Ask any collector or watch lover what their grail watches are and more often than not, a few unicorns along with reference numbers (1016, 2499, 15202 etc.) will be thrown into the list. Be ready to baulk at the prices of such pieces though, given how the value of such watches continues to rise steadily. If all else fails, why not look at alternatives or mini grail watches like we call them? Each has a value proposition to it and are relatively attainable when compared to their counterparts.
Pictured above: Split Chronograph
Chronographs have always been a cornerstone of Breitling’s identity if you were to look through its archive and milestone pieces, and it is no surprise that a chronograph makes this list. The new Premier B15 Duograph 42 is no ordinary chronograph though if you are quick to spot the extra pusher on the crown and the two chronograph second hands. It is a rattrapante or split chronograph and is considered one of the most complex complications to make.
Sure it may not be a holy grail like the Turbograph (Google it!) or the somewhat more accessible 1815 Rattrapante but Breitling’s Premier B15 Duograph 42 shares a complication they have (rattrapante) and comes in at a fraction of its price tag making it worthy of a mini grail watch title. The stainless steel version with blue dial seen here may have flown under the radar but it will not be long till the horology community is on red alert.
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Neo-Vintage Diver
Dive watches will always be popular among buyers and collectors simply for their looks, associations and functionality, even though many are not used for diving these days. Factor in huge demand and astronomical resale prices, getting your hands on popular pieces elevated to mini grail watch status might be a tall order. As Omega released its latest slew of novelties this year, it hit the home run with its trio of Seamaster 300s.
Neo-vintage elements pepper the minimalist execution of the Seamaster 300, which is rather unusual these days as watch manufactures love to print lines of information on the dial. A touch of fauxtina (faux patina) adds a lovely warmth to the inky black portions while the lollipop-ended second hand is a nod to early Seamasters. Omega backs up its good looks with an equally impressive calibre, the automatic Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 8912. Though a certain coronet bearing Sub will come to mind as the archetypal dive watch, the newest Seamaster 300 does a good job with its “purist” execution.
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Integrated Construction
The appetite for stainless steel sports watches with integrated bracelets is unrelenting — pieces of such execution from the upper echelons command eye-watering amounts of money while more brands are jumping on the bandwagon. Rest well knowing that Tissot is pulling out its PRX from its archives with a refreshed take on the 1978 model.
As with all watches with integrated bracelets, the PRX features a seamless transition from its stainless steel case to bracelet. An added 100m water resistance gives owners assurance that it will fare well under regular sports usage. The PRX errs towards the slimmer spectrum due to its quartz mechanism within, allowing it to slip under a shirt or jacket cuff effortlessly. Last we checked with local reps, the PRX has chalked up a waitlist simply for its price and value. No one knows for sure if an automatic version will be released, but do keep your eyes peeled if it releases in the future.
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Bronze Beauty
The mention of Bronzo will send chills down the spines of the Paneristi (Panerai’s fan community) as many can recall the frenzied craze that sparked off in 2011 when the Luminor Submersible Bronzo 1950 PAM382 was released. It was Panerai’s first-ever bronze watch and it has since morphed into a legendary collection on its own. 10 years on and a few iterations later, Panerai releases a literal mini grail watch — the Submersible Bronzo Blu Abisso PAM01074.
The PAM01074 is dainty when compared to its 47mm big brothers but manages to hold itself well nonetheless with its 42mm presence. A glorious blue dial and matching strap complements the warmth of the bronze case which will develop a patina unique to its owner over time. It is not a limited edition piece but Panerai is only producing 1000 pieces of the PAM01074 per year.
Be sure to check out our May ’21 issue of Men’s Folio Singapore!
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