For SS24 womenswear, Rick Owens presents Lido, a structural marriage of strength and femininity.
While Rick Owens is often associated with structured designs and monochromatic palettes, SS24’s collection is striking — contrasting elements of romanticism while maintaining an undercurrent of a subtle, permeating violence.
The location itself was an exemplification of the contrast. Cascades of flowers gently descended to form a poetic backdrop, jarred by the architectural leather jackets, sculpted horn-like shoulders and venus flytrap collars that threatened to swallow models’ heads. Veiled faces and enigmatic full-body ensembles added to this evocation of protective strength, as if the clothes rendered the models impermeable.
Reminiscent of the smoky scene, hues of grey and black washed over draped tent-like silk gazar bodysuits and billowing dresses, adding to the seamless integration of the clothes and the ethereal ambience. Accompanied by the show’s soundtrack echoing the lyrics, ‘I still believe in love,’ the entire scene seemed to transcend into a hauntingly beautiful tableau, evoking the notion that one might willingly embark on a tumultuous and hopeful journey for the sake of love.
Within this collection, Owens crafted an intimate and nurturing sanctuary amidst the tumultuous backdrop of contemporary life—a world marked by chaos, violence, and estrangement. This narrative subtly reflects the complexities of our modern world and, in the end, hints that hope and love could be the answer to it all.
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