Seamlessly blending the force of nature with the vivacity of metropolitan cities became an enchanting reality within Zegna’s SS 24 collection. With linen at the centre of the show, it cemented ZEGNA’s dedication to circular fashion.
Oasi Zegna embodies the profound commitment and eternal legacy of ZEGNA’s linen craftsmanship. The ZEGNA SS24 show revealed a stunning revelation in the blazing heat of the Italian sun at the Piazza San Fedele — occupying the middle of Milan’s bustling square.
192 bales of linen travelled from Normandy to Milan (equivalent to approximately 10,242 t-shirts if you break down the numbers)— highlighting the enormous amount of effort put into harvesting the material. That amount of material weighs close to 3,100 kilograms which is quite the overstatement, given the immense labour and cost into producing linen. However, it is an endeavour ZEGNA had set themselves up for and it epitomised the circular ethos of fashion, because these linen bales will find their way back into the production chain, skilfully transformed into the Oasi Lino within Italy’s borders.
Being surrounded by the bales while watching the show in the heat is also a fitting metaphor for the fortitude that comes with ZEGNA’s “L’OASI DI LINO” or the “Lightness of being and behaving.” It may symbolise the resilience embodied in ZEGNA’s “L’OASI DI LINO”, considering the challenges and cost associated with harvesting linen, but was this necessary? While commendable that guided by the visionary Artistic Director of the brand, Alessandro Sartori, it raises questions about the practicality and feasibility of such an extravagant display, especially in relation to the brand’s commitment to sustainable practices. Undeniably, this set up has illustrated how ZEGNA remains steadfast in its commitment to crafting premium-quality luxury fabrics, upholding the enduring legacy of its textile manufacturing origins. A century later, this esteemed brand stands tall as a frontrunner in the realm of luxurious menswear.
Prior to the historic rebranding of the esteemed Ermenegildo Zegna label, the brand had always been synonymous with the suave and refined gentleman’s wardrobe. Under the namesake label, garments were tailored suits, evoking images of distinguished power dressing gentlemen whom had unwavering propriety, poise, and impeccable manners. As menswear moves into a new era of suit dressing, that is an outdated style. With Sartori at the helm of ZEGNA, the brands codes are rewritten as they embrace the casual direction of suit fashion, away from its conventional confines — and this is noteworthy for a brand that was once known for its structured tailoring.
“At ZEGNA we keep rethinking what an efficient wardrobe should be like today, further delving into the idea of creating a system of elements — tops, bottoms, underpinnings and accessories — that can be combined and self-styled however one prefers. It’s the idea of the uniform that prompts non uniformity. The suit as matching jacket and trousers no longer applies. Today, everything goes with everything, and this frees the customer, who can play with shapes and hues. Lines are deceptively simple: we hide functional elements in the construction, bringing texture to the fore. The overall fluidity makes it all look quiet and luxurious, but the tension in the details, the richness of colors and the freedom infinite combinations suggest is not quiet at all” says Sartori.
In the ZEGNA SS24 collection, the suits take on a looser fit, and surpass the traditional suit colours of browns, blue, and beiges. With an amalgamation of neutral hues of greys, oranges and pinks, the colours are more luxe and opulent. The touch of accessory like the soft yet geometric handbags, makes it easy to imagine any outfit with it — giving the buyer the power to experiment with their style, while Zegna embarks on the creative exploration of fabrics. A homage to the past, a nod to the future.
Zegna’s keen awareness of the shifting landscape of menswear is matched by their unwavering trust in the creative vision of their artistic director. Their profound expertise in fabric innovation empowers them to continually enhance sustainable practices in their collection production. This is no easy task, given the nature of fast-fashion. It is a feat and a symbol of strength in upholding sustainability — now ZEGNA pledges to achieve the prestigious goal of certifying Oasi Lino fibers as 100% traceable by 2024, cementing its dedication to circularity.
Although Zegna has embraced its place on the public stage, listed on the NYSE since 2021, it remains a cherished family business, deeply rooted in the beliefs instilled by their founder. These beliefs dictate that the finest garments can only be born from the purest natural resources, and that companies must prioritise environmental stewardship and the well-being of those around them. Bearing the heat while witnessing the show is only a fraction of what the brand and its employees go through to make this a reality.
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