Watches & Wonders 2022 is well underway with participating brands releasing their novelties for 2022. Join us as we constantly update and cover the latest announcements, highlights and news from Watches & Wonders 2022.
Rolex
Perhaps the biggest news coming out from Watches & Wonders 2022 is the launch of the Rolex Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II Ref. 126720VTNR with a green and black Cerachrom bezel and left-hand crown(!). Speculation has been rife about such a configuration moments before the launch but now the news is out in the wild to great fanfare and surprise. Nobody expected this colourway to be released, let alone the left-handed crown and once again, Rolex has the last laugh. The Rolex Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II is presented in Oystersteel and Oyster or Jubilee bracelet and is powered by the Superlative Chronometer certified calibre 3285 with the date aperture and cyclops flushed to the left side of the case.
Patek Philippe
Geneva heavyweights Patek Philippe combines two of its enduring complications, the Annual Calendar and Travel Time, as it launches the groundbreaking Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Travel Time Ref. 5326G-001. This marks the first time these two patented complications are housed together harmoniously in a modernised expression of time telling. The new self-winding calibre 31-260 PS QA LU FUS 24H movement displays the annual calendar (requires a manual correction only once a year) and a dual time perfect for globetrotters. Patek Philippe devised a system that synchronises the annual calendar with the local time — any time zone correction done simultaneously adjusts the calendar. A total of eight patents are filed for the movement which together significantly reduces the chances of damaging the movement during manual corrections, a faster calendar change system and other nifty safety functions. A new Calatrava case is designed for the Ref. 5326G-001, with a hobnail pattern guilloche to the case side and a vintage-inspired textured charcoal dial.
Cartier
Cartier embraces the mysteries of time as it releases the Masse Mystérieuse at Watches & Wonders 2022. The Haute creation combines two of Cartier’s signatures, the mysterious movement and the skeleton, into a singular entity that creates enigmatic illusions and perceptions of time. At the heart of the platinum clad Masse Mystérieuse is the calibre 9801 MC, with all the essential timekeeping components set within the oscillating weight. With the slightest of motion, the entire mass rotates in either direction, while the hands remain in an upright position. Six sapphire discs hold the key to the mystery as they perform various functions from time-setting to winding. This technical feat took the Cartier Fine Watchmaking team nearly eight years to develop and is currently one of the most complicated creations ever. A patent has been filed ensuring this mystery will remain Cartier’s for the times to come.
Cartier turned to the orient for inspiration for its latest Cartier Privé Tank Chinoise collection. After the Crash, Tank Cintrée, Tonneau, Tank Asymétrique and Cloche Cartier watches, the Tank Chinoise watch will mark the sixth instalment of Cartier Privé. Highlighting the beauty of traditional Chinese windows, Cartier offers a splitting resemblance with an open-worked dial housed in a true-to-form rectangular case. Coloured lacquer is then applied to the dial grilles for a play of depth. Six iterations of the Cartier Privé Tank Chinoise are created, three with skeletonised and lacquered dials, and three in solid dial configurations.
The Cartier Tank Louis Cartier needs no further introduction as the pure lines, perfect form and precise proportions come together for a true classic. The timeless creation is presented in monochromatic dials, the first in the Maison’s signature red and the other in anthracite grey. A special electrochemical engraving technique is applied to the dial creation that offers a stellar play of light depending on the light and viewing angle. These series of patterning come to life when colour is treated, the red with lacquering while the grey is galvanised. A further multi-layered gloss decal is applied as the finishing touch for a truly sensorial visual appeal. This contemporary creation is further amplified by four Roman numeral indexes as the signature rail track is omitted. The Cartier Tank Louis Cartier red and anthracite grey are released in yellow and pink gold respectively.
