As part of the August issue’s celebration of all things home, Men’s Folio shines a spotlight on six Singapore watch brands.
A little-known fact to those outside the industry is that Singapore is amongst the top export markets globally for Swiss-made watches. Granted, Singapore’s land mass and population size are markedly smaller compared to the other markets on the list (except Hong Kong). But if anything, if anything, it is an indicator that Singapore certainly is right up there in terms of horological passion — a passion that is also a source of pride. It comes as no surprise, then, that the city-state was a plethora of local watch brands, some of whom have made a name for themselves on the global stage.
Regardless, they are — collectively — the best of what Singapore offers in horology. While each brand is unique in its own right, all are driven by innovation, creativity, and passion. In essence, they are both a reflection and proud stewards of the island nation’s love for watches.
There are familiar names: OGs like Azimuth Watch Co. and Christopher Long, household brands such as Zelos’ Elshan Tang, and BOLDR Supply Co’s Leon Leong are shoo-ins for this story. That said, the innovation, creativity and pride in the work from names like Arcturus Watches’ Alexander Loh, Feynman Timekeepers’ Lim Yong Keong, and Horizon Watches’ Sugiharto Kusumadi together with Fred Bekher make them wrist-bound pieces of horological art in their own right.
One of the foremost names in Singapore watchmaking, Zelos needs no introduction. Since its inception a decade ago, the watch brand has forged a reputation for incorporating experimental, exotic materials. From meteorite to tantalum and even a world-first titanium-damascus alloy, no material is beyond consideration for Zelos’ founder, Elshan Tang.
Here is part 2 of 3 featuring Zelos Watch Co. and Arcturus Watches, and if you missed it earlier, part 1 featuring Azimuth Watch Co. and Horizon Watches.
Zelos Watch Co.
The Zelos Nova 37 in mosaic mother-of-pearl.
In line with the brand’s spirit of daring, innovative watchmaking, Zelos’ latest release ventures away from its usual staple, rugged aesthetic. The Nova 37 is — in every sense — a sleek dress watch: classic 37mm case diameter, congruous circular symmetry, exquisite dial finishing and materials, and topped off with a leather strap. Even within the confines of a collection, Tang’s creativity shines through in the array of materials used, and the variety in dial finishing represents a fresh interpretation of Zelos’ pioneering spirit — albeit in a more subtle, dressier format.
While all the pieces in the Nova 37 are beautiful works in their own right, the most eye-catching is by far the Mosaic mother of pearl variant. Dial-side, it is exactly as its name suggests — Arabic numerals are applied onto a mosaic-patterned mother of pearl dial. The outer chapter ring comprises the precious mineral in a myriad of oceanic blue hues, while the inner dial and seconds subdial feature the mineral in shades of iridescent white, arranged in alternating shapes.
Completing the vintage dress watch look — albeit with a touch of modernity — the dial is sandwiched between a “box” sapphire crystal on the front and flat sapphire crystal on the caseback. Movement-wise, Tang has opted for the slim and tasteful hand-wound ETA 7001, finished in a Côtes de Genève pattern with blued screws. The result is radically different from what Zelos usually puts out but is also a testament to the brand’s creative flexibility, expressing its core principles in a more refined design language.
In conversation with Zelos Founder Elshan Tang
The Zelos Nova 37 Aventurine on the wrist
When was Zelos founded, and how has the brand’s growth journey been?
Zelos was founded in 2014 via Kickstarter, and we are proud to have just celebrated our tenth anniversary with a limited edition of the Helmsman. It was our very first model, and the 10th-anniversary piece combines all our achievements and unique materials used over the years.
Production has improved significantly in terms of quality, and every part of the watch has significantly improved. The catalogue has also grown to be pretty huge, with almost every style offered, from rugged dive watches to slim dress pieces and sports chronographs. We also launched a few high-end pieces — like the Mirage tourbillon, which sells for US$10.9k; and the follow-up 8 days, which sells for US$4.9k.
Close up of the Zelos Nova 37 Salmon dial
How did the brand name come along, and what were the inspirations or points of reference that created the brand identity?
Zelos was a name I picked as it showcased my love for watches, which is the main reason this brand was started. I’ve always enjoyed cool materials and modern designs, which is why Zelos is now known for these.
What challenges did you face when running the brand — and amidst those tough periods, what heartening moments made it worthwhile?
Production issues were common when starting out, resulting in months-long delays. Thankfully, customers were really understanding and decided to stick through the delays.
The Zelos Nova 37 Aventurine
What is a lesser-known and interesting backstory of the brand you would like to share? What was the inspiration behind the Zelos Nova 37 collection and what is your favourite feature of the watch?
The Nova is a true dress watch, which is quite a departure from the usual rugged pieces that we normally produce. The slim case wears really comfortably and the guilloche dial is something very different from the usual dials as well.
Of the different collections you have released so far, which is the closest to your heart and why?
The Mirage tourbillon was a leap of faith, as the calibres were a huge investment. Furthermore, it was our most expensive piece yet and was launched in the middle of the COVID-19 pandemic. Thankfully, it sold out within 10 minutes!
Arcturus Watch
The Arcturus LC-2 Vanda Tourbillon in green malachite
A watchmaker that wears its Singaporean roots on its sleeve (or should we say wrist?), all of Arcturus’ releases to date lean heavily on its island home for design inspiration. For instance, the LC-1 — which stands for Lion City-1 — blends classic 1920s Art Deco features in the dial architecture, Roman numerals, minute track, and date wheel font with modern technology in the double-domed and Anti-Reflective (AR) coated front sapphire crystal.
