Jonathan Anderson’s Dior SS27 offering is a soft riot of mismatched energy, pairing aristo dressing with after-hours glamour and every shade of debauchery in between. Chaotic yet considered, it’s a collection that quietly underscores tension and contradiction.
Look one opens with a loose-fitting, translucent pinstripe suit. What follows is a procession of jorts paired with military jackets, pyjama-inspired tailoring, and the nth iteration of the Bar jacket. Throughout, movement and materiality operate in symbiosis with Dior’s womenswear codes, creating a dialogue between the two wardrobes each season.
Rather than charting entirely new territory, this season feels like a refined continuation of Anderson’s debut menswear outing for the house. In contrast to his sophomore collection, which explored the furthest reaches of what the Dior man could be, SS27 returns with greater focus, sharpening and expanding ideas already set in motion.
Callbacks are important for a house this historic. Instead of solely exploring the archives of the 20th century, many of the silhouettes seem reminiscent of Dior Homme in the early 2000s: cigarette-cut jeans, disco shorts, long scarves, lean bodies, and the like.
There is a certain sensual yet affectless energy to the collection. The styling provides much of the context. This season’s Dior man is a twenty-something who has just capped off his night at 7 a.m. He went to a secret rave on the outskirts of Paris, met a fling for the afters, and his dishevelled, somewhat chic shame now walks down the runway as though he’s taking the first train home.
High-low dressing is the best way to describe Dior’s young aristocrat. This time, he is a composite memory of everything Anderson has shown us since his debut — a figure suspended between archive and contemporary. But can nostalgia become progressive when filtered through a new sensibility?
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