We like complications. Not difficulties, but watchmaking functions that go beyond basic time-telling. And yes, these watches here are complex to make and speak of absolute ingenuity.
A. Lange & Söhne Minute Repeater Perpetual
A. Lange & Söhne unites the holy grail duo of the minute repeater and perpetual calendar in a showcase of supreme technical prowess and pedigree. Of the 640 individual components in the Lange manufacture calibre L122.2, 194 come alive during the melodious chiming rendition of the hours, quarters and minutes. Given the delicate nature of the chiming mechanism, the Saxon watchmaker implemented safety systems to omit operational errors — the minute repeater cannot be activated when the crown is pulled out, and when the chiming mechanism is active, the crown cannot be pulled out. Laid out harmoniously across the enamel dial are the perpetual calendar displays, including the outsize date in characteristic fashion, day-of-week, 24-hour display, month, leap-year indication, and moonphase surrounded by more than 100 hand-engraved stars. This masterpiece is limited to 50 pieces and is presented in a 40.5mm platinum case.
Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Ultra Toubillon
Bvlgari added another record to its quiver — its 10th, specifically — with the Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon. Despite the tourbillon, the watch measures just 1.85mm thick, thanks to engineering and design choices like using the case back as the base plate, and a flat crown instead of a cylindrical one. The result? Pushing the envelope of complications just that tiny bit further, as Bvlgari always does.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Minute Repeater
Jaeger-LeCoultre has presented us with a host of treats for 2025, and the Reverso Tribute Minute Repeater takes centre stage this year, especially when it comes to complicated builds. To start, a new in-house movement is always something to be excited about, and the Calibre 953 builds upon the maison’s technical know-how. Seven patents make this new movement, one of which is the dead-time ratchet, which eliminates the silent moments between the hours and minutes that can happen when there are no quarter hours to chime. Other innovations include the trebuchet hammer, which reduces energy consumption, and the crystal gongs that enhance the sound. One can only try to put this picture into words, but no description can do it justice, as it takes actual listening to appreciate the work and art that has gone into creating this musical timepiece. The opportunity to do this might be limited, however, as this is a limited edition timepiece of only 30 pieces.
Vacheron Constantin Traditionelle Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar
Vacheron Constantin’s timepieces always garner attention, but there is extra reason for the buzz surrounding the Traditionnelle Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar, and that is the new manufacture Calibre 2162 QP/270 movement. The two complications make for a good pairing — because it is better to have added accuracy for a perpetual calendar, after all — but what is more impressive is that despite this combination, the watch case measures only 11.1mm thick. As an added detail of elegance, one only needs to look at the caseback and find its peripheral oscillating weight, a design choice that adds to the marvel of this 127 limited edition timepiece.
Hermès Cut Le Temps Suspendu
Knowing the time is always useful, as it allows you to set business appointments, for example. However, Hermès challenges us to see time differently. Although the “Time suspended” complication is not new, and it may seem simple, a lot of intricacies go behind moving the hands into a V shape surrounding the 12 o’clock numeral at the push of a button, all while keeping track of the actual time in the background. As an added trivia, the hands reside at a position of a time that does not exist — the hour hand right before 12 o’clock and the minutes hand right after, adding to the illusion of suspended time.
Grand Seiko Evolution 9 SLGB003
Grand Seiko sets a new benchmark in timekeeping with the Grand Seiko Evolution 9 SLGB003 and its groundbreaking Spring Drive Calibre 9RB2. With an astonishing accuracy of ±20 seconds per year, it is the most precise mainspring-powered watch ever made. A new regulation switch, an aged quartz oscillator, and vacuum-sealed components all contribute to this feat. Housed in High-Intensity Titanium and sized at 37mm, the SLGB003 features an intricately textured shimmering dial inspired by the frost-covered trees of the Kirigamine Highlands. Together, the watch fuses high performance and refined aesthetics and continues Grand Seiko’s legacy of innovation and craftsmanship.
Once you are done with this story, click here to catch up with our September 2025 issue.