire and workwear, silhouettes were presented in sharp and free of bulk. Translucent parkas display layers underneath like candy wrappers; argyle and gradients in knits resembled wild bouquets, organic and free-flowing. As a Maison that specialises in leather, the use of leather—deerskin, lambskin and calfskin in peacoats and blousons emphasises functionality over a mere expression of luxury. At a glance, these pieces were made for voyages beyond the boardroom and VIP airport lounges.

Come nighttime, the Hermes man twinkles under the moonlight like a cluster of stars. Dressed in narrow trousers, high-collared shirts and slim blazers rendered in shiny mohair canvas and iridescent fabric conjure a spirit of irreverence. For dancing, he prefers boots made of smooth crocodile leather—as light bounces off each scale like a disco ball in the dark.

When the time comes, you move with the season.

Givenchy

Two things usually happen post-breakups — one either seeks out a whiplash-worthy rebound or sets out on a journey of self-discovery. As a studio-led collection, Givenchy’s first show since Matthew M. Williams’ departure as creative director demonstrates a sense of introspection and a gentle observation of its roots.

For a brand that has endured two creative directors within the past six years, a palate cleanser is perhaps deemed crucial before setting sail on newer beginnings.

Rather than lofty interpretations of the house codes, FW24 seduces with an air of restraint to free itself from old flames. Opening the show with Hubert de Givenchy’s work uniform, a boxy, collarless blouse dangles the idea of a fresh restart. No longer brooding, the Givenchy man sports shrunken silhouettes and carries himself with modesty and his rediscovered elegance — one that doesn’t involve layering outerwear on top of bare torsos. Looks featured slim, chandelier-clad trousers and lightweight turtlenecks worn under trimmed-fitting outerwear, all paired with mules and loafers with slim soles.

Out goes severity, in comes tenderness worn as headscarves printed with trompe l’oeil braids. Arms tucked underneath the cape-style sleeves of cropped bombers, coats and jackets remove the mulled stance of masculine dressing and welcome a touch of femininity. Shearling-lined parkas and Pandora bags were seen alongside new iterations of the Voyou bag — which now comes in grained buffalo and velvety cowhide.

And although paradoxical at first, demonstrating restraint and nonchalance means coexisting out of introspection and self-centring. As Givenchy finds new footing, returning to its origins and to refrain itself from overexertion is now a crucial act of self-preservation; as we’ve always seen.