A Serum Line That Has 5,040 Permutations? IRÉN Shizen Is the One to Crack the Code - Men's Folio
Grooming, Skincare

A Serum Line That Has 5,040 Permutations? IRÉN Shizen Is the One to Crack the Code

  • By Bryan Goh

IRÉN Shizen
In 2018, my then-beauty editor left a skincare device on my table with a sympathetic sigh after I ranted to her about my “lack of time” to do a proper routine. It was the IRÉN Skin Vaporiser, a device that split skincare into nano-sized particles and next, into a fine mist that aided complete absorption. What a game-changer it was that I routinely still mourn its loss after being pick-pocketed in Paris.

While it is sadly no longer available on the brand’s site, Eric Tan, the CEO of Ikeda Group and founder of IRÉN’s next move proves even smarter. This move is called the IRÉN Shizen line which features seven serums (as mentioned…5,040 permutations of use!) and two oils that features BIYUSEN™, an ingredient derived from a plant-based moor hot spring in Hokkaido.

But let’s do the math for you again: despite each targeting a different concern from acne to wrinkles, they also each are infused with hydration-boosting fulvic acid, humic acid which slows down wrinkle production, and texture-eradicating hyametomelanic acid. So technically, you are combating four skin concerns with the use of just one product which might allow you to skip two steps. One and done!

Here, Tan takes through how incredibly non-sensitising the IRÉN Shizen line is, what you should look out for in a serum, and a trick to ensure you’re reaping maximum benefits from one.

Hello Eric! If you could pitch the IRÉN Shizen line in 10 words or less, what would you say?
Designed in Singapore, made in Japan, tailored to your skin.

 

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As the product managed to calm your wife’s eczema and brought her relief, would you say that it’s non-sensitising? Which is to say a patch test is not needed?
It’s true, I was inspired by my wife’s journey with eczema and her need for effective skincare solutions. I’ve seen firsthand the relief it brought her, and it warms my heart to hear similar stories from many of our customers who also have sensitive skin.

It really reinforces our commitment to clean beauty and the high standards we hold ourselves to. I made a decision early on to ban over 2000 toxic, allergenic, and comedogenic ingredients (including silicone, drying alcohol, mineral oils, fragrance, etc.) in our products because I believe in creating something safe yet effective.

When you combine that with the renowned quality of Japanese craftsmanship, you get products that are truly exceptional. The fact that all our formulations are dermatologist-tested further underscores this commitment.

But here’s what sets us apart —we understand that everyone has unique skin needs. That’s why tailored skincare solutions are so important to me. While many people find our products gentle and effective due to our strict ingredient standards, individual reactions can still vary.

IRÉN Shizen
For example, let’s talk about one of our popular serums —GLOW-GETTER Renewal Serum, which contains glycolic acid (a type of AHAs). This ingredient is clinically tested at around 5% concentration, which makes it great for tackling acne and clogged pores but might be too harsh for hyper-sensitive skin types.

That’s where personalized care comes into play. We always recommend doing a patch test before introducing any new product into your routine as an extra precautionary step aligned with our ethos of understanding and respecting each person’s unique skin needs.

I’m immensely proud of the efficacy and integrity of IREN Shizen, but I also believe in empowering our users with the knowledge and tools to ensure they have the best experience possible.


Why specifically serums and oils for IRÉN Shizen? Does BIYUSEN deliver the actives better when it’s in a serum and oil form? Or do you think Singaporeans just generally love these product categories?
Our patented Encapsulated BIYUSEN technology is an advanced skincare delivery system we co-developed with A*STAR and it works by timely unlocking each ingredient’s actives, discharging them 10 times faster and deeper into skin cells. Each encapsulated active ingredient has a time-release effect, allowing for higher concentrations without harming the skin.

The nutrients are slowly released into the deeper layers of the skin, delivering long-lasting effects that can be observed for up to 72 hours.

The reason why we chose to start with serums and oils is because the encapsulation systems work very differently in these two forms due to their different compositions. Our seven custom serums are water-based, allowing them to carry hydrophilic (water-loving) actives, whereas probiotic facial oils are lipid-based, making them suitable for lipophilic (oil-loving) actives.

The complexity of having one system to work in both forms is incredibly challenging. I’m proud of my team to finally crack the code after spending more than two years in fine-tuning the technology.

If it can work flawlessly in serums and oils, we can easily transfer this know-how to other products easily.

Is it possible to mix as many IRÉN Shizen serums as you want in one use?
Our customised serums are designed to do just that, in order to cater to different skin conditions. We have created a range of seven serums with specific functions, allowing you to personalize your skincare routine based on your unique needs. You can mix up to three serums at once and use them together in a single step. This means you get the benefit of not just one but multiple targeted combinations.

During our research, we found that it is almost impossible to have a single miracle formulation that works for all skins. Every skin condition requires its very own blend of actives that target the root cause. In the world of skincare science, not all actives play well together when mixed. That’s why we developed an innovative encapsulation technology where each active ingredient is coated with a protective layer until it enters your skin.

This ensures maximum effectiveness by preventing any possibility of certain ingredients neutralizing each other during mixing.