Ulysse Nardin
At the start of the new millennium in 2001, a Freak was born into the horology world as Ulysse Nardin presented a creation unlike any other. The Ulysse Nardin Freak was the brainchild of Carole Forestier Kasapi, turned into reality by the likes of legendary watchmaker Ludwig Oechslin. 21 years later and several iterations after, Ulysse Nardin releases the latest evolution of the Freak with the Ulysse Nardin Freak S. Provocative, revolutionary, and unconventional, the Ulysse Nardin Freak S epitomises those values with its unique structural form reminiscent of a spacecraft. Technically, the new UN-251 Manufacture movement showcases the brilliance of Ulysse Nardin’s Silicium technology. A pair of Silicium balance wheels linked by a differential is set on a 20° incline as part of the rocket’s wing. Both waltz together to give higher accuracy as any possible variance is averaged out by the two elements. Time telling is done with an arrow covered pip indicating the hour while the nose of the rocket cone displays the minutes. Over an hour, the entire rocket structure rotates on its central axis for a truly visual spectacle that only Ulysse Nardin can conceive.
Jaeger-LeCoultre
Perhaps one of the cult collections of Jaeger-LeCoultre and one amongst the watch collecting community, the Memovox Polaris was an icon from the day Jaeger-LeCoultre began production in the 1960s. A hiatus later ensued until 2018 when the Polaris was reintroduced once again to Jaeger-LeCoultre. After several iterations, Jaeger-LeCoultre is pleased to introduce the latest example of the Polaris housing a high complication for aficionados, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Perpetual Calendar. A new calibre 868AA is the brain behind the perpetual calendar as it accounts for the various number of days of the month without a need for manual adjustments. The date, day of the week, month, year and double moon phase are housed harmoniously in four sub-registers. At the top of the watch dial is a red-pip inner rotating bezel characteristic of the historical Polaris, allowing its owner to set elapsed time using the top crown. Time setting is done via the bottom crown while the middle one controls the perpetual calendar. True to the adventure-seeking nature of the original Memovox Polaris, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Perpetual Calendar is very much created in the same vein although the blue lacquered dial gives it a touch of elegance. Two versions of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Perpetual Calendar in either stainless steel (seen here) or pink gold are created.
IWC
IWC, one of the original pioneers of coloured ceramic, is pleased to unveil two new exclusive colour variations to its ceramic creations with the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph TOP GUN Edition “Lake Tahoe” and the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph TOP GUN Edition “Woodland”. Working with Pantone, the two colour shades are officialised as IWC Lake Tahoe and IWC Woodland with the former recalling the white wintry landscapes of Lake Tahoe and the latter mimicking the rich green vegetation of mountainous regions. Both editions are encased in ceramic with the Lake Tahoe featuring a contrasting black dial while the Woodland is made in a tonal execution. The IWC-manufactured calibre 69380 with automatic chronograph is the choice of movement for both watches and given the technical challenges of producing coloured ceramics, only 1000 pieces of each colour will be produced annually.
H. Moser & Cie.
Two distinct colours come together as H. Moser & Cie., celebrates traditional skills and expertise with the H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Centre Seconds Concept Lime Green. The Neuhausen watchmaker revisits its fumé dials as it pays tribute to the art of enamelling in a modernised approach to colours. A gold dial is first hammered to create a grained patterning before three powder colour pigments are arranged on the dial for an ombré effect. A ‘Grand Feu’ enamelling then takes place, as the dial is fired in a furnace 12 times during which the colours meld and oxidise harmoniously without pixelating. Given the painstaking and manual manufacturing procedure, each dial is truly unique unto itself. All other dial elements are omitted, allowing the simplicity to bring out the beauty of the intense hue and striking texture of the dial. A subtle purple seconds hand is set in place as an identifier for stainless steel watches created by H. Moser & Cie. At the heart of the 40mm, steel case beats the HMC 200 automatic calibre with a double hairspring and blue balance bridge, entirely designed, developed and produced in-house.
Grand Seiko
Perhaps one of the showstoppers of Watches & Wonders 2022 is the Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-force Tourbillon. The ultra-technical creation invites you to listen to the racing pulse of Grand Seiko as Kodo is the Japanese word for the heartbeat. First materialised as a concept watch in the form of the “T0 Constant-force Tourbillon” in 2020, Grand Seiko managed to bring this masterpiece to life after many refinements and adjustments. The result is the Grand Seiko calibre 9ST1 housing a tourbillon and a constant-force mechanism combined as one unit set on a single axis, marking an unprecedented first in horological history. Beyond the visual appeal of the Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-force Tourbillon, is an aural connection as the two complications are set to a semi-quaver (16th note). The inner tourbillon carriage rotates smoothly at 8-beats per second and the outer constant-force carriage follows its rotation at exact one-second intervals for a rhythmic beat. Only 30 pieces of the Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-force Tourbillon are created and they are encased in a platinum and Brilliant Hard Titanium case.
