When Suzanne Santos first co-launched Aesop 34 years ago, she might have not known how truly big the brand would become. It spawned hundreds of thousands of tagged posts on the ‘gram (most of them interestingly reflecting the aesthetic on the brand’s Instagram itself), created a cult-like lifestyle in itself (to use an Aesop product means that you have good tastes in everything else) and is regarded as one of the most beautiful smelling products in the market.
Sure, every Aesop product works owing to its formulation (the dark brown glass bottles extends it shelf life while reducing the artificial preservatives needed) and the perceived lifestyle it creates is beautiful. With the new Aesop Parsley Seed Anti-Oxidant Intense Serum, the tide has slightly turned with the brand.
Firstly, a launch by Aesop itself is exciting because they usually take their time to create one (no disrespect as it means they’ll immediately score a winning goal when they do) and secondly, the Aesop Parsley Anti-Oxidant Intense Serum combines two sometimes disparate effects. An anti-oxidant efficacy and the lightness of a film that acts an an environmental barrier
Here, Samy Hamada, the brand’s R&D Head takes us through the science.
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If you could deliver an elevator pitch on the wonders of parsley seed, we would kindly… like you to do it please.
It was through research detailing the significant anti-oxidant properties of parsley seed essential oil — an extract of Carum Petroselinum — that inspired us to explore ways to incorporate this potent ingredient in our skin care formulations.
We have always sought to use essential oils in a meaningful way, making the most of their distinctive properties. What stood out to us is the efficacy and wide-reaching suitability of Parsley Seed oil that has resulted in a range of skin care products that focus on the generous measures of anti-oxidant fortification it offers and the benefits of lessening the effects of daily environmental aggressors. Since our first Aesop Parsley Seed product launch in 2001, we have developed a comprehensive range of much-loved formulations to cleanse, tone and hydrate — including a deep-cleansing masque and targeted preparations for the eye area.
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Our latest formulation, Parsley Seed Anti-Oxidant Intense Serum marks a significant addition to the range in that it offers enhanced anti-oxidant efficacy with the introduction of a lightweight breathable film that also acts as an environmental barrier.
Regarding the film that coats the skin post-use, it sounds thick and heavy — is it perhaps an invisible one that’s weightless?
The Aesop Parsley Seed Anti-Oxidant Intense Serum is indeed weightless — even though it has film forming properties. It is a fortifying daily-use hydrating serum, ideal for city dwellers and those seeking an alternative to the weight and texture of cream or oil- based moisturisers.
The serum not only confers anti-oxidant-enriched hydration, it also imparts a light, non-occlusive film to help minimise deposition of skin-aggravating particulates and facilitate their easier removal during cleansing at day’s end. Extracts of Tara Gum and Red Algae work together to deliver this breathable but nonetheless efficacious film, imperceptibly and invisibly safeguarding the skin.
How does it protect the skin then and for how long?
One of the products key attributes is its ability to deliver impressive anti-oxidant benefits that have particular heightened relevance for use in urban environments, where the skin can come under stress. This is a result of combining considered ingredients that work together to fortify and nurture the skin — Grape Seed, Green Tea and Parsley Seed extracts, supported by nourishing Tocopherol (Vitamin E).
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What also makes this product interesting is its ability to deliver sustained moisture-binding efficacy, that of which is perhaps unexpected for a product with this light texture.
To addresses the needs of skin exposed to environmental stressors, the formula is designed to fortify and bolster the skin with considerable measures of anti-oxidants to counter the detrimental effect of oxidative stress, and preventing the “landing“ of airborne particulates with a light, non-occlusive, flexible film. This film also ensures easier removal of those particulates during cleansing, while during the day, the serum’s breathable film provides an effective environmental barrier that is flexible enough to cope with the rigours of a day’s wear without needing to be reapplied during the day.
What is exactly so harmful about city pollution? How does it affect the skin?
