Akira Back’s newly-minted Chef de Cuisine, Chanik Chang, presents a reinterpretation of Chef Akira Back’s signature flavour profile in Korean-influenced contemporary Japanese fare.
Mention Akira Back and those familiar with world-famous contemporary Asian food joints will have their ears perked up and eyes lit. The forward-looking chef of the eponymous chain (found in more than cities worldwide) heralds the innovative movement in the world of global cuisine, and in this special refresher of his Singapore outlet, the new Chef de Cuisine Chanik Chang expands Chef Akira’s repertoire with another medley of bold flavours that challenges the taste buds in creative, while retaining a sense of familiarity and homely warmth.
The cosily dim-lit restaurant space makes for such a laid-back atmosphere, the walls that feature Chef Akira’s mother’s paintings (which he commissions from her for every store he opens) a forecast of heritage that peppers the courses served.
The signature thin crust tuna pizza started the night on a light note, before introducing Chef Chanik’s Octopus Crudo, a dish with thin octopus slices doused in tosazu, a vinegar-based Japanese dressing made with bonito dashi stock and tomato salsa.
This was particularly soft and fragrant, the sous vide octopus a welcome and juicy chew before the mains.
The following cheekily-titled Brother From Another roll was also quite memorable, the combination of the fried anago (freshwater eel) and unagi (saltwater eel) in a sushi roll was interesting conceptually and but easily enjoyed, taste-wise.
Then there was a Toro Caviar made with gochujang miso and oscietra caviar, which just felt extra refreshing and addictive to dig into.
Amongst the other renewed surf and turf combos and another standout wagyu and spicy tuna taco, the highlight of the night had to be the A4 “Tochigi” Striploin, whose (literal) facelift meant coating the tender meat in the aroma of smoked applewood.
The fragrance is undeniable, and the accompanying asparagus sticks were a well-paced moment of freshness amidst the rich flavour of the beef — quite frankly the key to a further elevation of that beloved charred smell that perhaps made the meat feel even softer (but not melting all over) than it was.
As for the sweet end to the night, the pecan miso tart proved to be quite the treat to both the eyes and the palate. The caramel miso drizzle mixed surprisingly well with the apricot ice cream, something about the zesty tart of the fruit and nuttiness of the pecan making this combination especially satisfying, leaving you to stop yourself from wanting more.
For all that you have sinned on this delectable food trip, the reserved Chef Chanik and quirky Chef Akira rest assured that this is not nearly all of the wonders they have to offer in this house of edible experiments.
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