Change is afoot as fashion’s musical chairs comes to a halt. When it comes to shifts in creative direction, menswear collections and the vision they represent have always served as the tip of the iceberg in signalling where the brand is headed. Often, they reflect a calculated risk or a tamer approach that holds more tightly to the brand’s core values, in consideration of their male consumers and a smaller vernacular of silhouettes to play with. As Men’s Fashion Week comes to an end, Men’s Folio dissects the Top 5 trends for menswear SS26.
Fit Flop
Where we come from, there has always been a slightly negative connotation when it comes to pairing open-toed footwear with trousers — anything but shorts, really. Can menswear SS26 usher in a shift in the perception commonly associated with a lack of sartorial care when one dons their slides or sandals with denim or chinos? As demonstrated by Hermes, Yohji Yamamoto and Dolce&Gabbana, what makes their trouser and chancla pairing feel like the epitome of casual summer dressing comes down to the fluidity of the trousers. A rigid dress pant may feel out of place, but lightweight materials that flow create a congruent impression when worn with sandals. This explains why the Dolce’s “business on top, slumber party at the bottom” ensemble looks harmonious.
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Dramatic Suiting
Suits in the summer should be anything but stuffy — across their construction, materials and finishes. The Power Suit takes on a slightly different connotation at Louis Gabriel Nouchi’s menswear SS26 collection, as he explores the notion of power through the lens of sexuality. Eroticism does not mean being unclothed, as Nouchi presents relaxed double-breasted suits styled with latex ties. Silhouettes portraying dramatic shoulders and a nipped-in waist take place, inspired by the Zoot Suit, are seen across EgonLab and Wooyoungmi, perhaps as a trickle-down effect from the last Met Gala that showcased facets of black dandyism. The most direct nod comes from Willy Chavarria during his PFW showcase, where the suit has been used to symbolise the identity and influence of immigrants, referencing his cultural upbringing.
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Precarious Pastels
Can pastels still be groundbreaking for Spring Summer? Sure, answers Zegna, Prada and and Jonathan Anderson’s debut collection for Dior. Rather than just desaturated colours for a demure impression, Zegna portrays a palette bleached by the sun from constant exposure, while Prada juxtaposed its simple silhouettes with sickly, off-kilter pastels that still commanded attention. Although Dior’s use of pastels comes across as a display of affluence in ways an affinity for light-coloured clothing may convey a nonchalance towards wear, Willy Chavarria’s take carries a form of rebellion worn on the backs of the working class.
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Go To Sleep, Girl
Amazing what rest and relaxation does to tired minds. Loungewear takes on a more literal interpretation — beyond just relaxed shirtings and short shorts for menswear SS26. Dolce & Gabbana materialises the concept of rolling out your bed and starting your day immediately through a collection of pyjamas, worn together or as separates in all their wrinkled glory. AMIRI envisions winding down at their fictional Chateau through luxurious smoking jackets and matching lounge pants, complete with leather slippers.
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When I Grow Up
Through the lens of a child, the adult world may forge an impression of limitless opportunities and freedom. Before the concept of a business analyst or an SEO writer comes into their worldview as more conventional career pathways, there is an optimism tied to how work and adulthood are presented — as a pursuit of joy and self-driven purpose, rather than stakeholder value. Painters are seen on the runways, where childhood ambition is interpreted through paint-stained workwear at KidSuper and vests to hold paintbrushes at Homme Plisse Issey Miyake.
Kenzo also proposes a joyful wardrobe that envisions adult dressing with a juvenile flair, through playful Lisa Frank-style illustrations, band jackets (also seen on the runways of Dior) and stickerbombed flat-brim caps.
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Once you are done with this story, click here to catch up with our June/July 2025 issue.