Dior Men Wool and mohair turtleneck sweater, wool hand-painted bowler hat, silver-finish brass earrings, glass and sterling silver brooch
Guided by the inquisitive techniques of couture and a continuing interest involving artists, the prismatic world of Dior Men Winter ’21 places the audience in the passenger seat of the art making process to experience a whole new level of professional polish.
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Kim Jones has previously wrestled with the fragile alchemy of the contemporary peacock-effect for menswear during his tenure at Dior Men. For the eleventh collection with the French Maison, the stretching of limitations through reinterpretations appear to have finally been set right. Where there is any room to explore more, the artistic director will not hesitate to do so. Each collection presents itself as a contemplation of fashion’s ability to illuminate just as bright for menswear as it could for womenswear.
(From left) Dior Men Wool double-breasted coat, silk satin kaftan shirt, wool-blend turtleneck sweater, wool twill pants, Peter Doig wool hand-painted beret Dior Men Wool Polyester-blend jacket, nylon-blend jumpsuit, Peter Doig wool hand-painted beret, Saddle leather crossbody bag, silver-finish brass earrings, silver-finish brass ring Dior Men Wool and mohair jacket, silk shirt, wool rib turtleneck sweater, wool and mohair pants, Peter Doig wool hand-painted beret, Nano Saddle leather crossbody bag, glass and sterling silver earrings
Across Jones’s previous collections, the invitation of an artist to contextualise a collection with the use of couture techniques often forms an unlikely transfiguration into intensification, never before seen elsewhere. The Dior Men Winter ’21 collection deploys the same successful sequence of inviting, shedding, weaving and ceremonially rebirthing. Opening with a military-influenced glittering embroidered coat, the tether of two worlds becomes clear again. One reflects the House’s couture-rich past, while the other sees forms inspired by the established artistic history of Europe.
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As bold as that worldview demands, Jones is often inspired by the finer details. Uniforms with embroidery across the collection were notably inspired by the ceremonial tail-coated attire required by artists in France at the Academie des Beaux-Arts in Paris. The covered buttons from the iconic Bar jacket have made their way into the collection as an adaptation, as well as the gilded embroidery of an Haute Couture evening gown designed by the revered Marc Bohan in the 1960s.
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Dior Men Silk coat, wool twill jacket, wool knit beanie hat, silver-finish brass earrings
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At the collection’s molten centre is the collaborative results of Scottish-born painter Peter Doig — Jones’s contemporary artist collaborator of the season. The new motifs of the season are derived from his past work. The blend of green, brown and yellow sweaters, and the crocheted white skullcap worn by two of the three figures in Doig’s past work — ”Two Trees” — are re-rendered in the collection. A selection of hand-made wool felt hats by Stephen Jones illustrates the wearability of the collection and its surreal source material. This passion for the arts is evident in the House’s long history.
Looking at Winter ’21 can feel — at times — like putting together all of one’s favourite Dior Men collections by Kim Jones at once. Contemporary, illuminating and gender-nonconforming — that is the steady promise of Jones’s work. The collection’s constant message is also one of emotional, art-established intimacy that might rub off on the wearer. Limitless as it presents, the familiarly-refreshed collection invites everyone to the world of art.
Photography: Alfredo Piola backstage at Dior Men Winter ’21
This story of the Dior Men’s Winter ’21 collection first appeared in our September 2021 issue. Grab a copy here!
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