Givenchy’s creative director, Matthew M. Williams, presents a range of versatile styles that challenge traditional archetypes while paying homage to the fashion house’s heritage.
Timelessness has become the norm of late in curating a wardrobe that will surpass trends, but some crave for more than minimal. While there is a longing for the classics, there is also an desire for an added flair to simplicity. There is niche group of individuals out there yearn to enhance the everyday staples with some refinement — and Givenchy’s creative director, Matthew M. Williams, fulfills just that.
The fully tatted American designer finds inspiration in the French brand’s rich history in Givenchy’s Spring 2024 collection, building the brand with his American sensibilities paired with a Parisian heritage. In standouts like the classic white blazer, there is a semblance of the fashion house’s founder, Hubert de Givenchy — but in the contemporary era, Williams redefines what the Givenchy Gentleman looks like, in which he is a man that bears sophistication while emanates an edge.
While there is a lack of novelty this season, play is evident in a fusion of utilitarian-goth elements with classic suiting. A khaki boiler suit and a workwear jacket in various fabrics such as gray marl, denim, or suiting fabric are paired with punk-inspired bondage pants adorned with zipped sections and removable straps. The age-old adage of “form meets function” is apt, and now meets the overlooked factor of mobility. His attention to detail reveals his understanding of adaptability. In a world captivated by viral fashion hacks which offer a chance to play and experiment with alternative methods of wearing clothes, some pieces like pants can be zipped apart to shorts — a nod to utilitarian wear.
Tailoring is met with functionality of the overcoat crafted from bonded suiting fabric. The sleek and stylish duffel, made from double-face cashmere is a way to carry elegance on a daily with utilitarian codes. Footwear also nods to Givenchy’s new elegance with a leather work boot in seasonal colors or a chunky-soled leather derby.
While upholding its formality, there is no escaping from Williams’ love for infusing grunge elements. Sleek looks are met with ruggedness, challenging the notion of what elegance truly means. Soiled jorts paired with a black blazer and in another, long black gloves complete a suit — an uncommon pairing. We are introduced to stone-washed denim that is gothed up with silver hardware details, demonstrating Givenchy’s unconventional definition of elegance in the 2020s. A new masculine is exerted, reinforcing the idea that polished man does not have to look like the conventional debonair male archetype — he can embrace multiple aesthetics simultaneously. Williams’ personality reflected at his tenure at Givenchy, while still channeling the traditional designs of the namesake founder.
The outfits may not be aspirational but are versatile, which still speaks to a younger audience. Its individual pieces can be mixed and matched to create a formal, street style, workwear, or smart causal look. While it could sound like a styling hazard, the concentrated colour palette of neutral, universally flattering shades of beige, off-white, charcoal, and subtle nuances of black, highlighted with warm tones of red and pink makes experimenting with different outfit combinations less intimidating.
In accessories, the men’s Voyou bags join the season’s lineup in classic and crossbody versions, while new iterations of the Essential U Backpack include an oversized leather backpack and two small sling backpacks in nylon or leather. The G-Zip and Pandora feature the Givenchy logo all-over, providing a modern and playful take on the House emblem.
Givenchy under Williams are for men who resonate with a slightly edgy appeal yet still feel the need for a safety net of classics — which cannot be easily found elsewhere. In this era of fashion where the creative director has to do more than oversee the creative vision of a brand, our yearning for novelty in clothing is only satisfied the delivery of a distinct sartorial experience while maintaining long-lasting appeal, which Williams is capable of.
The Givenchy pre-collection will be available online and in-store in early November. Once you’re done with this story on Givenchy’s Spring 2024 Collection, click here to catch up with the June/July 2023 issue of Men’s Folio Singapore.
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