Every restaurant that touts itself as serving Mod-Sin cuisine has one man to thank for bringing the term to the public consciousness — Willin Low who coined the term himself. In an obvious sense, the term is a portmanteau of Modern and Singapore but in a culinary context, Willin himself has said it is the taking apart of traditional dishes, reassembling them, and turning them on their head. Dissect, confect, perfect and next, serve it to a hungry customer to turn them happy.
Here, he takes us through his latest project titled The Kongsee, a freewheeling food factory of ideas that combines the spirit of sharing and of course, Mod-Sin cuisine.
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What I usually like to do with first-time interviewees is that I like to get them to pitch their business or brand in 10 words or less so if you could humour me.
The Kongsee is a Mod-Sin izakaya celebrating Singapore’s diverse heritage through food, drinks and convivial hospitality.
What do you think is Mod-Sin in today’s context? I was also wondering if the evolution of cuisine is like fashion; you know, how people just run out of ideas and recycle things from the past.
For me, Mod-Sin cuisine is the celebration of traditional Singaporean flavours — it is not intended to replace the traditional original dish but simply to enjoy the spirit of the original in an innovative way. This can take the form of exploring ideas and pushing boundaries, through cooking techniques, textures, or ingredients.
I take inspiration from multiple sources, and here at The Kongsee, I also take a leaf from and embrace other Asian cultures and flavours as part of this wonderful delicious melting pot that makes up Mod-Sin.
For myself, I’m constantly writing about how it’s a great time to eat again because you can go out in a big group and share food. What I noticed about The Kongsee’s menu is that well, it’s tempting to order one of everything and share. How did you “measure” the right portion for each dish?
Nothing beats drinking and sharing food with friends and family in a relaxed environment, and it is my intention for diners here to explore and order up as they go along, depending on how hungry they are, and share the goodness with their loved ones.
Whenever I eat out, I want to try as many different dishes as possible. Hence the portions are designed just big enough for tasting as a group, and small enough to order seconds if you like it enough.
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What do you think you’re trying to say with the menu then? Is this a new version of Mod-Sin cuisine for you?
The spirit of “kongsee” (sharing) is also the spirit behind Japan’s izakayas & Spain’s tapas bars – delicious small bites to relish with good drinks and conversation. Over the years, the way I eat has evolved, and I increasingly find myself enjoying food shared with lovely company in a communal way.
As a Mod-Sin izakaya, I approach the menu here like how I imagine if I were a diner eating in such a place. And adding to this equation, the latest installment of local cuisine at The Kongsee pays homage to the melting pot of cultures in Singapore in the form of playful and unpretentious small plates, together with my love of Japanese and Thai flavours.
Is there perhaps, an interesting story behind one of the dishes? Or something that took a long time to R&D?
I love ceviche and I have done many dishes with Thai-inspired savoury ice cream at my omakase dinners so I decided to combine the two and voila! Our Tom Kha Gai Ceviche is born.
What I thought was interesting too was that the restaurant’s design is neither “high-end” nor “low-end”. It’s quite urban chic which is a concept that hasn’t been done in a while.
We want The Kongsee to evoke a sense of industrial shophouse chic, with the dynamic energy of the streets. As diners step into its sultry underground interiors, one’s senses embark on an adventure. From elements that evoke nostalgia such as Peranakan-tiled tables and HDB-gate railings to dozens of red paper airplanes peppering the ceiling, signifying an ode to travel.
On top of that, there is the unmissable vibrant graffiti art by award-winning street artist Zero adorning the walls and enveloping the space with an urban soul.
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Based on the press release, I have a theory that The Kongsee’s menu might reflect Singapore as the crossroads of cuisine: everything people love from around the world in one menu. Would you agree?
Absolutely. It offers a modern Singaporean experience like no other, one that both locals and expats will find familiar yet intriguing elements, and that every foreign visitor must-have.
What’s next for you?
For some reason, my immediate projects are all linked to alcohol. First up, I have been working with a sake brewery in Japan to blend a sake that will pair with Singaporean food. Next, I will be working with a bourbon distillery to create a Singapore-inspired bourbon, followed by a local craft beer.
I will also need to go to Japan to check on the equipment in my restaurant Roketto Niseko (which has been shut for the last 2 years because of the COVID-19 situation), and determine whether everything is ready should we open next winter!
Out of curiousity again, do you know the #1 song on your Spotify last year?
It was “Again” by Lee Sang Soon.
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