Quenino by Victor Liong is a Genuine Article of Fusion - Men's Folio

Quenino by Victor Liong is a Genuine Article of Fusion

Rooted in lived experiences.

Quenino by Victor Liong is the resident fine-dining hideout of Artyzen Singapore, its degustation menu showcases the best of Asian cuisine melded with contemporary Western savoir-faire.

The gastronomic scene in Singapore is no stranger to the melding of seemingly at-odd cultural palettes. Cafés, diners, bistros, and fine dining establishments have become fertile ground for mingling culinary fare, so much so that it has become difficult to differentiate the worthwhile and the not-so. What makes a fusion dining concept worth visiting beyond novelty or quirky design? In the face of culinary contrivance, it is authenticity that shines through. Fusion succeeds best when rooted in lived experience; there is no faking a life of blended cultures. It is what makes chef Victor Liong’s contemporary Asian restaurant — Quenino at Artyzen Singapore — a genuine article of fusion.

Born in Brunei to Malaysian parents of Chinese heritage, chef Liong honed his skills in Sydney before establishing Lee Ho Fook, his acclaimed modern Chinese restaurant in Melbourne. Now, chef Liong turns his attention to Singapore — drawn by its rich cultural and culinary intersections — as the new home for Quenino.

Through and through, Quenino reflects the coalescence of Asian cultures that have taken root here. Even its name, derived from Kristang —a creolised Portuguese spoken by the Eurasian community meaning “little one” — pays homage to the region’s heritage. The casual fine-dining space boasts two degustation-only selections that explore flavours from the locale.

Both menus are prix fixe: $180++ for the 7-Course Focus Menu and $240++ for the 9-Course Discover Menu. From its vast tasting selection, patrons can look forward to a wide array of familiar flavours reimagined through chef Liong’s savoir-faire. Key dishes include Australian hand-picked mud crab paired with taro cream and, Malaysian artisanal caviar and raw Spencer Gulf kingfish with creamy white soy, white fungi, burnt garlic oil, and sliced radish (all pictured above). Each bite-sized delicacy reflects chef Liong’s deep esteem for Asian flavours while grounded in the sensibilities he refined during his Australian tenures.

Quenino’s architecture also pays tribute to Singapore’s cultural heritage and Artyzen Singapore’s design approach. Floor-to-ceiling windows overlook verdant pocket gardens, referencing the site’s history as a 1940s mansion built by horticulturist Tan Hoon Siang. Its furnishings are lavish without being gaudy. Where gilded chandeliers serve as the pièce de résistance, earthier Straits-born elements are incorporated to balance the space — like in the curved wood slat ceilings.

Capping off chef Liong’s cultural laudation are sweeter inclinations just as steeped in tradition as the rest of the menu — Singaporean-relished pandan jam is complemented with frozen coconut, and Southeast Asian-beloved sweet corn ice cream is topped off with caramelised milk. The accompanying beverage selection features an extensive wine list — over half Australian — and craft cocktails like the Miss Joaquim. Inspired by Singapore’s national orchid, the blend combines local gin with yuzu, orange blossom, lemongrass, and egg whites. From the rich tapestry of its menu, it is clear why chef Liong chose Singapore as the inspiration for Quenino — its cultural diversity mirrors his own.

Once you are done with this story, click here to catch up with our September 2024 issue.