A mix of sharp tailoring, utilitarian silhouettes, graffiti and nettles make up Alexander McQueen’s dreamy Spring Summer 2023 menswear pre-collection.
Sarah Burton’s Alexander McQueen has always placed an acute emphasis on form, her tailoring severe yet almost intoxicating to admire. Yet no matter the concept, the collections are always grounded in the act of subversion — layering austerity with softness and romance, the postures of a classic suit twisted to accommodate the rebellious tendency both Burton and the namesake designer share and triumph in tender design.
So it’s no surprise to see the Spring Summer 2023 menswear pre-collection’s utilitarian shapes and lines lay peacefully beside the muted whimsy of skies from days, nights, and the outer space — a stark contrast to the warm, earthen palette of the Fall Winter 2022 collection. Monochrome suits of pale lilac, mint serge and spring blue grain de poudre, are tasked to highlight Burton’s masterful and precise cut in a timeless manner, all while contrasting with the metal eyelets that puncture everything from detachable leather harnesses and the fringe of a Monk-strap shoe, to white shirts and the lapels of jackets.
Similarly, a suit, hoodie, sweater, puffer jacket and sweater, find bold strokes of graffiti being diffused by watercolour brush strokes, mirroring the arrival of the richly hopeful beginnings that come with spring. An obsession with plants that heal also sees the nettle adorning various jackets as appliqué embroidery, gifting everything from wool gabardine trench coats to poly faille parkas an additional touch of liveliness — a joy that compares to the feeling of when the sun warms winter-cooled skin.
Elsewhere, a denim pullover shirt, a patched bomber jacket in lilac and oversized cotton shirt and shorts co-ord pull together a more laid-back interpretation of subversive craftsmanship, complete with an array of Chelsea boots and derby shoes to add a tinge of kink or mischief, while the Spirit Runner trainer appropriates even the most extravagant suits for an afternoon stroll in a park.
To be fair, the spirit of grunge has never really left Alexander McQueen, which explains why the bags and accessories have always had a bias for the splendour of silver metalware. The versatile Grip tote in various sizes plays off of the classic Four Ring clutch’s knuckle duster handle with skulls, while The Harness immediately brings to mind the distinct silhouette of The Curve, only made bigger and transformed into a backpack. An assortment of rings and the brand’s infamous ear cuffs also delights in both antique silver and dark ruthenium metal, all to punctuate looks (however lulling or steely) with an inescapable love of rebel.
Once you’re done with this story, click here to catch up with our November 2022 issue!
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