We roped in help as we look back at some of the standout timepieces of 2023.
Pictured above: Hublot MP-15 Takashi Murakami Tourbillon Sapphire
Asaph: Having worked with the Hublot Classic Fusion for the two previous rounds, it is only fitting that Takashi Murakami’s three-peat collaboration with Hublot culminated with the Hublot MP-15 Takashi Murakami Tourbillon Sapphire. The masterpiece takes the form of Murakami’s inimitable flower motif fashioned from transparent sapphire. One can only imagine the manufacturing complexity given the curvatures that run throughout the watch. At the watch’s heart lies a central flying tourbillon with a whole week’s power reserve. A special stylus designed for the Hublot MP-15 Takashi Murakami Tourbillon Sapphire winds the barrels fully in 100 revolutions.
Ben: The Hublot MP-15 Takashi Murakami Tourbillon Sapphire is — in some ways — a reinvention of what a watch normally would look like. For this timepiece, Hublot and Murakami decided to integrate the watch’s case, movement and dial singularly within Murakami’s iconic twelve-petalled flower motif — an embodiment of the manufacture’s “The Art of Fusion” motto. The case is also made from sapphire, elevating the watch by showing off the unique central flying tourbillon movement at the heart of the watch.
Cartier Santos-Dumont Micro-Rotor Skeleton
Asaph: Cartier’s imaginative and — at times — whimsical disposition manifests as a fitting tribute to Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont. Without his request to Louis Cartier for a wristwatch, the Cartier Santos watch would not have seen the light of the world. The Cartier Santos-Dumont Micro-Rotor Skeleton plays on Cartier’s signature skeletonisation technique with a figurine of Alberto Santos-Dumont’s Demoiselle aeroplane as the watch’s rotor. Upon motion, the aeroplane takes flight and powers the Cartier Santos-Dumont Micro-Rotor Skeleton into the realm of imagination.
Ben: The skeletonised calibre 9629 MC movement is the first strikingly obvious feature on Cartier’s Santos-Dumont Micro-Rotor Skeleton. A closer look reveals a fun, novel feature that also pays tribute to Alberto Santos-Dumont — the Brazilian aviator the watch is named after. The micro-rotor bears the Demoiselle aeroplane motif, the crowning achievement of Santos-Dumont’s career. All in all, the watch is a tasteful and fun representation of the Maison’s craftsmanship and heritage.
Bvlgari Octo Finissimo CarbonGold Automatic and Perpetual Calendar
Ben: Bvlgari’s iconic, award-winning take on the integrated bracelet luxury sports watch is once again the platform to showcase the manufacture’s watchmaking expertise. The renowned ultrathin movement is housed in a 7.60mm-thick, matte carbon case with gold accents, elevating the watch’s look while adding textural contrast with a matte finish. Given carbon is a material that is notoriously difficult to work with given its structural integrity, Bvlgari has well and truly outdone themselves with this release.
Asaph: It is hard to look beyond any of Bvlgari’s other offerings for the year when the Bvlgari Octo Finissimo is mentioned in the picture. The Maison’s prowess and expertise in ultrathin watchmaking shine through yet again in the Bvlgari Octo Finissimo CarbonGold. This year’s release combines the technicity of carbon and the preciousness of gold for an audacious take on the iconic Octo Finissimo. Crafting this timepiece was no stroll in the park, as the entire Octo Finissimo blueprint had to be recalculated to ensure the structural integrity and machinability of the carbon components. The automatic and perpetual calendar iterations of the Bvlgari Octo Finissimo CarbonGold are bound to be head turners despite their ultrathin profile on the wrist.
Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean 600M Co-Axial Master Chronometer GMT “Dark Grey”
Asaph: Omega’s tribute to the Seamaster 75th anniversary continues with a brooding take on the Seamaster Planet Ocean after the resplendent Summer Blue capsule collection. Despite being a burly watch with a 45.5mm diameter and 17.4mm thick heft, Omega trims its weight with a combination of ceramic and titanium. The case is crafted from silicon nitride (Si3N4) ceramic that is two times lighter than zirconia ceramic, while the NAIAD Lock case back, bezel insert, dial, and the calibre 8906 Ti main plate and bridges (yes, you read that right) are made from titanium.
