As culture evolves, a few elements stand as enduring marks of masculinity beyond the requisite emotional maturity: a defined jawline, a muscular build and… a tailored suit. You might have attended your high school prom or graduation with a fast-fashion matching blazer and trouser set, but there comes a time when a personal milestone calls for something more bespoke. Men’s Folio speaks to London-trained Shahrin Bahar, who runs his eponymous tailoring label, S Bahar, about the considerations involved when picking out your first custom suit.
WHAT’S THE PERFECT OCCASION?
According to Shahrin, most of his clients begin their journey toward their first suit when they are commemorating a momentous occasion. “They’re either getting married, receiving a promotion or starting a new job. Some start new relationships with different tailors because they want to experience the different house styles other ateliers have to offer.” The house style for S Bahar specifically features soft, structured shoulders and alternatives to a fully lined suit, which cater to a more versatile use in our hot, humid climate. “We started our business because we observed a gap in the market where tailors from parts of Europe, the UK and Japan all had their signature cuts and customers would visit certain Savile Row or Italian tailors for specific designs, whereas local tailors are more service-oriented and cater to whatever their consumers want.” A signature S Bahar suit looks like a two-piece suit, consisting of a single-breasted, two-button jacket with a lapel measuring at least 3.5 inches across. Trained in menswear at the London College of Fashion and having worked in denim and sportswear brands like Nike, Shahrin approaches tailoring with a focus on function. “Menswear has always been rooted in utility and precision, as it is meant to perform. Everything needs to serve a purpose, and good design will help answer these questions,” he shares.
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CAN I NOT JUST GET ONE OFF THE RACK?
“Ready to wear caters to everyone, but no one in particular,” says Shahrin. Because off-the-rack pieces are designed to accommodate a wide range of wearers through generic sizing, it is actually rare for something to fit perfectly. Once you enter the realm of tailoring your suit, you can either explore made-to-measure (MTM) or bespoke. MTM involves getting one’s measurements taken before adapting them to a few sizing blocks for a tailored fit, while bespoke is the ultimate form of customisation, with a pattern made from scratch. What tailoring offers is a chance for you to truly find the perfect fit based on your preferred silhouette, materials, colours, among other elements to your specification.
WHAT MAKES A GOOD SUIT?
“You can always tell from the back of the suit — it should lie smooth and flat — because there are a lot of components involved. The appearance of a slumped shoulder or a humped back can be corrected with well-made tailoring, while ready-to-wear is not able to, resulting in the look of excess fabric,” explains Shahrin. The devil is in the details, as a good suit can be ascertained from how the chest pocket falls and how the lapels drape the torso. The shirt cuff should peek at least half an inch or a centimetre beyond the jacket cuff. “The breadth of your shoulders should be reflected in how the trousers look. A conventionally masculine silhouette consists of broad shoulders and a slightly tapered waist — so with suiting, we want to elongate the silhouette, rather than exaggerating it with tight, slim trousers that result in a downturned triangle,” he adds. In essence, a good suit is not about a tight, body-contouring fit, but more about complementing one’s proportions.
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HOW DO YOU PICK OUT A SILHOUETTE?
Given the ever-changing nature of the fashion landscape, even tailoring has gone through different eras. Recall the tight, cropped suits of Dior under the direction of Kris Van Assche and Hedi Slimane of the past, to the voluminous silhouettes of Saint Laurent and Soshiotsuki in the present. How does conventional tailoring, as opposed to these fashion-led brands, react to the changing demands of consumers and, in turn, recommend a silhouette that works for the individual? “If you come to us and ask for a Soshiotsuki-style suit, then it feels like you’re asking us to do a bad rendition of their designs. From a tailor’s perspective, what we can do is really make recommendations based on what we think will look best on you,” the tailor explains. Noting that tailors now take a more designer-like approach to their work, where each offers a specific style, it is a good idea to explore their Instagram pages to understand their previous work before reaching out for a consultation. From there, picking out a silhouette comes down to use case and the budget in mind.
HOW DO YOU CHOOSE THE RIGHT COLOUR?
