Who better to reflect on the nature/nurture debate than the inquisitive “Father” of new Japanese fashion? Mikio Sakabe — quite the sci-fi culture buff — speaks to Men’s Folio about UFOs, raising the next generation of Japanese design and growing up.
An important question was posed to Mikio Sakabe — the eclectic footwear label’s founder — at the Grounds pop-up party in Singapore. My “Do you believe in aliens?” is met with an immediate “yes”, supported by his raised eyebrows and incredulous expression — as if I had asked instead if two plus two makes four. When I asked him again what forms he believed they would take on, Sakabe-san was quick with his reply, “They are probably not like us, five-dimensional, maybe?” He stresses probably again.
One could take Sakabe’s word for it. Of all designers, he has the best credentials to bolster a fantastical hypothesis on physics and outer space-related things. He was enrolled in a mathematics programme at Seikei University before pursuing design studies in London, Paris and Antwerp. Fragments of his intrigue come to life in his references to science-fiction plots, recent Texas itinerary, and more. That same intrigue is revealed, too, in his works. As “five-dimensional” as he imagines extraterrestrial life to be are his footwear creations. Each silhouette is unified in its inane soles and designed to look “as if you have stepped on something huge and gel-like”, says the brand’s website. “I’m designing for time travellers,” he says at one point of the interview, in response to Grounds’ brand philosophy that involves the terms “time”and “gravity”. He stresses more than once, though, that he does not have all the answers. It is a statement that seems unbelievable since he has enjoyed success with the cult bubble sole, his sub-brand Jenny Fax (a collaborative coquette venture with his wife Shueh Jen-Fang) and his eponymously-titled ready-to-wear label.
It may seem tricky, but Mikio Sakabe schools Men’s Folio about the time-space continuum, the world’s cultures and growing up — bubbled in his fondness for discovery.
Do you believe having a bounce in your step can make your whole day better?
Yes. Of course!
I heard that you consider yourself a pessimist.
That’s a bit… Who told you that? [Laughs]
I think you said it in an interview with HIGHSNOBIETY.
Yeah, did I say that? I don’t know. [Laughs] I don’t know; I forgot.
So, do you not see yourself as one?
I don’t think so? [Laughs] Maybe I wanted to be cool. [Laughs] I’m a happy person, mainly a happy person.
Is that why Grounds is such a happy brand? It seems that way — I mean, can bubbles ever be negative?
I always research in the streets of Tokyo. There is a very strong power of a mixed culture. That’s the start of our design, where Grounds’ more positive or happy element comes from. We take Japanese culture and exaggerate it to make our designs.
Were the bubble soles always intended to be the highlight of the brand? Or did you want to have a different focus — say like sneaker uppers?
The sole connects with us and the human soul, which is an architectural part and a design source. The upper is more trendy in fashion, while the soles are more conceptual. So, the bubble soles are important to us.
Grounds’ Spring Summer 2024 collection is titled “Marfa Lights”. It seems to be inspired by nature, unlike the urban-centric collections of the past. What inspired this shift?
Yes, it’s different, but I think nature and cities are the same. I don’t know what the difference is. It’s a contrast. Grounds is a bit futuristic, but it also fits with nature — a concept that I wanted to try. Take the Star Wars movies as an example. There’s so much set in nature, but it’s also set in the future with so much technology. And it fits. There are so many rockets and spaceships, but the natural elements in the movie are very beautiful. So I think cities and nature fit kind of well together.HOW DID YOU DECIDE ON “MARFA LIGHTS”, THEN? We don’t remember exactly why. Well, we knew we were very into this Texan concept. We dreamed about it so much because we often saw a movie about it when we were kids. That was the reason we started driving and travelling around Texas.
Were there any highlights from your trip to Texas? Something that we might see in a collection down the line? Marfa Lights 2.0?
I want to return because I couldn’t see the Marfa Lights. Do you know what Marfa Lights are? It’s a mystery. The aurora effect could maybe be caused by UFOs or ghosts. No one knows what they exactly are. I mean, we also didn’t know much about Marfa Lights; we thought it was just a fairy tale. But in Marfa, the people said it could be seen every day. That made me a bit curious. What’s happening? Why can you see some mysterious lights everyday? It’s very strange. So maybe Marfa 2.0 will happen when we see them.
Speaking of this sci-fi futuristic element, your website has a quote that says, “We will make people more aware of the time-gravity link and then make them dream of their connection to a higher dimension.” Could you explain a little more about what that means?
Can I see that again, please? [Laughs] If you try reading about gravity, it is connected with time. Time passes faster with stronger gravity. I saw it in Interstellar; it’s very strange, and I don’t understand what is happening. The character gets so old when he returns from space. That is the reality, logically and mathematically, but I don’t know what’s going on. I’d like to know about this kind of mystery, like Marfa Lights. If I add in the concept of human relations, relationships change with gravity. Then, somehow, time will pass differently.
