News flash: Bottega Veneta scrubbed all of its social media account since the beginning of January. Speculation was rife that the digital detox was in anticipation of a major event happening for the Maison — something larger than life that needed to be delivered through a screen when the time is right. Alas, it has been a month and there still has not been an official release or any word about the move.
Heralded as a brave move since creative director, Daniel Lee, reinvigorated the Italian label known for its Intrecciato weave and sent the House on an upward trajectory with his brand of au courant louche style upon his joining in July 2018, social media has often been regarded as an important player in democratising fashion — including being appreciated by people from all walks of life. Perhaps all Lee wanted to do was to fully epitomise the Maison’s brand of discreet luxury nary of overt monograms, and for his audience to truly see Bottega Veneta’s understated luxury outside of the buzz that is typically generated through digital channels today.
In hindsight, the release of the Bottega Veneta Salon 01 collection in December might have signalled the social media cleanse. Presented at the performing arts venue, Sadler’s Wells in Clerkenwell London, Lee did away with the usual fashion show setup and showed his collection on an empty stage to make way for (socially-distanced) simple chairs for the audience seating. This was done in reference to early fashion salon shows, where they presented for an audience who would shop for the fashion on the spot — hence the code-name Salon 01.
Lee’s choice of presentation was not only to highlight the notion of simplicity and intimacy in response to the global need for sensitivity, it also carried a weighted message of authenticity. Sadler’s Wells happens to be one of the world’s leading dance venues and the worlds collided with Lee’s intrinsic appreciation of the arts — he made dance costumes in his adolescent days in Bradford and was a frequent audience of dance productions while studying in London.
The salon style presentation was also reflective in its audience — a curated cast of creatives, cultural leaders and journalists — who Lee had in mind when designing the Bottega Veneta Salon 01 collection. One member is Swedish musician, Neneh Cherry who lent her chops for the spoken word soundtrack of the presentation, expounding about the importance of wearing clothes.
“It’s interesting, something that you are putting on your body, I mean, the idea it’s such a kind of intimate in a way” — one of the opening lines in Cherry’s performance provided the basis for the Salon 01 collection and Lee interpreted it through knit. Jackets, louche pants, cardigans and sweaters are brought out through loose crocheted knits and compact woven knits. They were designed to bring to mind interior furnishings and elicit the comforting reassurance of home.
The idea of “feel good to look good” was precisely the 1960s mod silhouette where knits are tailored onto structured shoulders and pants — a softness in the hard is a showcase of Bottega Veneta’s mastery of the craft. However, the devil in the knit detail lies in the fabric’s stretch that hints at the collection’s adaptability through an individual’s bodily changes.
The accessories take on the various identities of being at home. Men’s bags resemble cuddly throw pillows — roomy waistpouch with seatbelt-like buckles and The Triangle clutch — while the shoes are reminiscent of cushy home slippers. The Bottega Veneta Salon 01’s emphasis on the comfort of home is akin to wearing home on the skin — an intimacy that is constantly sought out.
The Bottega Veneta Salon 01 collection is meant to serve as a continuation from the preceding Wardrobe collection — the newness in familiarity serves to excite without dissonance. Lee’s elucidation of the importance of wearing clothes is a modest reminder of the passionate craftsmen behind the luxurious yet non-assuming collection and their aims to further bring out every individual’s beauty — away from the snaps.
This story about the Bottega Veneta Salon 01 collection first appeared in the March 2021 issue of Men’s Folio Singapore.
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