Shahrin does not recommend black as a first suit due to its limited versatility. “A navy or a charcoal suit allows you to explore different coloured leather shoes,” Shahrin explains. The navy blazer can then be paired with grey, charcoal or tan trousers. The following investment in a dark grey suit opens up a capsule wardrobe, allowing the user to easily mix and match their pieces. The only piece of advice? “Don’t pair your navy suit with brown or tan shoes. Keep them for your brown suits only.” A dark brown suit is also an underrated contender for those after something timeless but a little less common. In a business attire setting, having suits in these hues would allow you to effortlessly style them with a range of dress shirts, from pastel blues and pinks to stripes and beyond.
WHAT IS IT MADE OF?
WHAT IS IT MADE OF?Fabric plays a big part in determining how the suit looks, too. “For larger men, I recommend a heavier fabric so it clings to the body less and does not emphasise bulges.” Different fabrics and fabric compositions offer different weightage, but to think that linen suits are always casual and wool suits are always formal is oversimplification. A linen suit could look authoritative, and a Fresco wool suit could look casual. Albeit polyester has earned a bad rep for looking “cheap”, the introduction of technical fabrics has allowed suits to adapt to modern use cases. “British fabric supplier Holland & Sherry, too, has introduced a wool polyester blend that makes machine washing possible; while there are other high-quality wools that are coated with resin to repel water,” he shares. However, to ensure longevity, Shahrin still recommends natural fibres for their performance. “We don’t know how specific polyester fibres will last, and how they affect the fabric’s shrinking. When you pass these suits down to your grandkids, you know it will still retain its integrity, whereas we aren’t sure about how a polyester suit will hold up.” For those who are more prone to sweating, a mix of natural fibres and a breathable lining makes the suit more practical. “Wool is that one universal fabric that can be altered to different weights and weaves by how the yarns are connected, so it’s actually the ultimate performance fabric,” Shahrin explains. He likes the fabric of his suits to be at least 260 gsm (a medium to heavy fabric weightage), because anything below will drape like a summer suit. “Also, there’s no need to drive with your jacket on.”
WHAT IS IT LIKE WORKING WITH YOUR TAILOR?
When meeting your tailor, it helps to know what you want and the use case for the suit. If it is for work, this is a great opportunity to help your tailor 120 understand the number and types of suits in your rotation, so it can build on your capsule wardrobe and allow you to mix and match with current pieces or set the tone for upcoming purchases. After selecting the suit’s specifications, the tailor will proceed with the measurements. This is when their expertise comes into play, recommending clients with specific adjustments to create a flattering silhouette while honouring the original vision. The client then returns on a later date for a fitting to further refine the suit.
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CONSIDERATIONS FOR DIFFERENT BODY TYPES
For individuals, especially grooms-to-be who often go on diets to try to look their best, can tailors help to accommodate these body changes? “About eight out of 10 say that, but come back looking exactly the same,” he laughs. Citing a memorable instance in which a groom lost 18 kilograms in six months, his team witnessed the transformation during a final fitting alongside emotional family members — solidifying suitmaking as a form of artistry that transcends craft. Under normal circumstances, a tailor can easily alter a blazer up or down by one dress size. “Every seven kilograms you lose, you drop one dress size. For pants, however, we can go up to three inches of waist size,” shares Shahrin.
HOW MUCH SHOULD IT COST?
Rather than viewing it as a budget, he wants his clients to see it as investment — for work or whatever purpose the suits are meant to serve. Once that figure is set aside, they get to filter down to what works. “Your first tailored suit should cost as much as your monthly salary. If you make RM10,000 a month, then your capsule should be RM10,000, created from two suits that cost around RM4,500 each. For those who make RM200,000 a year, creating a set of suits that are maybe worth RM5,000 to RM7,000 would serve the client well through their different needs.” All his suits come with a complimentary white dress shirt to complete the look.
HOW LONG DOES IT TAKE?
Shahrin recommends a minimum timeline of four to six weeks.
HOW DO YOU TAKE CARE OF YOUR SUIT?
Only dry-clean it two or three times a year, as the harsh chemicals used in dry cleaning can weaken the fabric’s integrity. In between cleaning, freshen the suit with Fabreeze or a light steam. Ensure the suit is well ventilated before storing it in the closet with a proper suit hanger. With natural fibres, one can easily notice that wrinkles will smooth themselves out. Making the most of your suit also means styling it properly. While socks should match the trousers in hue, one should never use matching ties and pocket squares. The width of ties should also not be significantly wider than the lapel and collar. Shahrin is not a fan of pairing leather shoes and belts of different shades, as it breaks up the harmony of the look.
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