All eyes were on Rolex on the first day of Watches and Wonders Geneva, as journalists, trade partners and the world over waited in anticipation for them to unveil the year’s creations. As with every year before release, interest remains strong, as you would imagine, while speculations and hopes run high for certain colour combinations. When all was finally unveiled, murmurs of “Did they really do that” swept across the Palexpo and soon became “Wow, they really did that”. Such was the impact of this year’s release that it overshadowed other notable releases. It is time to go through the Coronet’s heavy hitters for 2023.
Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 36
We start with possibly the most talked about watch from Watches and Wonders 2023, the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 36 “Jigsaw”. By tradition, there is a sense of regality that emanates from the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Day-Date; the watch was, after all, nicknamed the President to reflect that.
In a twist of creativity unlike anyone has ever seen in a Rolex watch, the narration turned on its head with this tongue-in-cheek creation. A multicoloured jigsaw motif dial is a reflection of the symbolic moments in life — colourful and full of joy, made possible by exquisite champlevé enamelling. The day and date apertures continue the narration with inspirational words such as ‘Love’, ‘Peace’ and ‘Hope’, replacing the day of the week, while the date numerals are replaced with 31 emojis designed especially for the model.
As with all Rolex Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 36s, the “Jigsaw” is made from precious metals and is paired with an ultra-supple President bracelet. The Everose gold variant features an orange base dial, while the yellow and white gold ones are in turquoise blue. Camouflaged amidst the colour-blocks puzzle pieces are 10 baguette-cut sapphires hour indices.
Oyster Cosmograph Daytona
As far as aesthetics are concerned, the Rolex Oyster Cosmograph Daytona can do no wrong with its suave looks. On the technical aspect, it does not fall short either, having graced the pinnacles of motorsports for 60 years. To mark the 60th anniversary of the Rolex Oyster Cosmograph Daytona, a series of updates are given, subtle yet noteworthy in their own right. The Cerachrom bezel is edged in the case material, while the sub-register counters and hour indices are slimmed for a more contemporary look. A new movement, the calibre 4131, has also been introduced as part of the milestone celebration, replacing the outgoing calibre 4130.
Calibre 4131 incorporates the Chronergy escapement, Paraflex shock absorbers and a new oscillating weight with optimised ball bearings for efficient winding. Those intrigued to see the technical marvel humming will be pleased to learn that Rolex has introduced an open case back for the first time in the headlining platinum Rolex Oyster Cosmograph Daytona. The highly prized precious metal is paired with an ice blue dial and chestnut brown Cerachrom bezel.
Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master 42
After making waves last year with the release of Rolex’s first ever titanium alloy, RLX titanium, Rolex retrofits the Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master 42 this year with the lightweight material. The seafaring timepiece was designed to handle the rigours of competitive sailing and does it even better now with the lightness and robustness of RLX titanium. Characterised by a dark grey shade, the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master 42 is matched with an intense black dial and matte Cerachrom bezel with polished raised numerals and graduations.
While titanium is notoriously hard to machine, Rolex’s expertise in material innovation sees a combination of polished and satin-finished surfaces applied to the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master 42. Given legibility is of paramount importance, broad handsets and hour indices relay precise time information even with just a glance. Ample amounts of luminescent Chromalight are applied to afford the same level of legibility, glowing blue during lowlight conditions.
Perpetual 1908
One of the more understated releases of the Rolex Perpetual 1908 got many batting their eyelids in amazement as the dressy showpiece was not what many expected to see. The Rolex Perpetual 1908 draws inspiration from Rolex’s first watches with a perpetual rotor. Its 1908 namesake is a further testament as it was the date the ‘Rolex’ trademark was officially registered in Switzerland. Refined, elegant and highly classical in style, the Rolex Perpetual 1908’s aesthetics stands out from its peers. A unique divided bezel reflects the watch’s character. Fluted on the periphery and domed on the inner half, both bezels are found throughout Rolex’s watches and are harmonised as one.
Measuring 39mm in diameter, the full 18k yellow gold case is paired with a black or white dial and a pair of alligator straps equipped with a new Dualclasp. The Rolex calibre 7140 was specially created for the Rolex Perpetual 1908; its small seconds hand offers elegance, while the Syloxi hairspring ensures superior chronometric performance. Flipping the watch reveals the beauty of the calibre visible through the open case back.
Oyster Perpetual
First, there were five, and now there is one. The colours turquoise blue, candy pink, yellow, coral red and green come together for a celebration with the aptly named Rolex Oyster Perpetual “Celebration”. The technicoloured motif riffs from the five Oyster Perpetuals from 2020, as the zesty and vibrant shades come together to celebrate positivity and vitality.
A predominantly turquoise blue lacquered dial is punctuated with orbs in varying sizes dominated by the other four colours. Some call them bubbles, others prefer balloons, but whatever you see them as, you know you are in for a celebration. The Rolex Oyster Perpetual “Celebration” is available in three variants — 41mm, 36 mm and 31mm — to fit various wrists sizes and is powered by Rolex calibre 3230.
Once you’re done with this story, click here to catch up with our April 2023 issue.
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