Did we mistranslate it?
No, no, you got it completely right. I always forget what I say in interviews when I am by myself.
Is this time-gravity phenomenon something you studied when you were in school? I heard you were a math major.
Yeah, yeah! I learned about it.
Did you understand it back then?
I like the fantasy parts but not the mathematical parts as much. I don’t logically know what goes on for time and gravity.
What kind of customer would suit Grounds?
I think Grounds suits someone who wants to do something different right from when their day begins. If you wear Grounds, something interesting will happen in your day.
Has anything interesting happened today when you wore Grounds? Are you wearing Grounds today?
Yeah, yeah, every day. Everything. You are taller… Everyone thinks you’re taller than you actually are, and you have a different vision when you’re seven centimetres taller, which you don’t usually see at your normal height. Many people will also ask where you bought these shoes from, so you get to meet a lot of people.
I heard that the Japanese youth is a key influence on Grounds. What is it about them that you feel is inspiring?
I think it’s not only the youth culture but every kind of street fashion and street culture. That’s why I’m very curious about Singapore. Whenever we have shoots for Grounds, I always visit different countries and I want to see the streets. That is always inspiring for our designs. I want to see what the street culture is like in specific parts of Singapore. But I think the main thing I always feel is that many things are mixed. That’s so interesting. I can see some Chinese, Malaysian, or even Indonesian cultures, mixed to create that Singapore culture.
I heard that you are one of the biggest supporters of young talent in Japan. You have your own fashion school, and then you also have the Three Treasures group. How did you know that this was something you wanted to do?
I think especially in Japan, a lot of young people are very interested in fashion. But on the other hand, they don’t know how to be a designer. I think that’s what I want to teach: how to come out to be a designer. I want to try to teach and share my knowledge. And I think we still have very interesting cultures coming out of Japan. And that can be combined with a design element. And I also can learn from the young designers for the next movement. So it’s kind of important for me to do.
And then because of that, some people call you the ‘Father of New Japanese Fashion’. So how do you feel about having the responsibility?
I don’t like people to call me that. [Laughs]
At least your title is not ‘Grandfather’!
Almost. [Laughs] I’m happy that people call me ‘Father’, but everyone jokes about that. It makes me sound old.
If you could be nicknamed something else?
I’m a designer! ‘Father’ makes it seem like I’m about to retire. I still want to be a designer, so I don’t want to be the father. I’m trying to help young designers, but I also am up-and-coming.
How is ‘Older Brother of New Japanese Fashion’?
Oh yes. ‘Older Brother’ is much better! [Laughs]
Do you ever feel burdened by that responsibility?
I don’t know. I never think about the responsibility. I just want to have fun.
Is there a specific instance when you choose to be serious with them?
Of course, everything has to be very serious. And I have to think about all our people’s life because they want to be designers, and it takes time. It’s serious but at the same time, I don’t think that is a responsibility. That is just life going on. I just want to share my advice. And see and navigate what goes on, together.
Is there anything about the Japanese fashion scene or culture that you want the new generation to evolve out of?
I don’t like it if it is too kitsch. Just being strange or kitsch is stupid. I want to make something that mixes in culture — how to combine it, I don’t know yet.
Have you learned anything from them?
A lot, I think. Since I can learn from a young designer or young creator. Always. I think generations are different, a lot of visions are different. And I think that’s like a learning opportunity every time.
Is there a key lesson you want to share with your children?
If you want to be a creator or designer, everyone just has to go by their own path, because nowadays so easy to be influenced by everything. For instance, if I want to go to good restaurants, I can Google it. And yeah, I can find good restaurants, and I don’t make any mistakes, but I become boring. But young designers have to try their way and make mistakes. And that is a kind of key to growing up. It is more important than just having a comfortable place to remain at. So making mistakes is very good, it’s an opportunity.
Is there a mistake you’ve made at Grounds that you feel like helped you to learn?
Yeah. Especially at the beginning. The beginning was so stupid. [Laughs] We had so much fun and we made so much stupid colours. Crazy kinds of colours that we couldn’t sell at all. We tried to ask people who know sneakers, and they suggested neon colours to be good. But we made so many neon colours, and no one bought them. But actually, we learned design but we are not shoe designers. So this is our first time taking on the challenge that is shoes for Grounds. That’s why there were so many mistakes. But it is enjoyable.
So never again? No more neon colours?
No, now I know how to make good neon colours. [Laughs]
Once you are done with this story, click here to catch up with our May 2024 issue.
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