Ben: While this Planet Ocean “Dark Grey” looks incredibly similar to its “Deep Black” counterpart, a closer look reveals the differences. The dimensions are the same — the case measures 45.5mm and is over 17mm thick — but despite its hefty appearance, it is significantly lighter. Omega has subjected the Planet Ocean to the best of its current high-tech treatment, with the case made from a silicon nitride ceramic compound. The bezel body, crown, helium valve, clasp, dial and even movement are made of titanium. This Omega creation truly is a demonstration of its watchmaking and engineering expertise.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph
Asaph: Jaeger-LeCoultre once again demonstrates their prowess in calibre making with the new Calibre 860. For starters, it is an integrated chronograph movement designed specifically for the Reverso. Behind the deceptively simple-looking minimalist dial lies a skeletonised one that houses the chronograph. Call it poetry in motion — if you will — but a simple 3-step pull-flip-click motion allows wearers to showcase either dial to their liking. Instead of relinquishing such a creation to precious metals, Jaeger-LeCoultre presents a stainless steel example of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph, accessible to a slightly wider audience.
Ben: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph poetically mirrors both sides of the Maison today, balancing between Art Deco heritage and the complex watchmaking for which the manufacture has developed a reputation. One of the timepiece’s two dial features a sleek, blue-grey sunburst-finish while flipping it over reveals the skeletonised, open-worked chronograph side showing off the new Calibre 860. On one hand, it is a simple but tasteful modern take on a classic dress watch and on the other, a contemporary, avant-garde chronograph calibre on display in a paradoxical yet harmonic union.
Hermès Slim d’Hermès Pocket Masan Masan
Ben: As with all things Hermès, the Slim d’Hermès Pocket Masan Masan is more a work of art that embodies Hermès’ equestrian heritage and exquisite craftsmanship. Featuring a motif that has a surprising Southeast Asian touch, the watch’s design is derived from an equestrian silk scarf woven horse motif created by Thai designer Terawat Teankaprasith —who in turn was inspired by the ancestral Thai art of basket weaving. The watch recreates this motif through horsehair marquetry — involving different shades of horsehair cut and glued strand by strand. The dial is also crafted with the same process, with the horsehairs laid diagonally.
Asaph: Hermès again demonstrates the beauty of watchmaking with a unique take on the Hermès Slim d’Hermès Pocket Masan Masan. The Maison’s métiers d’art division brings to life Hermès’ love for equestrian with a horsehair marquetry motif set on the pocket watch cover. Teankaprasith’s — one of six winners of the 2019 Grand Prix du Carré Hermès — Masan silk scarf design forms the point of inspiration for the Hermès Slim d’Hermès Pocket Masan Masan. Artisans painstakingly select, cut and glue the horsehair and bring to life two horses in contrasting shades of chestnut and gold with a separate grey motif created for the watch dial.
IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 TOP GUN Mojave Desert
Asaph: IWC finally decided to give the “Mojave Desert” treatment to the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41, much to the delight of fans of the colourway. Inspired by the flight suits of naval aviators and the desert landscape around China Lake — home to the US Navy’s famous TOPGUN flight school — the Mojave Desert’s khaki and tan colour scheme is arguably one of the manufacture’s most universally loved. Previously, this colour scheme was only offered on the significantly larger Big Pilot (46mm) and Pilot’s Watch Top Gun Chronograph (44.5mm). Given the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph measures at a more accessible 41.9mm, it is a pretty sure bet that this will be a hit.
Ben: Much attention has been given to the IWC Ingenieur this year for good reason, but the IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 TOP GUN Mojave Desert takes the brand back to its roots — pilot watches. The release is IWC’s third 41mm ceramic chronograph and with the fan-favourite Mojave Desert colourway injected into the mix, we have an instant winner in our hands.
Longines Legend Diver
Ben: There seems to be a prevailing trend of watchmakers diving into the archives and issuing remakes of their iconic models — Longines, with their Legend Diver remake, is no exception. It is heartening to see the Legend Diver resurface once more — albeit with a 39mm case that reflects contemporary tastes. Size aside, Longines has opted to stay faithful to the original Super-Compressor style design, with the iconic dual screw-down crowns and internal rotating discs making a return. I can almost hear the Longines fans celebrating this one!
Asaph: Despite being a utilitarian watch through and through, the Longines Legend Diver somehow manages a touch of elegance for which Longines is renowned. Lacquered dials and beads of rice bracelets are often better acquainted with dressier watches, but they find themselves in the deep end as part of the Longines Legend Diver remake. Pair that with a 39mm diameter case and Longines Legend Diver feels like a dress dive watch, which makes total sense contrary to conventional thoughts. The COSC-certified calibre L888 is the icing on the cake, providing up to 72 hours of precision.
Once you are done with this story, click here to catch up with our December/January 2024 issue.
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