Vacheron Constantin
Vacheron Constantin invites you to travel 45 years back to 1977 as it unveils the Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222. The original 222 watch, designed by Jorg Hysek, was released to commemorate the Genevan watchmaker’s 222nd anniversary in 1977. It signalled Vacheron Constantin’s foray into the world of “sporty-chic” watches and was bestowed legendary status amongst the watch collecting community since then as it became the inspiration for the now-emblematic Vacheron Constantin Overseas collection. The particular 222 Ref. 44018 in 18K 3N gold was the point of reference for this stunning re-edition as details such as the case dimensions and material, fluted bezel, Maltese cross stamp and integrated bracelet construction were retained. Contemporary updates then populated the Historiques 222 such as Super-LumiNova coated hands and hour-markers and the use of a higher frequency calibre 2455/2 decorated with a fluted motif oscillating weight specifically developed for this model.
Hublot
Hublot marks a new chapter in its history books as it launches its first-ever square watch dubbed the Hublot Square Bang Unico. Square-shaped watches were absent from Hublot’s collection since they first began but this collection will rewrite that narrative. The modular square case construction is the foundation of the Hublot Square Bang Unico, allowing the upper and lower plates to be effortlessly transformed or combined in various permutations. Six functional screws are responsible for holding the case together. From there, a sandwich dial construction, with the use of a sapphire dial, offers views and sensations of depth to the Unico movement. The Hublot Square Bang Unico uses the same materials as its Big Bang counterpart, including titanium, ceramic and King Gold, not to mention the famous ‘All Black’ finish. As with new Hublot watches, the Hublot Square Bang Unico features the One Click system for easy strap interchangeability.
Tudor
Tudor’s range of Black Bays just got bigger with the introduction of the Tudor Black Bay Pro. The new technical model houses Tudor’s Manufacture Calibre MT5652 with built-in GMT function and sees the familiar unidirectional dive bezel make way for a fixed steel GMT bezel. A pair of Tudor’s “Snowflake” hands make an appearance with the other flushed in an eye-catching yellow representing the GMT hand. Other subtle refinements added to the Black Bay Pro include a redesigned knurled crown, applied hour markers made from monobloc luminous ceramic and a new bracelet clasp with a Tudor’s “T-fit” rapid size-adjustment system. The Tudor Black Bay Pro is available in either a steel bracelet, a hybrid rubber and fabric strap or a black fabric strap.
Grand Seiko
Grand Seiko presents the Grand Seiko Evolution 9 collection at Watches & Wonders 2022 as it sets the vision for the future of Grand Seiko’s technical development. Five models, all fitted with Grand Seiko Spring Drive calibres, are released as part of this milestone. Shown here from left to right are the black variants namely the Spring Drive GMT SBGE283, Spring Drive Chronograph GMT SBGC251 and Spring Drive Diver SLGA015. All three pieces are regulated to exceptional accuracy with daily deviations limited to ±0.5 seconds per day. As with all Spring Drive movements, the seconds hand glides effortlessly without a shudder as it promises to mesmerise even the geekiest of watch nerds. These pieces are encased in high-intensity titanium with matching bracelets which are 30% lighter and offer a brighter lustre than stainless steel.
TAG Heuer
Driven by light, TAG Heuer forays into new frontiers as it releases its first-ever solar-powered watch — the Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph. Following the reimagining of the Aquaracer collection last in 2021, the Solargraph gives new meaning to ‘made for outdoors’ with a solar-powered timepiece. Powered by the calibre TH50-00 produced by Manufacture La Joux-Perret exclusively for TAG Heuer, power generation has been optimised to ensure maximum performance as it absorbs both sunlight and artificial light. Two minutes under sunlight can power the watch for one full day, while a fully charged capacity ensures the watch operates autonomously for six months. Should the Solargraph stop working after prolonged idle time, 10 seconds of light exposure will kick start its movement. The Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph features a black DLC coated stainless steel case with a bezel insert made of a blend of carbon and green SuperLumiNova.