How do you know that an IRÉN Shizen serum is truly absorbed into the skin instead of air drying on the surface? What is the most immediate sign of it working?
A well-formulated serum should not leave a sticky or greasy residue once applied. If it’s absorbed, the skin should feel soft, possibly plumper, but not coated. If the serum merely air dries on the surface, you might feel a film-like layer on the skin.

IRÉN Shizen
Different serums have different immediate effects depending on what they’re designed for. Take our QUENCH-UP Hydrating Serum, for example. Instantly, your skin plumps up and softens right before your eyes. And if you’re using our KEEP CALM Soothing Serum to target redness or inflammation, you’ll notice a rapid soothing action and visible reduction in redness.

But here’s the thing: some effects take time to fully reveal themselves while consistently using these serums. Think collagen production boost or hyperpigmentation reduction—those results need patience and commitment.

Do you think the potency of the serums makes solely using them an effective skincare routine?
I’ve always believed in launching serums first because I think they have the power to deliver potent actives more effectively than other product types. But whether or not a serum can replace emulsions and moisturizers depends on different factors, like your skin type, the climate you’re in, and what outcomes you want for your skin.


If you have combination skin like me, I’ve found that mixing QUENCH-UP Hydrating Serum and SKIN REBOOT Anti-oxidant Serum can give you all the hydration and nutrients your skin needs without weighing it down with a heavy moisturizer. On the other hand, if you’re dealing with dry or mature skin, you will still need a good moisturizer to lock in hydration and stop any water loss from happening.

In a humid climate like Singapore, my skin doesn’t need such a heavy moisturiser. A serum usually does the trick for me. But when I find myself in dry or cold climates like Europe, it’s crucial for me to use a moisturizer with occlusive properties. It helps prevent moisture loss and keeps my skin hydrated throughout the day.

IRÉN Shizen
If your primary goal is to deliver specific actives that address concerns like hyperpigmentation, fine lines, or acne, then you should focus on a targeted serum, like our FOREVER YOUNG Anti-aging Serum. However, if your goal is overall skin hydration, barrier repair, or protection, then emulsions and moisturizers play a vital role.

In conclusion, I believe that serums are truly powerful and can be the foundation of a great skincare routine. I’ve witnessed how some people like me can get away with using just 2-3 serums in their routine because their skin thrives on it. But for others, having a more comprehensive approach is necessary to meet all our unique skin needs.

As we navigate through our skincare journey together, one thing becomes clear: listening to your own skin is crucial. It’s important for each of us to pay attention and adjust our routines accordingly – whether it means incorporating moisturizers or exploring different types of products altogether.

I always believe that taking care of your precious skin involves finding what works best for you personally!

Is there a “trick” to getting the best results from the IRÉN Shizen serums and oils? For example, using the oil as a carrier for products containing actives which cause sensitivity.
Absolutely! When it comes to skincare, the way I apply my products is key to their effectiveness. Let’s talk about serums and oils.

I’m sure you’ve heard the saying “thinnest to thickest” when it comes to product application. This means starting with lightweight serums and gradually layering on thicker creams and facial oils. Why? It all has to do with molecular size. Serums and lotions have smaller molecules, so they can penetrate deeper into your skin. By applying them first, we’re allowing them to work their magic before sealing everything in with moisturizers and oils.

Speaking of moisturizers, they’re mostly water-based and contain ingredients like humectants, emollients, and occlusives. These components help draw moisture into our skin and create a barrier to prevent water loss. However, they can still allow some water evaporation.

 

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That’s where facial oils come into play. They have larger molecules that sit on top of my moisturizer, creating an extra layer of defence against dryness and dehydration. They lock in all the hydrating goodness from previous steps while preventing further moisture loss.

But here’s an extra tip: if you’re using powerful ingredients like retinol or acids that can cause sensitivity, mixing them with facial oil can be a game-changer. The oil helps dilute their strength, making them gentler on your skin, especially if you’re new to these actives or have sensitive skin. As time goes on and your skin builds tolerance, you can decrease the amount of oil or even apply the active directly.

Remember, finding the right order for your skincare routine takes some experimentation. But by understanding how different products interact with each other, you’ll be well-equipped to achieve healthy, glowing skin.

Lastly, what is next for the IKEDA Group? What new novelties can we expect?
We are thrilled to announce that we are currently in the process of developing and perfecting the second version of our incredibly popular enzyme powder cleanser. The response to our first version was overwhelming (currently sold out), with customers raving about its effectiveness and gentle nature on their skin. But now, we have taken it to the next level.

Our team of chemists and dermatologists have worked tirelessly to create a formula that is not only more effective but also even more moisturizing than ever before. You can now enjoy the benefits of using our enzyme powder cleanser on a daily basis, without worrying about your skin becoming dry or irritated.

We will soon be launching our game-changing day and night moisturizer by the end of this year. These products combine texture-changing “quick-break” technology with our proprietary bio-ingredient derived from a plant-based moor hot spring in Hokkaido. Our unique quick-break technology ensures that the moisturiser changes from cream to water or oil upon application, delivering targeted nourishment to different parts of your face.

Both also contain our star ingredient—sourced from a plant-based moor hot spring in Hokkaido, also known as the one and only beauty onsen in Japan. This exclusive bio-ingredient is packed with three different organic acids that will work wonders for your skin, promoting a healthy and mochi-like complexion.

Once you’re done with this story about IRÉN Shizen, click here to catch up with our September 2023 issue!