Ng Shu Yi, founder of Yi Leather, shares the journey of her business as 2024 marks the 10th anniversary of her creative pursuit.
Watches and watchmakers are often in the limelight but that does not mean we should overlook watch straps and strapmakers. Men’s Folio speaks to three Singapore-based strapmakers, as part of a three-part feature story,who share their passion, challenges and joys of running their business.
Men’s Folio: Let’s start with something more sentimental: which leather material has a special place in your heart?
Shu Yi: I would say it’s buffalo leather because it’s the first leather I crafted something from before embarking on Yi Leather. Not many people use buffalo leather these days; even I hardly work with it. I’ve been using a buffalo leather key pouch for over 10 years, and it still serves me well to this day.
How about the most exotic material you have worked with?
There are quite a few, apart from the usual crocodile or lizard, I’ve worked with beaver tails and occasionally stingray leather.
How did Yi Leather come to be, and what led you to start the business?
I chanced upon it. I started Yi Leather at the age of 30. I’ve always liked hands-on things, and it was a now-or-never opportunity. When I learned about luxury products, I often wondered why the price points were so high. A Bottega Veneta purse, for instance, would cost 1,000 dollars.
It struck me that there are many factors — in terms of measurements, thickness and how labour-intensive it is to make a leather product — when I enrolled myself into a leather crafting class to make key pouches. That’s when I considered combining a passion for watches and leather crafting. I thought it was a good time to start something.
Which year did Yi Leather start?
In December 2014. This year marks the 10th anniversary of Yi Leather.
Has this journey been a path of self-discovery or self-fulfilment for you?
I would say it’s both. It’s never easy to start a business. Now and then, I’ll wonder — especially when things are not going right — if I’ve made the right choice. Sometimes, the customers pull me back again when I receive good feedback. It could be them coming back to me after so many years and telling me my straps are really good and very soft, for example.
These make me reconsider that maybe it’s still the right path. I’ll take a break, perhaps a day or two, from leather or strap making if I feel burnt out. It’s a recharge, and I would go back to it again afterwards. Sometimes, I would question myself if I still enjoy what I’m doing, and I’d tell myself yes.
Aside from watches, what keeps you inspired?
I get inspiration from having coffee in a cafe, listening to music or hiking in nature. Talking to people or fellow artists and crafters can help me gain insights, too.
You operate as an actual one-man show. How do you stay motivated and what are the joys of the business that keep you going, especially when it can be a very lonely journey?
I’m very introverted, so I can deal with doing things alone. But again, I have another part-time job that deals with watches. It’s a balance for me; I’m crafting watch straps and don’t get out of touch with watches.
And since it’s a one-person thing, I don’t have to report to anybody. Of course, you need to be more disciplined; you can’t take a holiday as and when you like. I find it even harder to go on vacation compared to being an employee versus being self-employed. [Laughs]
Embarking on a business that involves craftsmanship is a constant journey of learning and improving. What has been the most challenging skill to hone?
I’d say crafting integrated watch straps such as those for the Cartier Santos, Audemars Piguet Royal Oak or models from Hublot. I’ve done these before; they’re not up to my standards, and it’s something I’m still trying to master.
How would you define your design philosophy when creating watch straps, and are there specific elements or themes that consistently appear in your designs?
Firstly, when Yi Leather started, I wanted the products to be affordable and well-priced but still handcrafted. In terms of pricing, they’re still very well priced, even though the market is very competitive at the moment. Secondly, it’s the leather choices for the strap backing.
I use goat lining, which is very strong and has a certain level of water resistance. These are the foundations of Yi Leather. I always say the straps should complement and not overpower or snatch the limelight of a watch and its design.
Since most, if not all, of your pieces are crafted based on a client’s request, how does your creativity shine in such instances?
It could be playing with the little details, such as the colour of the keepers or the strap lining to complement the watch dial. If not, I’ll experiment with different methods of stitching, thread colours, or even bicolour straps with contrasting top and bottom colours.
You mentioned price earlier. Is price the surest reflection and indication of quality?
Price reflects the quality. For instance, something at a lower price range might use glued instead of stitched keepers that will eventually fall apart.
On the other hand, there’s the craftsmanship. It’s tough to price because it’s so labour-intensive; the leather cost is just a fraction of what you pay. At the end of the day, it’s about the leather crafter.
Beyond crafting straps, there is a lot of community building and engagement with people from all walks of life who have this shared love for watches. How has this contributed to the success of your brand?
The majority of what I’m doing is still watch straps. The microwatch brand scene in Singapore is growing, and you can expect to see Yi Leather actively helping a few of them make handcrafted straps. Not many local crafters provide handmade leather straps for these brands; they’re either OEM or sourced from other Asian regions.
I’ve been making straps for Feynman Timekeepers for the past five years, with almost 150 straps per collection. I think it’s good that following the success of Feynman Timekeepers, a few other brands are looking to work with Singapore crafters for their watch straps.
How significant are the differences between the challenges you faced when you started versus what you face today?Nobody knew Yi Leather when it started. I had to price the straps appropriately and not too highly to attract and not deter customers. Many people picked up leather or strap crafting back then, but only as a hobby and not a full- or part-time pursuit.
Today’s challenges are how we compete with labour costs and reach a broader consumer base in Singapore. Even after 10 years in the market, not many people know about Yi Leather. It’s down to referrals and word of mouth. Then, of course, the challenge is how active you are in social media engagement. I would like to be more engaging, but juggling business operations alone is hard, especially when I have corporate orders to fulfil.
There are not a lot of female crafters around, Do you think it is still a very male-dominated scene?
Yes. I usually get addressed as “bro” in messages I receive on social media platforms; that’s why I introduce myself as a lady strap maker on my profile. It’s perfectly fine because sometimes it’s a wow factor.
I’d say there are female crafters around, but perhaps they are working behind the scenes rather than fronting the business or facing clients.
What are the goals for Yi Leather this year?
This year marks the 10th anniversary of Yi Leather. I’m in contact with a few artists to collaborate on a watch strap design, such as hand painting them. It has been on my mind to bring artists like digital illustrators or painters to paint the watch straps. They can tell their story with the designs or perhaps bring a visual I have in mind to reality. It’s still in its infancy due to everyone’s time commitments.
Do you have a favourite material to work with?
There isn’t a favourite because I like leather in general. But I’d like to try a wider range of leather; I haven’t worked with snake leather before, and vegan leather is on the radar, too.
Is there a runway for vegan leather to be self-sustainable?
It’s not entirely vegan, even though it’s labelled as such because it might contain synthetics. Producing such leather can be very harmful to the environment. I do get people enquiring if there’s anything that is non-animal based. Maybe, in the long run, vegan leather will shake up the industry a little bit.
I’ve worked with coconut leather samples made from coconut fibres. Its texture isn’t so bad, and the colour options are limited, but you can’t achieve something that suits everybody.
Just as a wristwatch cannot function without a strap, it is difficult to sustain a business in strap making without a passion and love for watches and the craft itself. Which of the two holds a special place in your heart?
It’s a tough choice. I would say watches because there wouldn’t be Yi Leather without them. Without watches, there won’t be business for watch strapmakers.
All responses have been edited for brevity.
Photography Jaya Khidir
Once you’re done with this story about Ng Shu Yi and Yi Leather, click here to catch up with our February 2024 issue.