Big Dial Energy (BDE) is back once again as we follow up on last year’s edition. What makes a BDE watch? It’s one that displays a beautiful watch dial and showcases a level of taste and maturity. The curation here is new but with the new watch season just around the corner (LVMH and Seiko concluded theirs), more novelties will be announced during the second week of April, so keep an eye out for us as we cover the new wrist candies in the months to come!
Pictured above: Citizen NC0200-90E
Seemingly out of nowhere, Citizen announced a brand new watch that will be housing a newly developed in-house calibre birthed from a collaboration with Swiss group company Manufacture La Joux-Perret S.A. Affectionately known as the Cal. 0200, it is Citizen’s first mechanical movement in a decade and represents Citizen’s foray into high-end watchmaking.
While the new movement hogs the limelight, the watch deserves full praise as well. In classic Citizen style, the new watch is named NC0200-90E, though we hope it gets a new name befitting its handsome design. A first glance, it looks like Citizen has every aspect nailed down starting from the dial. A black textured surface offers a play of shadows as light hits the dial; sharp handsets and indices in silver are classics that never fail. The choice of a subsidiary seconds dial and integrated steel bracelet are tasteful additions that set you apart from the crowd.
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Seiko Presage Sharp Edge GMT
Seiko’s impressive portfolio of timepieces continues to excite as the recently concluded Seiko Summit saw a slew of highlights released. Though the 1959 Alpinist Re-creation may have left a sour note amongst one or two diehard Seiko fans, the Seiko Presage GMT Sharp Edge is surely tonic for their souls.
Loosely inspired by their Grand Seiko big brothers (SBGE257, SBGE255, and SBGE253), the Sharp Edge GMT are no pushovers as they feature serious design chops. Seiko’s direction for the year is guided by Japan’s picturesque landscapes and nature and sees the Japanese Asanoha or “hemp leaf” pattern recreated on the dial. The entire collection consists of five pieces based on different traditional Japanese colours — Shironeri, an unbleached silky white; Aitetsu, or indigo iron; Tokiwa, the color of evergreen trees; Susutake, a brown-toned smoked bamboo and Sumiiro, the color of India ink. The series features a travel-friendly GMT hand, pointer date at six o’clock and a nifty power reserve indicator at nine o’clock.
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B&R 03-92 White Camo
Purveyors of military cool and with roots steep in aviation, Bell & Ross creates iconic time instruments for professional settings. The emblematic square and circle case has become a signature of the watchmaker and is the foundation for other elements to shine. Taking cues from its early Phantom and Commando military-inspired creations, the latest Bell & Ross BR 03-92 White Camo follows their footsteps with big dial energy design.
The more commonly seen green forested camouflage pattern makes way for a wintery disposition. An original tricolour scheme of white, light and dark grey are opted to form the winter alpine pattern. Large sword hands provide legibility while a matte finish across the dial and black ceramic case (a nod to Bell & Ross’s aviation codes) prevents unwanted reflections and detection. Water resistance of the watch is bumped up to 100m to provide enough protection from the harsh elements without compromising its performance.
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Zenith Defy 21 Felipe Pantone
In a bid to never stop innovating and improving, watchmakers Zenith of the legendary El Primero movement developed a turbocharged chronograph calibre for the Defy 21 launched in 2017. The El Primero 9004 within features a separate chronograph escapement independent from the timekeeping escapement — allowing the chronograph to be engineered to ultra-high speed levels. Conventional automatic watches operate at 4 Hz while the El Primero 9004 chronograph operates at a mind-boggling 50 Hz. The sight of the mechanisms operating through the skeletonised dial warrants big dial energy levels but Zenith amps it up with a special piece made with contemporary artist Felipe Pantone.
Not to be confused with the Pantone company, the Argentine-Spanish artist’s “visible spectrum concept” is manifested on the watch in the form of multicoloured bridges and hands. The application took months to develop to recreate a perfect transition of colours through an innovative 3D PVD coating that uses silicon particles. A black ceramic case with grid patterns and engraving of Felipe Pantone’s initials complete the extroverted 100-piece limited edition Zenith Defy 21 Felipe Pantone package.
Once you’re done with this story, click here to catch up with our March 2021 issue!
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