This horological expression of Singapore’s blend of cultures and historical and modern architecture is carried over into the watchmaker’s latest release, the LC-2 Vanda Tourbillon. As its name suggests, the timepiece is inspired by Singapore’s national flower — the Vanda Miss Joaquim orchid — and this inspiration is visibly manifest in motifs on both the dial side and the caseback.
In terms of design cues, Arcturus wisely decided to bring back the 1920s Art Deco-styled Roman numerals and minute track from the LC-1 — albeit in a more rounded shape. That said, the similarities with the LC-1 ends there. The LC-2 has a more rounded case and — in an additional sporty-retro detail — features an onion crown, typically found on classic pilot watches. More obviously, the LC-2 sports a tourbillon movement — specifically, the Peacock SL5200 flying tourbillon movement — which is a huge statement of intent from the brand, given how not many local brands have attempted to craft watches around the complication. Regarding dial material, the LC-2 also incorporates new dial materials, with aventurine, green malachite and white guilloche variants. While the aventurine and white guilloche options are both classy options, the green malachite adds a pop of colour, fun, and personality to the timepiece. This bold and charming fun drives Arcturus as a watchmaker is well-embodied here.
In conversation with Arcturus Watches Founder Alexander Loh
The Arcturus LC-2 Vanda Tourbillon in aventurine
When was Arcturus founded, and how has the brand’s growth journey been?
Arcturus Watches was founded in 2017 in the charming, quaint Elmfield House in Leicester, United Kingdom, while I studied law at the University of Leicester. During the initial stages of Arcturus, with the launch of the Lion City 1 (“LC-1”), I managed the entire fundraising campaign by myself.
From those humble beginnings of running Arcturus alone, the brand has grown to a strong team of four. The journey has been nothing short of exciting and eventful. Initially, everything from design to marketing was a solo endeavour, but now, with a dedicated team, we have achieved more significant milestones and expanded our vision.
We’ve brought in new expertise that has been crucial to our growth. Each team member brings unique skills and perspectives, yet we all share the same vision of creating exceptional timepieces that resonate with our customers. This shared vision has allowed us to innovate and push the boundaries of what we can achieve as a brand.
How did the brand name come along, and what were the inspirations or points of reference that created the brand identity?
“Arcturus” is actually the name of a star, and it is the brightest in the Boötes constellation. Like its namesake, we strive to be the brightest star in Singapore and, eventually, the horological world. The inspiration behind the name was to symbolise our ambition and aspiration to shine brightly and stand out in the competitive watch industry.
Singapore is our constant source of inspiration, and we are incredibly proud to be a Singaporean brand. The city’s blend of tradition and modernity, innovation, and vibrant culture deeply influence our designs and ethos. This celestial reference underscores our commitment to excellence and innovation, aiming to guide our brand’s identity as a beacon of quality and creativity in watchmaking.
Close up of the tourbillon cage in the Arcturus LC-2 Vanda Tourbillon
What challenges did you face when running the brand, and amidst those tough periods, what heartening moments made it worthwhile?
Arcturus is a relatively young brand compared to our Swiss contemporaries. In an industry where almost every conceivable design has been hashed and rehashed, coming up with an original design is difficult. The challenge lies in standing out and making a mark with something truly unique and innovative.
What was truly heartening was seeing our fellow countrymen support our designs not just because we are a Singaporean brand but because they genuinely appreciate the fine details and craftsmanship that go into all our timepieces. This support has been incredibly encouraging and reaffirms our commitment to quality and originality. Moments like these make the tough periods worthwhile, knowing that our efforts resonate with and are valued by our community.
As Charles Eames once said, “The details are not the details. They make the design.” This philosophy is central to our approach at Arcturus, where we strive to create timepieces that are not only aesthetically pleasing but also meticulously crafted.
What is your personal relationship with watches and how did it grow from that to founding a watch brand?
My very first watch — a Power Ranger’s digital watch — was a gift from my late mother. I wore it every waking moment as a child. This early fascination with watches continued even after my National Service, where I worked as a weapons technician. Having spent much time working with my hands during that period, I developed a deeper appreciation for mechanical watches. During my time at university, I sourced parts from eBay and began experimenting with watch building, assemblying, and repairing.
This hands-on experience sparked my passion for watchmaking. Over time, I realised that my creations were limited by the availability of parts online. Motivated by a desire to create something truly unique and driven by my childhood fascination with timepieces, I decided to take the leap and founded Arcturus. It was a natural progression from my journey with watches to establishing a brand embodying craftsmanship, innovation, and a dedication to creating distinctive timepieces.
What was the inspiration behind the Arcturus LC-2 collection, and what is your favourite feature of the watch?
The biggest inspiration for Arcturus has always been Singapore. We draw inspiration from our little sunny island — from architecture like the Helix Bridge to nature like the Vanda Miss Joaquim. In the LC-2 Vanda Tourbillon — aside from the beautiful and layered textures on the dial — my favourite feature of the watch would have to be the case back, a hybrid between a solid and an exhibition case back. An embossed Vanda Miss Joaquim flower is featured, sitting above an eyelet opening which displays the tourbillon oscillating away.
What element (complication, material or lifestyle) did you prioritise when designing the watch?
There really wasn’t any priority in designing the LC-2 Vanda Tourbillon as we wanted to ensure harmony in design, material and movement complication. All elements had to be balanced without overshadowing others. The different dial materials used were very carefully chosen to ensure that the aesthetics and design language was preserved without being too outlandish.
Once you are done with this story, click here to catch up with our August 2024 issue.
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