Here, compiled for easy reference, are our reviews of the Fall Winter 2024 Men’s shows from Milan Fashion Week.
Gucci
Call it blind faith, but the breadth of emotions in the Gucci FW24 menswear collection may have made us firm believers in its revised vision. What a strong start for Milan Fashion Week.
Read the review here.
Fendi
Although there’s a never-ending flood of new and thought-provoking collections released each season, Fendi knows it still doesn’t change the fact that most people are loyal to the things they’re already comfortable with.
For instance, the Peekaboo, which — in its 15-year-long history — hasn’t quite deviated from its original design. Or the Baguette, which are usually adapted with the right amount of jazz to spark our imagination but never too far from how it’s always been remembered. The same goes for FW24; a collection that provided a completely different take on the Fendi family’s legacy, yet is still grounded in the sensibilities of the general fashion spectrum.
It’s not to say it isn’t revolutionary — suede jackets paired with organza skirts on men oozes a futuristic edge. Even the (shockingly) desirable wearable Devialet bags are enough to contemplate an impulse to shock. In fact, we wouldn’t be surprised if Silvia Venturini Fendi borrowed the confidence from the genderless ideas of its former Winter 23 capsule curated by Stefano Pilati for the new collection. But something like mohair in replacement of fur (lest we forget the brand was brought to fame thanks to its export of fur products), and focusing largely on traditional menswear by-products speaks a lot about a brand that wants to stay comfortable without having to lose out. And frankly, there’s nothing wrong with that — we’d love a Peekaboo anytime, no matter how slight or major the changes may be.
Dolce & Gabbana
After what felt like years of wasted potential with its inconsistency, Dolce Gabbana chose to retain its former self for FW24 — and it’s really, really good.
Tailoring means business, but they often fall out of favour with the young; you wouldn’t actually think of a tuxedo as material for baddie behaviour, would you? There’s the red carpet to blame for its lacklustre appeal, and truthfully, it’s easier to fall prey to beaming casual items today that have street-cred embedded in them, than a suit that constricts the body let alone your personal style.
The old Dolce&Gabbana knew how to circumvent this, back when they recognised more sensibilities in tailoring when it’s looked at with a bit of flair, and by flair we mean, a deviation from tradition. Think: SS03 and FW03, when the duo remixed their tailoring ambitions with bomber jackets and distressed cargo pants to a degree of fashion archivist success. Now, 20 years later, we saw a return to a simple viewpoint through a concise FW24 collection — still heavily fixated on classic menswear styles, but edgy, even romantic, enough to pull off for 2024 in a way that’s simply just sleek. And with no oddly-placed prints, nor a stupendous amount of looks — we finally have an edit from Dolce&Gabbana that’s worthy of your immediate attention.
Prada
Taking apart the mundane and adding a dash of the dysfunctional has always been a joyful catharsis with Prada. This time, however, it’s all about capturing the droning feelings of a mundane office — and the party you’re heading to after work.
Just as every brand tends to lean towards a specific style, subject, or era, uniforms have long been the foundation of countless legendary collections at Prada — Miuccia Prada‘s first ready-to-wear collection was, you guessed it, inspired by her old-school uniforms. And it’s not specific to her either; even Prada co-captain Raf Simons once fixated on the boyish charms of British school uniforms up till his last collection for his eponymous label. Thus, it would make sense that for FW24, the duo proposes their take on the most irreverent uniform of all — the salaried men’s workwear.
The new collection is largely comprised of workwear ideas boxy yet slim blazers and coats, and lots of ties — something that’s become almost like a totem for the new season. It’s business in the front and a party in the back, before we get to a closing look that mirrors the opening and creates the perfect perpetual loop.
Things are interchangeable, especially the accessories, as though to insinuate that your workwear can be transformed for a rave. The Re-Nylon backpacks have additional hooks for the large over-looped belts we saw on some of the pants. The hats and beanie add a not-so-serious touch, while coloured jacquard tights — worn initially under some serious trousers — are a revelation for the late-night.
The idea doesn’t fall far from the public’s opinion of Prada either, whose tailoring offerings have long supplied the uniform of salaried men throughout the last three decades.
Therefore, as the state of the office changes, so too will its fashion.
ZEGNA
There isn’t a more apt time to discuss the importance of longevity in fashion than now, and ZEGNA has just made it abundantly clear with its FW24 collection that it has been and will continue to be the one steering this conversation into the future.
Read the full review here.
Once you’re done with this story, click here to catch up with our December/January 2024 issue.
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