Law Jia-Jun, an alum of the three Michelin-star Manresa by David Kinch, opens Province — a new restaurant celebrating the diversity of Southeast Asian ingredients.
When chef-owner Law Jia-Jun looks at the countries of Southeast Asia, he sees a gold mine of culinary riches, including a myriad of quality produce and vast culinary traditions. Unsurprisingly, when he opened his new restaurant on Joo Chiat Road, Law looked to bring a taste of Southeast Asia to the Singaporean dining table.
“I am inspired by the rich and often overlooked resources right in our backyard — the collective ‘province’ that is Southeast Asia,” Law shares. His goal? “To showcase and allow my guests to taste the riches of this region.”
And share the riches of the region he does. Law’s seven-course prix-fixe menu changes every four months to spotlight seasonal highlights within Southeast Asia, including staples like carrots, coconut and soursop, to more unheard-of spices like mahlesa, a wild spice found in the mountains of northern Thailand, which he has obtained through building close relationships with farmers, growers, fishermen, and producers around the region.
Law’s approach to his dining experience is simple. With only eight seats, the space is small and intimate — perfect for diners to experience Law’s thoughtful cooking. Every dish is only made with five components to allow the ingredients to take centre stage. For these five components to truly take off, he uses charcoal fire to imbue a smoky wok hei flair to his dishes. Each dish is infused with layers of Law’s childhood, personality, and journeys around Southeast Asia.
Take the Tubers, one of Law’s favourites, for instance. It sees sweet potatoes sourced from Chiang Rai, Thailand, slow-roasted and rested overnight before being sliced into cubes and deep-fried in duck fat. It is then served with a buah keluak (kepayang tree seed) purée, pickled onions, and smoked sweet potato espuma. To enjoy this smoky and savoury dish, diners are encouraged to spoon all the components from bottom to top, mirroring Law’s experience of harvesting sweet potatoes in Thailand and pulling root vegetables from the soil.
Law pays homage to his mentors in other dishes, such as the second course, Into the Garden. Recalling his time working with chef David Kinch at the now-closed Manresa restaurant in Los Angeles, Law has crafted a dish spotlighting seasonal vegetables in honour of Kinch’s farm-to-table philosophy. It sees ravioli filled with grilled spring onions and caramelised onions, tossed in a smoky tang-oh (garland chrysanthemum) sauce, topped with fermented carrot and a garnish of over ten varieties of vegetables, and finally drizzled with calamansi vinaigrette and ginger flower oil. It is a delicate balancing act between sweet, sour, and bitter profiles that strangely work together in harmony.
Even the beverage menu sees Law’s championing of regional products, featuring craft beers from Singaporean-owned Niang Brewery. If not, an extensive wine list featuring wines from underrated vineyards, including a premium Château Trigant 2016, is on offer to complement your meal with a touch of elegance and complexity.
Once you’re done with this story on Province, catch up on our May 2023 issue here.
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