In the ever-changing ebb and flow of trends, vintage watches are finally enjoying their moment amidst mainstream consumption thanks to their timeless allure. The saying “old is gold” never sounded more apt, especially in this once-niche realm of watches. If you were to say you enjoyed vintage watches 10 years ago, you would have probably watched John Goldberger’s Talking Watches episode. You would also have gotten a few weird stares along the way. Today, the thought of owning or buying a vintage watch does not faze anyone.
Credit: Man Of Many
Similar to vintage cars or furniture, vintage watches are loved for their unique aesthetic appeal. A watch with a kiss of patina warmth is the equivalent of, say, a pair of well-faded Levi’s 501s or a well-travelled Land Rover. Beyond aesthetics, these watches might have a connection to historical events (a watch made for NASA astronauts) or even provenance (a famous person’s personal artefact). All of these inadvertently contribute to the potential for investment, but this is a topic for another day.
Credit: Ape To Gentleman
Everyone’s exposure to vintage watches is different. What was considered an older folk’s hobby has garnered serious interest among younger generations. Some may inherit them as heirloom pieces, some might see them in vitrines while thrift shopping in Tokyo or simply through a screen on TikTok. Regardless of which category you belong to, there is no doubting the romantic intrigue of vintage watches. For those who are ready to make their dive into this realm, here are some factors to consider before buying your first vintage watch.
Do Your Due Diligence
Just like buying a property, car, luxury bag or even stocks, it is important to do your due diligence, especially in a category where counterfeiting can be rampant. Part of your research should include the watch serial numbers that match production years, bracelets that match cases and period-accurate designs such as “sigma dial” or “dot over 90”. Going in blind without prior research is a surefire way to get your hands burnt, and avoid it if the deal feels too good to be true.
Buy the Seller
Always prioritise who you are buying from. An eBay listing from Watchd00d67 is definitely more dodgy and sceptical than, say, one listed on Eric Ku’s Loupe This. Established sellers or auction houses might command a slight premium for their reputation and community standing, but it is worth the extra outlay for buyer’s protection and peace of mind. Then again, always go back to the first point, do your due diligence, because some things do fall through the cracks.
Know Your Condition
A watch’s condition is one of the most important factors that influences a watch’s desirability and value, so look for one with all original dial, hands, bezel, bracelets, etc intact. One telltale sign of replaced or aftermarket components is examining for consistent ageing throughout the watch, such as an even patina on the dial and watch hands.
Credit: Tropical Watch
Some of the most commonly seen condition descriptors are NOS (new old stock), mint, used, as is, or unpolished (some collectors might geek out over this). For watches with bracelets, inspect if they are overly stretched and if the closure clasps are working fine and not loose.
Servicing and Maintenance History
Vintage watches need more TLC than your modern-day watches. Cracked crystals, dried-up movement oils, damaged protective rubber gaskets, or weakened winding stems are inevitable signs of wear and tear. Buying a recently serviced watch will alleviate certain concerns, but do factor in servicing charges in the long run, too, as watches that require specialised parts will rack up a larger bill.
Box and Papers
Credit: Loupe This
This is pretty self-explanatory; it means if the watch is accompanied by its original box, accessories (if any) and all associated documentation, which does influence the watch’s selling price. Some people pay attention to this factor, others do not, so it really boils down to your preference.
Provenance and Uniqueness
Provenance is one of the most interesting and exciting factors of vintage watches. Imagine buying a watch worn by a famous rockstar, on a space mission, or someone who resonates with you. These watches suddenly become less of a time-telling tool and more of an important piece of history. On the flip side, there are instances of specially bespoke watches that have surfaced on the secondary market.
Credit: Phillips, F1 legend Jean-Pierre Jabouille’s watch awarded to him by Renault after his 1979 French Grand Prix victory, listed on Phillips
These are usually outside of catalogue offerings and tend to be rarer than most watches. These include military commissioned watches with unit insignias, special casebacks, or a watch reference with a never-before-used case material. Some descriptors you will come across for such listing could be “unusual” or “possibly unique”, given the inaccessibility to production or incomplete or lost archive records. These kinds of watches will attract more interest, and you should expect to pay a larger premium.
This is by no means a complete list, but a good starting point, as there are many other factors to consider. Most importantly, have fun and enjoy the hunt.
Feature image credit: Steel City Vintage Watches
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