Cha Chaan Teng is an edible Wong Kar Wai-inspired film you can have with booze options that each tell stories of their own — all best served dine-in.
You know how food concepts today are always looking to re-contextualise bygone (or endangered) icons in a more contemporary tone? Think American diners with a jukebox that plays K-pop, British pubs serving sake, or even the franchising of Singapore’s star hawker stalls into air-conditioned, Michelin-star restaurants — it’s always fine-tuning the sauce that gives the status, and cutting out the not so good parts for a new-age kind of comfort. Often times, the food itself also receives an update in either flavour or presentation, thanks to the global influence that comes with the Internet. But it’s not so often that the new-age grub and booze outdoes the source of inspiration — and Cha Chaan Teng does just that.
Yes, the restaurant’s name is literally Cha Chaan Teng (‘tea restaurant’ and 茶餐厅 in Cantonese) or CCT, and takes cues from a very cinematically-portrayed Hong Kong of the 80’s to curate a truly moody, gastronomic experience. Walled up in a gorgeous emerald on Lavender Street — save for a small window and a cutout to hold their sign board — is a less-than-one-year-old speakeasy that offers a local twist on traditional cha chaan teng fare; the Singaporean Cantonese diaspora really putting in the work to celebrate both port cities’s melting pot cultures.
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While CCT is open during lunch hours, you’ll get a better idea of the look and feel the folks behind are going for after sunset. As if on a film set lit through red, yellow and green gels, the interior is kept sensually dim, each table equipped with cute lamps that glow just enough for you to know what you’re putting in your mouth. Wood-framed marble counter-tops the bar, while other seating arrangements include booths, circular tables and what looks like hardwood table-and-stool sets. A Cantonese city pop artist sings in the background, just loud enough to drown out other diners’ conversations but not loud enough overwhelm your own.
The hyper-specific vibe is immaculately set from the get-go, and the arrival of the menu only brings this play into the era to the next level. If you don’t speak Cantonese, fret not — the menu spells out the dialect names of all the dishes phonetically, so you won’t be butchering any mother tongues or cracking any brains trying to decipher traditional Chinese characters.
At a glance, the food consists of classics either deconstructed, completely reimagined or just mixed with something unexpectedly Singaporean — and they have so far, worked pretty well. Recently, CCT just updated their dinner menu to include more small sharing plates like the classic Tong Cou So Coi (糖醋蔬菜/Hot and Sour Vegetables), now expressed in bite-sized flavour bombs of pani puri, and the epitome-of-Asian-cuisine Chun Gyun (春卷/Spring Roll) with a Peranakan makeover — served as kueh pie tee.
Chun Gyun and Tong Cou So Coi
Other honourable mentions include the fun Wu Tao Gou (芋头糕/Yam Cake), presented as a fun basket of shaker fries, and the Siu Ye Coi Faa (烧椰菜花/Roasted Cauliflower), and a very obnoxiously juicy and fleshy Haa Cheong Tin Gai (虾酱田鸡/Prawn Paste Frog Legs) — coming from someone who doesn’t usually eat frog.
Siu Ye Coi Faa
Of course, there are certain delicacies that are best enjoyed in its original form, and their Siu Yuk (烧肉/Roasted Pork Belly) crackles and melts exactly where it should. Marinated in CCT’s house-made glaze for 8 hours, the pork belly is then oven-baked and double glazed for maximum juice, before being air-dried for 12 hours and served with a pairing of a special HK-style salsa verde — an extra pizzaz that cuts through the sweet and salty.
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We are still not at the icing on top of the cake, though. Beverage Head Bai Kuan (BK) took it upon himself to transform various HK dishes and sweet treats into hard-to-believe, tasty libations, sectioned up into five unique series — Signatures (經典), Song Faai (爽快), Yum Cha (飲茶), Siu Mei (燒味) and Tong Sui (糖水) — that are meant to reflect the various moods that make up that recognisable Hong Kong vibe.
On the safer end, you have the delightful Yoeng Zi Gam Lou (杨枝甘露/Mango Sago) from the Song Faai series — a sweet treat laced with Angostura Tamboo Spiced rum and a dusting of dehydrated sago crumbs that tastes like the literal essence of the popular dessert. Up one notch in adventurous and you get the O Waa Tin (Ovaltine) from the Yum Cha series, a rich and malty drink made more creamy with the addition of St Remy Signature, Angostura and chocolate bitters and demerara — a kind of loose sugar that comes with delicate caramel notes.
Song Faai Series (Ning Mung Cha or Lemon Tea, Yaa Sei Mei or 24 Flavour Tea and Joeng Zi Gam Lou or Mango Sago)
Yum Cha Series (Daan Tat or Egg Tart, O Waa Tin or Ovaltine and Sai Do Si or French Toast)
And here we are now, where CCT truly shines. Innovation means creating new flavours, yes, but it also means making sure you get the most out of all the ingredients you are already working with. At CCT, ingredient recycling or repurposing actually works. If you include their separate (and considerably more normal) lunch menu, it’d be pretty clear that they serve a pretty big range of foods and drinks. There’s bound to be leftovers, and instead of throwing them away, a serendipitous lightbulb moment gave way to the inception of things like roasted pork belly cocktail, and a dessert made with leftover bolo pau.
Siu Mei Series (Juk or Pork, Ngaap or Duck and Ye Coi Faa or Cauliflower)
Utilising the trimmings from the Siu Yuk used in the dinner menu to fat-wash the peppery and sweet Castarede Bas Armagnac, Juk (肉/Pork) from the Siu Mei series is harmoniously crafted with the addition of maltose syrup and five spice bitters — a true test of the teamwork between all your five senses and how far you will go for your love of the indulgent face of HK roasted meats (arguable). As for the memorable and while-stocks-last bolo pau and butter pudding with vanilla sauce and bolo pau ice cream, it’s an irresistably fragrant and light rendition of the bolo pau that is not at all decadent to end the meal with — the ideal. Their Yoeng Zi Gam Lou dessert from the permanent menu — a buoyant, cheerful mousse take of the Mango Sago — is also a pretty good choice, but definitely ask for the former first if you are planning to visit — it’s really a one-of-a-kind last course that puts one in that kind of kid-with-candy high spirits.
The only other thing that can bring this high up to new heights is the way CCT is also opening its beautiful space up to the hosting of community events that include guest shifts from local and overseas cocktail bars, 4-hands kitchen takeovers and their biggest (and upcoming) event, a Chinese-themed Halloween happening on 31st August. Expect performances, DJs, activities, prizes and a lot more in store on the day — or just come down on an evening (except Tuesdays) if you are in the mood for some cross-border and cross-generational, gastronomic love.
Oh and the answer is yes, inspired cha chaan teng fare can be better than the real thing.
Cha Chaan Teng Presents Me Wanton More: Chinese Halloween Edition, and takes place at Cha Chaan Teng on 31 August 2024, from 4pm-1am (doors open at 345pm). Performing acts include Noisegarden, Shane2sweet, Ffauxes and more, with guest tattoo artist in residence @kang.touchthis. Presale tickets are $25 (with 1 complimentary drink) and tickets at the door at $30. Learn more here. Once you are done with this story, click here to catch up with our August 2024 issue.