There is something inherently poetic about gems in the way they capture light, refracted and reflected for a moment before they burst off into a constellation of brilliance. The idea that these precious stones will shine as long as there is light embodies the spirit of raw beauty, immaculate craft and an enduring allure stemmed from the desire the hold and be light. For master jewellers like Bvlgari, holding light comes in the form of creating a thorough universe that demonstrates the boundless potential of these rarified materials, manipulated to be showcased in their best light. A testament to the human imagination and Bvlgari’s artistry, the new Polychroma collection is their latest chapter in this universe, where extremes in vibrancy, design and refinement coexist.
In a celebration where stars gleamed and gems sparkled, the Bvlgari Polychroma collection was unveiled at Taormina, Sicily, through a jewellery show and performance choreographed by Sir Wayne McGregor, Resident Choreographer of The Royal Ballet and an immaculate showroom where guests got to experience the pieces up close. A former convent from the 15th century, the San Domenico Palace now houses 600 of Bvlgari’s high-end creations — 60 of which are millionaire pieces. A facet of innovation was introduced through three tech-meets-jewellery experiences, including the Polychroma Theatre created by artist Giuseppe Lo Schiavo that breathed new life to a 16th century statue, an immersive journey through Apple Vision Pro and Connected Jewellery — an initiative that showcases details of its each jewel through ultra-fine engraving, offering detailed information about its make and origins. In attendance were multi-hyphenate celebrities like Lisa, Liu Yifei, Viola Davis and Priyanka Chopra.
The name Polychroma suggests the plurality of colours — in ways that are bold, audacious and even playful at times. More than just a major flex, the way colours are used in this collection of high jewellery is intentional, emotionally-charged and meant to bring out the best of the stones’ properties. A dialogue between the past and the present, the Cosmic Vault pendant crafted from a 123.35-carat Sri Lankan sugarloaf sapphire in vivid royal blue immediately harkens back to the collective memory of Elizabeth Taylor and her 66-carat necklace. Size does not beget heft, as the collar is crafted with an intricate, yet flexible structure that enables comfortable wearability. At the same time, specifically chosen buff-top sapphires and 13 diamond drops create a visually fluid impression. If size is what moves you, then the Celestial Mosaic necklace, in all its kaleidoscopic splendour, is bound to mesmerise. A quick Google search seemingly suggests that three of the largest spinels in the world are crown jewels — the fourth largest is nestled as the focal point of this very necklace. Inspired by Jericho’s Tree of Life mosaic, a constellation of buff top emeralds, onyx, diamonds and tourmaline cascades from this vivid pink spinel epitomises a poignant type of beauty that transcends our physical existence.
High jewellery watches are also another component of Bvlgari’s Polychroma collection as they reimagine the notion of fine watchmaking through a myriad of shapes and a universe of colours. A standout piece is the Gioco di Forme e Colori, a maximalist statement that blurs the line between high jewellery and timepiece, scattering light across the boundary of both forms. Obvious Art Deco influences can be seen from the golden sunbursts and a bracelet that is reminiscent of the fan motif. When it is not playfully hidden behind a detachable brooch that serves as a dial cover, the watch face blends seamlessly into the scatter of emeralds, sapphires and garnets across varying cuts. Inspired by the octagonal coffers of the Basilica Maxentius, the Nuvole Preziose pendant features a cushion-cut yellow sapphire at the heart of the piece, a butterfly that rests on the trembler and detachable clouds that can be worn as earrings.
While conceptual and intentional in the designs, Bvlgari makes it clear that there is merit in illustrating a tale through arresting visuals. When seeing is all it takes to believe, it does not take a jewellery connoisseur to appreciate the fine work they have created, as colours have always been a universal language that brought us together, and light — even if just slowed down for a little bit — gives off glimmers of hope. Fanciful metaphors aside, what you see in Bvlgari’s infinite shapes, in all their vibrancy, is just joy in motion.
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