The skin is our interface with the external environment, and as such our skin is subject to daily onslaught from environmental aggressors. For all the beauty, life and vigour of the city, never is this truer than for those living in urban environments. One of the most important considerations for urban dwellers is to be mindful of the effects of your environment. In urban settings skin is vulnerable to a range of environmental factors and the stresses — of all kinds — of city living, can heighten its susceptibility to oxidative stress.
Airborne gases and particulates — such as dust, pollen and other particulates and detritus of urban landscapes — all have potential to contribute to increased production of reactive oxygen species, leading to oxidative stress. Oxidative stress has potential to compromise the lipid “mortar” of the stratum corneum, adversely affecting the barrier properties of the skin. This can lead to skin dehydration — as water loss increases — as well as a greater propensity for reactivity, sensitivity and aggravation.
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Of note is the effect of particulates, which have potential to aggravate the skin — known consequences of which include hyperpigmentation, reactivity, dull or patchy appearance and loss of skin suppleness, resilience. These are the typical ways in which our skin shows its discontentment, alerting us to the need to impart measures of anti-oxidant enriched hydration, to fortify and nourish it. Meaningful inputs of anti-oxidants are included in Parsley Seed Anti-Oxidant Intense Serum to help fortify skin and counter the detrimental effect of oxidative stress. A considered combination of Grape Seed, Green Tea and Parsley Seed extracts, supported by nourishing Tocopherol (Vitamin E), work to bolster and nurture the skin.
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With an understanding of the influence the environment has on our skin we saw an opportunity to build in additional layers of efficacy to support and complement these key anti-oxidant benefits: benefits that are a central part of the Parsley Seed Skin Care range. Through careful use of film-forming ingredients in the Aesop Parsley Seed Anti-Oxidant Intense Serum — to create a light, non- occlusive and flexible film — we can also help to minimise the “landing” of airborne particles and particulates which can aggravate skin.
This film has the added benefit of facilitating the swift removal of these particles during cleansing at the end of the day. We recommend Parsley Seed Facial Cleansing Oil or Parsley Seed Facial Cleanser, formulations designed for use in polluted urban environments, to lift impurities and thoroughly refresh the skin. Lastly, the product provides sustained hydration and nourishment to support the inherent barrier properties of the skin, and to confer greater resilience in urban environments.
How did you come about parsley seed?
We always seek to find the best possible ingredients and it was through considerate research that we discovered the significant anti-oxidant properties of Parsley Seed essential oil — an extract of Carum Petroselinum. It was this that inspired us to explore ways to incorporate this potent ingredient in our skin care formulations and eventually evolve to a family of Parsley Seed products. Collectively and individually these products focus on the generous measures of anti-oxidant fortification Parsley Seed offers, helping to ease the effects of daily environmental aggressors.
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Formulations to cleanse, tone and hydrate are available within the suite products in addition to a deep-cleansing masque and targeted preparations for the eye area, allowing customers to form a skin care regime using products from the whole family.
To be honest, it sounds a little “tech-y” for Aesop which in my opinion, usually just produces a simple formula that works great. What was the most difficult part of the formula? Is any skin type compatible with it?
We were always very determined to create this product as part of our Parsley Seed Skin Care range. This also meant we had a remarkable palette of ingredients to work with. From our initial research, we were focused on creating a stable serum base, with sustained hydrating efficacy and appropriate sensory properties, essentially a formula that had a lightweight texture, fast absorbing skin feel and refined finish.
As with any formulation, there are a number of challenges to overcome. For us, our main challenge was the fine balance between the need to include sufficient levels of film-forming ingredients — to help prevent “landing” of airborne particles —without compromising texture or skin-feel. It would be difficult to say a precise number, but there were many adjustments to the ratio of ingredients before we arrived at the final formulation as it is now.
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It’s a fantastic accomplishment to have created a formulation that not only offers enhanced anti-oxidant efficacy, but that introduces a lightweight breathable film that also acts as an environmental barrier.In reconsidering the original serum, we have elevated its purpose and relevance marking a significant innovation in our product offering.
Once you’re done with this story about Samy Hamada and the Aesop Parsley Seed Anti-Oxidant Intense Serum, click here to catch up with our September 2021 issue.
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