Men’s Folio reports live from Geneva, the cradle of fine watchmaking, on the Day 3 highlights of Watches & Wonders. Click here for Watches & Wonders highlights from Day 1 or Day 2.
Panerai Submersible QuarantaQuattro Luna Rossa Ti-Ceramitech™ PAM01466
Panerai marks an exciting chapter in their partnership with sailing team Luna Rossa with a newly released material, Ti-Ceramitech™. Born from the common passion and pursuit of innovation and excellence, the proprietary alloy forms the bedrock of the Panerai Submersible QuarantaQuattro Luna Rossa Ti-Ceramitech™ PAM01466 unveiled at Watches & Wonders 2024. Ti-Ceramitech™ took Panerai more than seven years of research and development as the Neuchâtel manufacture took inspiration from the steel parts ceramisation process employed in race boats to reduce friction and enhance its efficiency and speed significantly. Panerai’s patented titanium ceramisation process coats titanium surfaces with a dense ceramic layer through Electrolytic Plasma Oxidation, which yields a significantly enhanced hardness and fracture toughness ten times higher than traditional ceramic. Beyond the technical superiority of Ti-Ceramitech™, it exudes a distinctive blue shade inspired by the sea thanks to a specific choice of elements used in the electrolyte composition. Housed in the dive-ready Panerai Submersible case, the 44.5mm wide watch bears all the hallmarks of a Panerai dive watch with 500m water resistance and is signed with Luna Rossa on the blue sunburst dial.
Bell & Ross BR X-5 Black Titanium
Bell & Ross’ technical exponent, the BR X-5, is now met with a new high-tech twist as it is reimagined in titanium. The Bell & Ross BR X-5 Black Titanium’s multi-component case is outfitted in the lightweight alloy, imparting a new dimension to the previously all-conquering watch. Fashioned out of Grade 2 titanium, Bell & Ross engineers employed a fine micro-sandblast finish to the titanium components, resulting in a matte and texturised surface. Given that titanium exudes a characteristic grey tint, Bell & Ross paired it with a black dial for a monochromatic guise. Time telling elements such as the watch hands and hour indexes are covered with SLN X1 luminescent material for optimal readability by both day and night. Similar to its predecessors, the Bell & Ross BR X-5 Black Titanium is powered by the chronometer-certified BR-CAL.323 calibre, offering approximately 70 hours of power reserve reflected on the power reserve indicator.
Hermès Cut
Hermès’ quest to develop a new manufacture piece after the stellar success of the Hermès H08 arrives at the all-new Hermès Cut. Reflecting the modernity and urban sophistication of the Hermès H08, the Hermès Cut is considered its feminine counterpart all things considered. While certain elements of the two collections may have overlapped, the Hermès Cut bears a distinct design language upheld by sharp angles and crisp lines. Elements of the circle and sphere are teased in the watch case as both have a profound impact on each other as a result of a sharp cut from the circle’s circumference. The watch crown, embellished with a lacquered or engraved H, has been repositioned so as not to disrupt the watch case’s curvature. A similar design approach is replicated in the hour font typography, most notably seen in the digit zero. The 36mm stainless steel case is paired with an integrated bracelet featuring an interchangeable system allowing its owner to switch up to a rubber strap of white, orange, gris perle, gris étain, glycine, vert criquet, bleu jean and capucine from the Hermès palette. The Hermès Cut is released in stainless steel or in an elegant two-tone combination of steel and rose gold — with both further options with or without 56 bezel-set diamonds.
Stay tuned for more Watches & Wonders 2024 updates in the coming days. Otherwise, click here to catch up with our April 2024 issue.
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