Watches and Wonders 2023 is in full-swing and Men’s Folio is in Geneva, Switzerland to experience the latest novelties firsthand. Here are the highlights from day 2 of Watches and Wonders 2023. Click here to read about Day 1’s highlights if you have not already.
Cartier Privé Tank Normale
The Cartier Privé, now in its seventh year, celebrates another mythical creation in Maison’s archives with the Cartier Privé Tank Normale. Inspired by the 1917 edition made by Louis Cartier and sold two years later, the Cartier Privé Tank Normale evokes the past with pepperings of Cartier’s contemporary aesthetics. While the platinum version is a showstopper with a matching platinum bracelet (a first for the Cartier Privé collection), one cannot deny the visual appeal of the skeletonised Tank Normale watch. Apart from the Maison’s signature skeletonised complication, Cartier gives the watch a twist with a 24-hour dial layout, with midnight positioned at the bottom and noon at the upper of the dial . By doing so, the hours with daylight are positioned on the upper half of the dial while the night is on the bottom half. The Cartier Privé Tank Normale comes in platinum or yellow gold and is limited to 50 pieces each.
Panerai Radiomir Annual calendar PAM01363
Radiomir Una Storia Leggendaria is the theme for Panerai this year as it tells the legendary story of the Radiomir. The Radiomir needs no further introduction as it played an integral part in Panerai’s formative years and became one of the most iconic shapes in horology. This year, Panerai writes a new chapter for the Radiomir with a host of novelties, including the Panerai Radiomir Annual calendar PAM01363. Though Panerai was founded in 1860, the manufacture has never introduced the annual calendar complication to its watches until 2023. Housed in a 45mm Goldtech™ case, a blue sunburst case sees the calendar’s information (day, date and month) placed in harmony. Reading the calendar is a breeze; the double aperture indicates the day and date while the arrow indicates the current month. As the month progresses, a cam in the movement rotates the external mobile month disc, making the information change happen instantaneously. As with all annual calendars, the calendar automatically accounts for months with 30 or 31 days and needs to be adjusted only once a year at the end of February. Panerai’s newly developed automatic P.9010/AC calibre is the brains behind the gear works, with a small corrector on the left side of the case that allows the day to be changed click by click.
Montblanc 1858 Iced Sea Automatic Date
Montblanc follows up on last year’s Montblanc 1858 Iced Sea Automatic Date with the addition of a brand new dial colour. A striking grey dial is the centre of attraction as the dive watch takes on Mont-Blanc mountain’s largest glacier — the Mer de Glace. A special technique called gratté-boisé gives each dial the impression of genuine depth and luminosity. A relief engraving on the case back gives the iceberg a touch of realism and reminds one of the underwater connections the Montblanc 1858 Iced Sea Automatic Date shares. Further ISO 6425 certifications ensure the dive watch follows international standards, giving divers peace of mind when taking the Montblanc 1858 Iced Sea Automatic Date for underwater adventures.
Bell & Ross BR-05 Green Gold
Designed with urban expressions in mind, the Bell & Ross BR-05 has been one of the shining knights in the brand’s repertoire since it debuted. After multiple interpretations with complications and materials, Bell & Ross arrives at the Bell & Ross BR-05 Green Gold. The latest expression is inspired by urban environments interspersed with greenery, and cityscapes that see concrete jungles become one with nature. An 18k rose gold case comes with a matching rose gold integrated bracelet and a sunburst green dial that appears dark green or even black when viewed from different angles. Those who prefer a less flashy look can switch the bracelet to an alligator strap which coincidentally is the first time the BR-05 features a leather strap.
Once you are done with Watches and Wonders Geneva 2023 Day 1 Highlights, click here to catch up with our March 2023 issue.
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