Watches and Wonders 2023 is in full-swing and Men’s Folio is in Geneva, Switzerland to experience the latest novelties firsthand. Here are the highlights from day 2 of Watches and Wonders 2023. Click here to read about Day 1 and Day 2 highlights if you have not already.
Hublot MP-13 Tourbillon Bi-Axis Retrograde
Hublot flexes its mechanical might at Watches & Wonders 2023 with its latest masterpiece — the Hublot MP-13 Tourbillon Bi-Axis Retrograde. In a defiant bid against traditional watchmaking, a three-part ingredient of disruption, creativity, and technical Haute Horlogerie come together for Hublot’s latest time-telling expression. A striking display is made possible by bringing two complications, the tourbillon and the retrograde display, together for the first time in a Hublot watch. The passage of time follows the semi-circle display, snapping back to zero when it reaches the end of the hour or minute. Motion continues to be the main narrative as the double axis tourbillon tangoes in perfect harmony — one axis completes a full rotation every 60 seconds and the other every 30 seconds. 374 components are responsible for bringing this masterpiece to life, housed in the HUB6200 manual-winding calibre. The Hublot MP-13 Tourbillon Bi-Axis Retrograde is housed in a satin-finished titanium case and is limited to 50 pieces worldwide.
Zenith Pilot Big Date Flyback
One of Zenith’s lesser-known bits of history takes centre stage at Watches & Wonders 2023 as the Le Locle manufacture unveils the Zenith Pilot Big Date Flyback as part of the revitalised Pilot collection. The Pilot collection traces its roots back to 1888, when Zenith founder Georges-Favre Jacot filed a trademark for the French term “Pilote”, followed by the English version “Pilot” in 1904, and remains the only watch brand that can have “PILOT” on its dials. Presently, the Pilot collection is Zenith’s longest-standing collection and has seen numerous iterations over the years, the latest of which was presented this year. Instead of the tried and tested vintage execution, this year’s edition features a total redesign paying homage to the past and present of aviation. The Zenith Pilot Big Date Flyback speaks with a new case design — a rounded microblasted ceramic case with a distinct flat-top bezel conveys stealth. Horizontal grooves run across the dial mimicking corrugated aeroplane bodies from the previous early century. Oversized Arabic numerals riff from aeroplane dashboard instruments, while a white horizontal hash serves as an upright indicator. An oversized crown, another hallmark of pilot watches, completes the package with an angular construction. Zenith’s new El Primero 3652 automatic high-frequency chronograph calibre controls the big date and flyback chronograph complications. A next-gen patented compliant mechanism that advances and stabilises both of the big date’s wheels in less than 0.03 seconds, while the flyback chronograph allows wearers to quickly reset a running chronograph without first resetting it.
Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Collection Tentagraph: SLGC001
Precision forms one of the cornerstones of Grand Seiko’s philosophies as the revered Japanese manufacture prides itself on accuracy among its other pursuits. After a series of mechanical breakthroughs over the past few years, Grand Seiko unveils its next breakthrough with the Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Collection Tentagraph: SLGC001. Framed in a high-intensity titanium case and ceramic bezel, the SLGC001 bears the hallmarks of a contemporary sports chronograph watch. Bold handsets are paired with Grand Seiko’s signature “Mt. Iwate pattern dial” offering a contrast of styles. At the SLGC001’s heart lies the calibre 9SC5 Tentagraph, an abbreviation for Ten Beats per second, Three days power reserve and Automatic Chronograph. The calibre concept originated from the revolutionary high-beat Calibre 9SA5 which served as the base of the Tentagraph. A next-generation dual impulse escapement is the magic behind the movement as it offers efficient energy transfer, while MEMS technology ensures extremely precise, lightweight, and highly durable escapement parts that help achieve longer power reserves. The introduction of the Tentagraph is met with more rigorous tests as the movement is tested for 20 days instead of 17 to ensure optimal performance.
Once you are done with Watches and Wonders Geneva 2023 Day 3 Highlights, click here to catch up with our March 2023 issue.
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