Harder, better, faster, and stronger but without the sensitivity, a new generation of chemical exfoliants smoothens and softens in tandem.
Unlike the persnickety trends that come with fashion, cosmetic trends either die a definite death or evolve with the times. Manual exfoliation — dated from the 1600s when the Egyptians used sea salt to the early noughts with walnut shell powder — has almost gone the way of the dodo but in turn, has led to the rise of chemical exfoliants. Before we introduce the now, however, we have to talk about the old.
The Dr.Dennis Gross Alpha Beta Ultra Gentle Daily Peel has a calibrated formula of three AHAs and BHAs that instantly transform the skin with just one usage.
Chemical exfoliants have always been around since it was first used by the Egyptians (lactic acid derived from milk) but it was in the early 1900s when German dermatologist Paul Gerson Umar invented the first chemical peel using phenols. On paper and within a historical context, it worked quickly to buff away dead skin cells but it was within a time when cosmeceutical laws were lax. To put it this way, the people of the era were possibly chemically nuking their skin.
Pictured above: The Clinique Smart Clinical Repair™ Wrinkle Correcting Serum smoothes the skin with a potent level of retinoid but hydrates too with hyaluronic acid.
According to Doctor Rachel Ho, Medical Director of La Clinic, chemical exfoliants continue to trend because of their efficacy and efficiency (her favourites include Drunk Elephant’s TLC Framboos Glycolic Night Serum and Caudalie’s Vinopure Blemish Control Infusion serum).
The Alpha-H Liquid Gold Midnight Reboot Serum contains 14% glycolic acid, 1% GranActive Retinoid and collagen boosting Tripeptide-5.
Some of the effects of damaged skin barrier include mild dryness and irritation at its least severe to more severe symptoms such as hypersensitivity, redness, and flaking.” “Brands can either use gentler exfoliants (e.g PHAs), lower concentrations (for example, L’oreal’s glycolic acid range contains 1% acid), or include other active ingredients that repair the skin barrier and reduce inflammation. For example, Vichy’s LifActiv serum contains glycolic acid and niacinamide.”
The Pixi Overnight Glow Serum also contains calming cucumber, aloe vera extracts and vitamins A, C and E to rebalance and soothe overnight.
It is needless to say that the products here provide more than just a visible shift in surface-level texture while soothing any sensitivity but as per any product newly introduced to one’s routine, the rule of thumb is simple: make sure one’s skin is healthy enough regardless of its chemical percentage (“The most visible visual clue- is that the skin looks and feels normal), do not ignore even the smallest signs of sensitivity (“any dryness or hypersensitivity may be intensified if users have a disrupted skin barrier and use acids”) and most importantly, start slow.
The Tatcha The Texture Tonic visibly evens the skin tone and texture but without the fuss: no sensitisation or angry redness.
Doctor Ho recommends starting at low concentrations such as just one percent and of course because we are programmed to seek instant gratification, “safely escalate to using stronger acids or higher concentrations if you don’t experience any side effects.”
The products featured in this story does not construe Doctor Ho’s endorsement or approval (unless specifically mentioned by her in the interview) and was selected based on editorial discretion.
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