Montblanc Watch Division managing director Laurent Lecamp dissects the underlying message of this year’s novelties.
Is there a common theme that unites this year’s novelties? My observation is that exploration is the underlying message — the Iced Sea encourages one to dive deep, the 1858 Geosphere urges one to travel outdoors, and the 1858 unveiled Minerva Chronograph takes one back to Minerva’s glory days.
Laurent Lecamp: It’s very clear. We’re exploring the world, but we’re doing this in a way that is always in accordance with our roots. The (Montblanc Iced Sea 0 Oxygen) Deep 4810 is inspired by the world of mountaineering, even if we’re going to the depths of the oceans. We are going minus 4810 metres since the altitude of the Mont Blanc mountain is 4810 metres. Our key Mark Maker is Reinhold Messner — the first to climb the 14 highest summits in the world, the eight-thousanders, with no supplemental or additional oxygen. And what are we doing? A watch with no oxygen inside.
We’re still living with the concept of mountaineering but applying it in the world of diving. Why? The reason is William Trubridge, our new Mark Maker. He has dived 102 metres unaided in one single breath with no additional oxygen. Do you see the connection? No oxygen for Messner, no oxygen for Trubridge. We’re still in the universe of Montblanc but pushing the boundaries to a level nobody expected us to be, and we’re doing this at a high level.
The Deep 4810 is powered by a manufacture movement with 120 hours power reserve that has COSC, ISO 6425 and zero oxygen certification, something that none of the other dive watches have. We’re going deeper with Minerva’s innovations this year, such as a new chronograph without pushers. We’re exploring new routes because our Mark Makers like William Trubridge and Reinhold Messner explored new routes before finding the summit.
Laurent Lecamp: The (Montblanc Iced Sea 0 Oxygen) Deep 4810 is inspired by the world of mountaineering.
Was it difficult to engineer the Deep 4810 because the water resistance went from 300M with the previous Iced Sea to 16 times deeper at 4810M?
Absolutely, because how can you find the equipment to certify that you’re going 4810m plus an additional 25% deep when no one in Switzerland could test it for us? So we had to develop and officially certify all the equipment so that we could prove that our watches were tested up to 6000m deep. There are currently two key names in this industry capable of doing this, but Montblanc is now showing that we can develop this innovation to the maximum.
You wore an example of the Zero Oxygen watch late last year when you completed the ice marathon in Antarctica. Are you now absolutely convinced that the concept really works beyond scientific theories and lab testing?
I’m 100% convinced. When I was in Antarctica, in the glacier camp with Simon Messner — son of Reinhold Messner — we decided to run a marathon together. The surrounding temperature was -30 degrees, and the tent we slept in was 15 to 20 degrees. Imagine the 40- or 50-degree temperature swing when you’re heading outside. We observed that many mechanical watches had issues with droplets appearing inside the watch. How did we manage it? Zero oxygen because the environment makes it impossible to have droplets due to the humidity inside the watch when the temperature changes.
So, the zero oxygen concept works. We were referring to this watch for the time while running the 42km marathon at -30 degrees. We came in seventh at the end, and I’m very proud of the ranking. [Laughs]
We are seeing the Montblanc 1858 Geosphere 0 Oxygen CARBO2 in the flesh. I don’t think anyone expected the Only Watch concept seen last year to be translated into an everyday piece. What was running through your mind when you first saw the renders and finally saw the watch in person?
It’s like a birthday gift. The concept is very strong not only in terms of material but also in terms of luminescence. The new material mixes CO2 and carbon fibre with these signature touches. We are combining a new material with a new approach in terms of branding because here we are signing with the face of Mont Blanc mountain without mentioning the Montblanc name.
What is your favourite feature of all these? Is it a feature or the idea of the innovation?
I love the (mountain) outline but also the case for sure because it’s a new material that doesn’t exist in any industry worldwide. We mixed CO2 from Switzerland with carbon fibre — and on top of it — we have the outline of the Mont Blanc mountain.
With so many novelties planned for a year, how do you encourage creativity and innovation without having your teams facing burnout?
It’s an excellent question. First of all, the key to success is to keep in mind that perfection does not exist. We should always try to touch perfection even knowing that we will not manage to. The team is always together in meetings or other leisure activities such as fondue dinners in the mountains or running the mountains with my colleagues.
Each person has the right to explain or share an idea, and I examine its core with the team. You cannot leave someone aside. If there’s a strong idea, you have to share it with others. I have to say that creativity is there if you give people the opportunity to express themselves. Being too strict kills creativity at times. I have a lot of ideas; it’s clear I’m a creative guy, but without the team, I will never be successful. Together with a team, we are creating the roots for tomorrow’s success. I’m here to give direction, but we work as a team to know precisely how this direction could be developed.
The Montblanc 1858 The Unveiled Minerva Monopusher Chronograph; Laurent Lecamp: Every year, we develop a new complication for Minerva that has never been done before.
How many years of visibility ahead does the Montblanc watch division work on? Are there fears that certain gambles might backfire, and how do you navigate that if that happens?
Five years for Minerva and three years for Montblanc. It’s clear because, for Montblanc, we see the products with a new concept. The Iced Sea with the glacier dial and the zero oxygen concept works extremely well; we are working on new developments for the years to come, knowing that we have a big demand.
Every year, we develop a new complication for Minerva that has never been done before by Minerva or any other brands. This year we’re launching a patented reverse monopusher chronograph without pushers. We’re coming next year with another complication, and the year after with another. We’re innovating a lot.
Once we launch a new product, it will be around for many years and will never be discontinued. Everything I’ve launched since I joined the company more than three years and a half now, are still here and active. We have reduced the number of novelties dramatically by two thirds but we’re developing something strong in terms of innovation, perceived value and innovation with the team together.
Laurent Lecamp: The Iced Sea with the glacier dial and the zero oxygen concept works extremely well.
This year is an important year for Montblanc, celebrating 100 years of the Meisterstück. How much of this Montblanc universe does the Montblanc watch division draw inspiration from?
I’m the global managing director for Montblanc watch division, but since one month and a half now, I am the interim in charge of Montblanc’s writing instrument division. It was important for me to connect these two categories.
We launched the Nicolas Rieussec Meisterstück as part of the 100 years anniversary that is inspired by the world of writing. The word chronograph comes from the Latin words chrónos and grafí which means writing the time. So what is the best example, there is no better product than the Nicolas Rieussec — the first ink chronograph in the world that writes time.
To celebrate the 100th anniversary, we have developed a watch with subtle touches of the Meisterstück such as the calligraphic writing and sketches on the dial and case back. These are little touches to remind you about the Meisterstück.
My last question is probably the toughest one. Is there a personal favourite from this year’s novelties?
Frankly speaking, it’s hard for me because it’s about the soul of the products and less so about the products themselves. It’s about what went on behind the scenes that we created together as a team.
Once you are done with this story with Laurent Lecamp, click here to catch up with our May 2024 issue.