Berluti blends its iconic styles with contemporary sensibilities in an impeccable manner. Their approach to luxury is as sophisticated as it is casual, a balance between the tradition and the modern to epitomise a dapper and elegant style.
Berluti is dedicated to a suave male population, continuously striving to create signature pieces of the male wardrobe as presented to us in their Fall Winter 2023 collection. While they have seen creative directors Alessandro Sartori, Haider Ackermann, and Kris Van Assche spearhead the brand, it now follows the formulaic contemporary approach to menswear. In Berluti’s world today, it is not about focusing on new silhouettes, play on patterns and colours like other brands. This, however, is no surprise as they have created a legacy of creating high-quality leather goods for men that is rooted in longevity and éclat. These values have stuck with them even after four generations of shoemakers.
We still desire for Berluti because of their innate quality and how it exudes a sense of prestige for the wearer. It is dressing with sprezzatura at its finest, because wearing the customary men’s style of smart casual radiates an effortless elegance. However, in the age of entertainment (and maybe even distraction), we crave to be awed by unexpected styling choices and silhouettes that instantaneously grab our attention. This is not in the books of Berluti — a meticulous amount of effort and time is patiently taken to create pieces that will stay with their consumers.
There is a way to dress with prosperity while staying under the radar — getting in touch with our tactile sense, not with sight. Their petrol blue charbonnier jacket morphs suede and tech wool, a sand-coloured military jacket blends panels of suede and cotton, and a grey water-resistant carcoat is constructed with leather accents, in true Berluti style. In their more summery pieces, lightweight materials and lightness of construction is felt with its softly overdyed softly-structured linen suits with trousers in shades of blue. Here, Berluti has no intention of creating a flaunting collection. Their clothes seek to maintain a discretion in line with a stealth wealth lifestyle through the luxurious quality of clothes — to be felt by touch and understood when adorned by the wearer.
Berluti’s Spring -Summer 2024 Menswear collection is quintessential classicism. A term thrown around an innumerous time in menswear, but they undeniably fit into it. Windbreakers, military jackets, tapered trousers, and linen tops are all too familiar in modern dress codes for menswear to curate a capsule wardrobe. However, it’s the accessories that fuse with the garments and deliver simplicity. In the genetics of these pieces, is a sense of sophistication which evolved from the Maison’s history in the bespoke. It is a favourite among discerning consumers who appreciate the finer things in life, more fittingly, those whom lead the stealth wealth lifestyle. Its signifiers (aside from the premium materials and exceptional craftsmanship), the Scritto pattern which is embellished on the pockets of linen shirts, the half-zip of the Un Jour bag assimilating onto chinos, and the B logo featured as embroideries on knitwear, reinforces the association with affluence.
The Parisian brand deeply anchors themselves with the term “savoir-faire” — the ability to know the right thing to do or say in any situation, and a quality that is highly valued in today’s society. Natural to some, elusive to others, Berluti has exuded this elegant quality masterfully. On the flipside, will the timeless appeal of Berluti continue to resonate with future generations? Will the allure of refined craftsmanship continue to be appreciated in a world where instant gratification is permeating our psyches?
One thing clear is that Berluti will not be divorced from their commitment to innovation and attention to detail. Since the birth of the Maison in 1895, they have not shifted from their core values. The co-existence of new materials and techniques alongside their historical signatures of the Scritto and Venezia leather presents to us both the past and the present of Berluti. There is no disputation in how this collection is an art of mixing, where its various pieces can be paired with different outfits, showing how their savoir-faire is up in the air, but Berluti needs to ensure that this continues to be valued for generations to come.
Once you’re done with this review of the Berluti SS24 menswear collection, click here to catch up with our June/July 2023 issue.
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