Berluti goes casual for Fall/Winter 2024 — but not without imbuing its signatures.
If there was any pre-conceived notion that the upper echelons of fashion were stuffy and dry, Berluti dismisses it with its Fall/Winter 2024 collection. Distinctly enough, its iconography — which unfolds in the vernacular of patinated leathers and stamped Scritto pattern — now has been brought over into the maison’s ideas of casual-wear.
Denim-cut jackets and relaxed tracksuits are made posh, with little luxuries observed where the light cannot see. Jackets’ undercollars are more detailed and decorated, and updated cobbling craft techniques are offered as reason for customers to buy into more of the house’s dogma. In the house’s steadfastness toward its iconography, it would seem as though blind faith is a prerequisite in becoming a customer. After all, if a tree falls in a forest and no one is around to hear it, does it make a sound?
One could say that the house is erring on the side of caution — declining showy silhouettes or impactful graphics. But Berluti stands firm in what it knows best: that its designs are not intended to attract but retain.
So Fall/Winter 2024 is again, just an extension. Catering to an existing pool of dedicated clients, who live by the creed of subtle iconography (an IYKYK moment, if you will), its premium branding is premium not for recognition, but instead for the sumptuousness afforded by good fabrics and better fabrication. Of course jeans cannot merely materialise in rough denim, nor tracksuits in cheap polyester brands — not when you are a player that dominates the market in the lens of luxuriance. Instead, the new season is not out to wow visually. The devil’s is in the details (or rather, materials): suede-cashmere and cotton-silk are climate-friendly, and lux-enough winter staples.
Once you’re done with this story, click here to catch up with our December/January 2024 issue!