The second chapter of the TAG Heuer X Porsche partnership materialises with the TAG Heuer Carrera X Porsche Limited Edition. The latest limited edition model pays tribute to Porsche’s emblematic yellow, reserved for its sportiest cars. Red accents seen on the first model made way for yellow while the metallic bodywork of Porsche’s cars is recreated on the dial. Given the strong association both TAG Heuer and Porsche share with motorsports, two sub-dials feature an asphalt texture. Other Porsche influences include an oscillating mass shaped like the Porsche steering wheel, set on the Calibre HEUER 02 Automatic movement and a textile inspired leather strap with double stitching inspired by the seat upholstery of Porsche cars.
Panerai
One of the big news filtering out from Panerai at Watches & Wonders 2022 this year is the release of the Panerai Submersible QuarantaQuattro. QuarantaQuattro, otherwise known as 44 in English, is a nod to the Submersible’s new 44mm case diameter. The 44mm variant continues the narrative of Panerai refreshing the dimensions of its collections, having already done so with the release of the Panerai Luminor Marina Quaranta late last year. Click here for the full scoop of the Panerai Submersible QuarantaQuattro!
Hermès
Hermès gives new definition to the spirit of travel with the Hermès Arceau Le temps voyageur. A fantasy map, imagined by Jérôme Colliard for the “Planisphère d’un monde équestre” silk scarf adorns the dial housing a “Travelling time” mechanism with a disc-type display of 24 time zones developed exclusively for Hermès. The mobile counter and the home time indication at 12 o’clock is driven by a 122-component module, measuring just 4.4mm thick, which is integrated within the Hermès H1837 mechanical self-winding movement. Two Hermès Arceau Le temps voyageur models are released, the first in a larger 41mm-diameter platinum version with a matt black DLC-treated titanium bezel and a 38mm steel iteration – are fitted with alligator or Swift calfskin straps made in Hermès Horloger’s own workshops.
Montblanc
Coming out of Montblanc is the brand’s first-ever certified diving watch dubbed the Montblanc 1858 Iced Sea Automatic Date. Recalling the frozen lakes and icy glacial waters, the dial was specially designed to mimic an interlocking network of crystals, giving the illusion of looking into the depths of a glacier. As with all dive watches, the Montblanc 1858 Iced Sea Automatic Date features a unidirectional rotating bezel crafted with a bicolour ceramic insert. The 41mm diver is presented in blue, green, and black and comes paired with either a stainless steel bracelet or rubber strap.
A. Lange & Söhne
The story of the A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus expands further as the revered German watchmaker releases the A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus in titanium. This episode marks the very first time A. Lange & Söhne is working with the alloy favoured for its lightweight and tough properties befitting of the Maison’s flagship sports watch. The 250-piece limited edition creation is paired with an ice-blue dial complementing the greyish hue of titanium. A. Lange & Söhne’s calibre L155.1 Datomatic powers the Odysseus, providing 50-hours of power reserve and displays the date and day of the week in two oversized apertures. Setting both calendar elements can be done through the pushers integrated along the side of the case.
Zenith
With the unveiling of the Zenith Chronomaster Sport in 2021, Zenith once again set a new gold standard for automatic sporty chronographs. Crowned with the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève 2021 “Chronograph” prize, the Chronomaster Sport is reinterpreted with a precious allure as it is clad in 18-carat rose gold with a matching rose gold bracelet. A yin and yang option is available as Zenith presented this stunning creation with either a black-lacquered dial or a matte white dial, both with Zenith’s signature tricolour registers. The Zenith Chronomaster Sport launch does not stop there as a two-tone variation with silver-toned sunray dial and a boutique exclusive Zenith Chronomaster Sport in stainless steel and tricolour bezel are released. All pieces are fitted with the high-frequency Zenith El Primero 3600 automatic movement.
Once you’re done with this story about the Watches & Wonders 2022 Novelties highlight, click here to catch up with our March 2022 issue!
RELATED ARTICLES
Hot and Unbothered
Givenchy's Hard Carry Is the Voyou
