Dr Kong Yan Ling (a Ministry of Health accredited consultant dermatologist who works with the good people at DS Skin & Wellness Clinic) shares the popular view of what great skin should feel and look like — neither too dry nor oily while looking radiant and glowing. The skin also has to have minimum blemishes (slightly difficult), small pores (moderately difficult) and little to no sensitivity (highly difficult).

The rising concern with the state of one’s skin is another factor. One can be born with skin that flares up with the simplest of stimuli or he can slowly develop it as he muddles through the mess of an incorrect skincare routine. Dr Kong describes it in greater detail, “To summarise, skin types refer to the general condition of the skin and is dependent on factors like how sensitive the skin is, the level of oil secretion and how hydrated it is. Skin states refer to the temporary appearance or sensation of the skin and may be affected by both internal factors like age and stress, coupled with external factors like the climate, skincare products and one’s lifestyle.”

Instantly brightening one’s skin without a biting sensation (the Vitamin C used is highly stabilised even when one is down to the last remaining drops), the water-like toner aka RE:ERTH Calming Toner also refines the pores (Japanese white turmeric leaf and root extract) while reducing redness and sensitivity.

“Though this concept of skin states is fairly new, I think it is quite interesting! The idea that our skin state is dynamic can be refreshing and prevents people from limiting themselves only to products suitable for their perceived skin types (example: using only what is deemed suitable for dry or oily skin). Understanding our skin state also allows us to better address our skin concerns.”

“However, there are three factors that affects the state of one’s skin. Nutrition albeit with limited research on the impact it has on our skin. However, foods rich in anti-oxidants like spinach, carrots and artichokes can theoretically promote healthy skin. Fatty fish rich in Omega-3 fatty acids can also keep the skin supple and moisturised and prevent dry skin. Conversely, diets that are rich in refined sugars, processed foods and unhealthy fats have been reported to result in dull skin.”
Formulated for all skin types (even if one has ultra-sensitive skin), the Codex Antü Refreshing Gel Cleanser uses a formula that has been specifically designed to smooth, protect and reduce oiliness. However, it does not foam heavily owing to its omission of stripping sulphates.

“Tobacco smoke can result in oxidative stress and lead to premature skin ageing. Smokers are more prone to developing wrinkles, dry skin and uneven skin tone. Exercise can promote the delivery of much- needed nutrients and oxygen to end-organs like the skin by improving blood circulation. This in turn keeps the skin bright and healthy.

Adequate sleep gives our skin the much needed time to recover from damage and inflammation. Lack of sleep can also result in eye redness and under-eye circles which can make individuals look more lethargic and older than they are.”

35-year-old Cheon-Jong wild ginseng used in the The History of Whoo Cheongidan Kun Hwa Yang Skin boosts the vitality and moisture level of one’s skin while Sam Yang Chi Beob (a blend of three traditional medicines) relieves signs of fatigue and stress. As a post-shaving lotion, it soothes redness and irritation.

“Thirdly, the use of harsh products can damage skin cells and render the barrier function of the skin less effective. This results in dry and irritated skin, and predisposes the individual to develop itchy red rashes.”

Think of a skin-type rebalancing skincare routine as a game of green light red light. If there is even slight itchiness or redness, it is a red light to stop. If there are no reactions after two to five minutes, it is a go.

Two kinds of hyaluronic acid (a micro and a macro) used in the Comfort Zone Sublime Skin Cream work on the upper layer of the skin’s dermis to deliver the right amount of hydration for severely irritated or scorched skin — expect defined contours with regular use too.

To target today’s two main skin state problems (congested and acne-prone skin are probably more prevalent coupled with sun exposure that is probably the main external factor), Dr Kong’s solution is simple. “In addition to the regular use of a moisturiser to provide hydration, two other products that would allow our skin to function at its best — in my opinion — are a gentle cleanser and sunscreen. A good cleanser can remove impurities and makeup from the skin, yet is gentle enough to do so without stripping the skin of essential oils and drying it out. I generally recommend cleansers that do not contain harsh surfactants and are fragrance-free. A broad-spectrum sunscreen that protects against UVA and UVB can also help prevent premature skin ageing, pigmentation and sunburn.”

A coin-sized amount (50 cents for wider faces and 20 for smaller ones) of the MT Metatron MT First Step Lotion instantly soothes dry and itchy patches on one’s face while strengthening the skin’s barrier. The lotion even protects against bacterial infections making it useful for cuts and scrapes.

Alas, if one is thinking of drinking more water to optimum balance, that is another myth that Dr Kong is ready to bust. “There is inadequate research to prove that drinking water can directly impact our skin’s hydration or appearance. This is because the water we drink does not automatically go to our skin but instead gets filtered by the kidneys into the bloodstream. Nonetheless, adequate water intake allows our bodies to function optimally and ensure that much-needed nutrients can reach the skin through good blood flow.”

Using any of these six products might form a part of the solution but remember: irritation is a red flag and an immediate sign of soothing is something one should always to look out for — regardless of the circumstances one is in.

This story about the state of skin first appeared in our October 2021 issue.