The Patek Philippe Aquanaut ref. 5164G is arguably the horological essence of a summer getaway.
As June rolls around, so does the annual season of beach getaways, flip-flops and shorts, and drinks by the pool. With it comes a small-but-common problem that most people — this author included — face when it comes to summer holidays: what singular watch is versatile enough to be a beach- or pool-side wrist companion yet doubles up as wrist candy in, say, a fancy dinner setting?
The answer is one that is multifaceted, and dependent on the fulfilment of multiple criteria: a sophisticated strap — preferably rubber — that is water-resistant but formal-presenting enough; the presence of a travel time complication; and a case shape that exudes a balance between elegance and sportiness. Taking a look at this year’s releases thus far, there are a few timepieces that meet the criteria — of them all, the Patek Philippe Aquanaut ref. 5164G-001 is the pick of the bunch.
2023’s edition of Watches & Wonders saw the well-received release of the Aquanaut Luce ref. 5269R-001 in a blue-grey opaline finish — Patek Philippe wisely decided to follow up on the enthusiastic reception by incorporating the same versatile, summer-ready colour in four of its releases this year, with the Aquanaut ref. 5164G amongst them. The iconic curved-grid dial pattern and ‘grenade’-textured composite rubber strap are finished in matching shades of the colourway. Versatile, summer-appropriate dial colour and matching strap? Check.
Like the dial and strap, the silhouette of the timepiece is similar to those of its forebears. The white gold, porthole-inspired case shape — popularised by its Nautilus older brother — is the face of the modern sports watch, and is versatile enough to look at home in any summer holiday setting, regardless of whether a shirt is required or not.
The summer suitability of the timepiece is further underlined by the movement at its heart. Powered by the Caliber 26-330 S C FUS GMT movement, the timepiece is able to track both local and home timezones — a useful complication especially on holiday in a different timezone. Furthermore, the upside of this GMT movement transcends the purely functional — aesthetically, the movement incorporates two polished pushers that match the curve of the watch’s silhouette, enhancing its presence and profile in a subtle yet elegant manner. That being said, the presence of the GMT complication means the water resistance of the timepiece is restricted to just 30 metres, dictating that the pool is about as deep as it can go — the only visible downside to this watch as a summer-ready piece.
Nevertheless, this sophisticated horological balancing act of form and function translates into a timepiece that dances elegantly along the fine line between dressy sophistication and sporty functionality. The union of so many diametrically-opposed elements can be jarring if executed haphazardly, but Patek Philippe’s seamless union of a white gold case with composite rubber strap; a GMT movement with a sporty case silhouette; brushed and polished case finishes with matte ‘grenade’-textured strap patterns, means that this is a versatile watch that is the ticking essence of a summer getaway, and hence possibly the only watch you’ll need to take on one.
Once you are done with this story, click here to catch up with our May 2024 issue.