“Ascend Play” is the latest chapter in Berluti’s FW23 story, narrating a genre of high-street done right.
For its first chapter in FW23 offerings, Berluti set up a discourse on new-age tailoring. One that recalled the precision of its heritage as shoemakers and legacy as a house with consistent strides in made-to-measure menswear. For its succeeding chapter, titled Ascend Play, the House continues its exploration of the new-age with contemporary takes on athleisure. The collection comprises classic casual silhouettes and cuts. Shaped in the ideals of progress and elevation for the House — especially as Berluti lacks a singular figurehead to firmly narrate its brand story — Berluti’s FW23, or The Great Escape as coined by the brand, rises to escape the conventions of a fine tailoring label.
Ascend Play thus ascends to deliver an homage of old-timey sportswear, not contemporary in exaggerated cuts or fits, but contemporary in application of premium materiality. In the realm of sportswear, uncommonly found textiles are utilised to elevate second FW23 capsule. Tracksuits are composed of fleece, sweatshirts are reimagined in suede, and varsity jackets are brought to life in the sturdiness of deerskin — all echoing Berluti’s historic love for marrying classic silhouettes and plush materials. And where needed, the Berluti logo appears to cater to modern-day demand, in collegiate block embroidery, but also, is restrained to balance the House’s focus in construction.
The collection proves itself to understand the essence of athletic wear. More than just for show, the Berluti “Ascend Play” series sees a fine selection of handy leather goods that depict as much consideration for function as there was for form. Two new Softys — a backpack and messenger — are fashioned in supple grained Venezia leather, a nod to the House’s beginnings as leathermakers. Boasting on-the-go practicality at the forefront of its creation, the former sees novel additions in the shape of a shoe compartment and trolley loop, while the latter doubles as a crossbody.
Berluti’s exploration of elevated casual-wear retells a sensibility as expected from heritage Houses alike. The result? A storied continuation of “The Great Escape”. If the first chapter was successful in reeling Berluti audiences in, the second serves sufficient in retaining them and building anticipation for the chapters to come.
The Ascend Play line is now available in Berluti stores worldwide and on the e-shop. Once you’re done with this story, click here to catch up with our August 2023 issue.
