After an initial dip into the waters of high watchmaking back in 2021, Gucci is now out there making a splash in the pool’s deep end amidst the big boys’ presence. All eyes are still fixed on the new kid on the block, there will be a couple of strange stares or a comment or two, but you can count on Gucci to do what they do best — just being Gucci.
This year’s collection sees the House play astronomers, as the cosmos and heavenly bodies inspire the High Watchmaking 2023 collection. Gucci maps its ambitions amidst the stars, charting its course far and wide as their interpretation of time comes in ways that are very Gucci.
Gucci G-Timeless Planetarium
Have the planets pulse with life and dance to the rhythms of your universe as Gucci’s vision of a planetarium exudes sparkle and audacity. Through kinetics and a touch of imagination, the G-Timeless Planetarium is a marvel to behold. At the heart of the timepiece, the central flying tourbillon trudges effortlessly. A pair of watch hands extend from the tourbillon cage, appearing invisible at times. 12 precious gemstones, including rubies, fire opals, pink tourmaline and mandarin garnet, line the dial periphery with one final trick up their sleeves. The stones come to life at the touch of a button in the crown, orbiting around the flying tourbillon while each rotates on its axis. The show is controlled by the Gucci GGC.1976.DS calibre set in an 18k pink gold case.
Three other variants were created, two in 18k white gold green peridots, blue topazes, purple amethysts and Ethiopian opals or with Ethiopian opals and the other in 18k yellow gold case with gold star embellishments set with diamonds.
Gucci G-Timeless Moonlight
Immortalise your birthright among the cosmos as the new customisable G-Timeless Moonlight celebrates your beginnings in the universe. While this is not exactly a piece unique, it shares a similar narration as the decorations are centred around your natal map. Gucci taps into your exact date, time, and birth location to create a snapshot of the sky at the precise moment of your arrival. Presented inside an 18k white gold case are six natural gemstones on the dial’s moveable rehaut to represent the zodiac signs of your life alongside six diamonds, customisable characters print, and a birthstone cabochon set crown.
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A blue aventurine glass and mother-of-pearl dial serve as the moonphase indicator’s foundations—the moon’s phases are read from the hand-depicted moon. Flipping the watch around reveals the final writings in the stars with your constellation and birth coordinates presented on the oscillating weight.
Gucci G-Timeless Dancing Bees
The signature bee motif of Gucci is presented in the G-Timeless Dancing Bees. In true Gucci-esque fashion, the whimsical nature of the watch reminds one of the joys of life and watchmaking. Two new stone dials join the expanding collection, the first in pistachio green opal dial and the other an intense turquoise dial. The former is panelled and arranged in a chevron-style manner as an ode to the grasslands of Earth. 12 18k gold bees are set on the dial, performing their bee dance for all to marvel. The slightest hint of motion sees the bees quiver or, at times, rotate if the wearer breaks into a dance. At the top of the dial is the crowning glory of the G-Timeless Dancing Bees, a diamond-set, crescent-style tourbillon. The gem-setting display does not end there, as the bezel and crown of the 18k pink gold case are encrusted with diamonds.
Gucci 25H
A skeletonised tourbillon seems to be one of the de rigueur of high watchmaking demonstrations, and Gucci’s take on the complication does not disappoint. The bold and modern interpretation of the watch, the Gucci 25H, mimics that of futuristic space crafts. Hollowed out expertly to the bare minimum, the essential inner works are retained to govern the gravity-defying flying tourbillon and time-telling functions.
Six versions of the Gucci 25H are created, two with diamond-set bezels, chapter rings and bridges, while the other quartet features coloured bridges inspired by the rich hues of the moon’s geological map.
After you’re done with this article about Gucci High Watchmaking, click here to catch up with the Men’s Folio April ’23 issue.
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